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Most owners never write down what should happen to a pet if they are taken into hospital, move into care or die. Charities in the UK run free schemes for exactly this, and they also publish guidance for people who have decided they can no longer keep an animal. This guide summarises what Cats Protection and Dogs Trust say about their services, and what owners are legally responsible for in England and Wales. It is general information; a solicitor can advise on wording a Will.

Why a plan matters

Under section 3 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, a person who owns an animal is always regarded as responsible for it, and the section is marked on legislation.gov.uk as applying to England and Wales. That stays true even when someone else is looking after the animal, so a named person and written instructions make a difference. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own animal welfare legislation, although the two charity schemes described below operate across the UK.

Cat Guardians from Cats Protection

Cats Protection describes Cat Guardians as a free service. An owner registers in advance, and once the charity is told that the owner has died, it arranges for the cat or cats to come into the care of a nearby branch or centre. Staff and volunteers then look after them while trying to find a home that suits each cat’s personality and needs. Cats Protection states that it never puts a healthy cat to sleep and will care for a cat for as long as it takes to find a new home.

The registration form gives the charity useful details such as the food the cat likes, which its own case study says helped staff settle a cat whose owner had died. Cats Protection also notes that many people who register choose to remember the charity in their Will, but registering does not depend on that.

The Dogs Trust Canine Care Card

Dogs Trust says that if a Canine Care Card holder becomes seriously ill or dies, it will look after the dog and find them a home. The process it describes has four steps: a short online application, a follow-up email asking about the dog and the owner’s wishes, receipt of a card to keep in a wallet or purse, and a line in the owner’s Will. Its suggested wording is “It is also my wish that Dogs Trust cares for and rehomes my dog at the time of my death”.

Some practical points from the Dogs Trust page:

• A Dog Guardian, such as a neighbour or relative, is named on the application. The guardian tells Dogs Trust, and is responsible for arranging interim care until the dog can come into one of its rehoming centres.
• Each dog is assessed by qualified behaviourists, and Dogs Trust says it never puts down a healthy dog.
• Dogs Trust says it cannot activate a card for a dog showing extreme aggression, one categorised as an index dog or otherwise restricted under the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991, or one living overseas.
• Card holders are asked to keep microchip details, vaccination information and the guardian’s details up to date, and to tell the charity if they get another dog or if their dog dies.
• The charity says it does not have facilities for other species, and suggests contacting other animal welfare charities for a similar service.

If you are thinking of giving up a pet

Cats Protection’s guidance on giving up a cat begins by asking owners to consider whether the reason can be resolved. It points, for example, to charity help with neutering costs, vet payment plans, and support from PDSA or Blue Cross where bills are a worry. It says a change in behaviour is worth discussing with a vet before any decision, and it says tenants in England now have a right to request a pet that cannot be unreasonably refused under the Renters’ Rights Act. For more on that, see the guide to renting with a pet in England.

Where rehoming is the right decision, Cats Protection sets out these steps:

1. Plan early, because there can be waiting lists for space.
2. Contact the local branch, which arranges a time to bring the cat to a centre or a volunteer fosterer. Charity shops cannot help with rehoming.
3. Complete a questionnaire about the cat’s history, diet and needs.
4. Bring the cat in a suitable carrier, ideally with familiar toys or blankets.

The charity asks owners not to abandon a cat or advertise one for free online, saying this can be dangerous for the animal, and to tell the local branch if the situation is urgent. It also runs a free, confidential temporary fostering service called Lifeline for people leaving domestic abuse, as a short-term option.

The guide to adopting a rescue dog or cat explains what the process looks like from the adopter’s side.

Frequently asked questions

Do these services replace a Will?

No. Dogs Trust asks card holders to confirm their wishes in their Will and suggests specific wording. Cats Protection describes Cat Guardians as a registration service and says many registrants also leave a gift in their Will, which is optional.

The bottom line

An owner is always regarded as responsible for a pet in England and Wales, so a written plan is worth having. Cats Protection’s Cat Guardians and Dogs Trust’s Canine Care Card are free schemes that provide one for cats and dogs, though each has limits. For cat owners considering giving up a pet, Cats Protection recommends looking for practical help first and then rehoming through a charity rather than an online giveaway.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “How does the Cat Guardians service work?”
• Cats Protection, “Thinking about giving up a cat”
• Dogs Trust, “Canine Care Card”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 3: Responsibility for animals”

A few hens in the back garden are treated as pets by many owners, but in England and Wales the law treats them as kept birds. Registration is compulsory, records must be kept up to date, and sensible hygiene routines are set out in official guidance. This guide summarises what GOV.UK says for England and Wales, with notes on where Scotland and Northern Ireland differ. It is general information, not legal advice, and a vet can advise on the health of individual birds.

Do pet chickens have to be registered?

GOV.UK’s guidance for keepers of fewer than 50 birds says a person must register within one month of keeping poultry or other captive birds at any premises in England or Wales, and that failing to register is breaking the law. The guidance covers up to 49 birds, “including any you keep as pets”. The requirement is set out in the Exotic Disease (Amendment) (England) Order 2024 and the Avian Influenza (Preventive Measures) (Wales) (Amendment) Regulations 2024.

Keepers with a County Parish Holding (CPH) number can register by form or email. Those without one can register online, which GOV.UK says should take about 10 minutes. The page is marked as applying to England and Wales and links to separate guidance for Scotland, so a Scottish keeper should follow that guidance rather than this article.

Which birds are exempt?

Budgies, parrots, cockatiels, canaries and finches do not need to be registered if they are fully housed in a dwelling with no access to the open air. GOV.UK adds that registration is required if such birds are taken outdoors at any time, for example to exercise or train them. This is an exemption for indoor cage birds; chickens are poultry and fall within the general requirement.

Keeping the record up to date

After registering, keepers must confirm their details and their birds to the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) every 12 months. Changes must be reported within 30 days, including a new contact address, no longer keeping birds, a change in species or numbers, or a change in the main purpose for keeping them. The bird flu prevention guidance adds that the record should also be updated sooner if a flock grows or shrinks by 20% or more. Records can be updated online, by email to [email protected], or by phone on 03000 200 301.

GOV.UK explains the practical point of the register: APHA can contact registered keepers with updates and guidance if there is a disease outbreak such as bird flu in the area.

Biosecurity for a small garden flock

GOV.UK’s prevention guidance, which is marked as applying to England with separate pages for the other nations, names the main routes for bird flu as contact with wild birds (waterfowl such as geese, ducks, swans and gulls in particular), faeces from infected birds, and dirty footwear, clothing, vehicles and equipment. Its advice for keepers includes:

• keep feed, water and bedding in covered, enclosed areas that wild birds and rodents cannot reach;
• check the area around the housing daily and remove wild bird faeces, feathers and carcasses;
• fence or net outdoor areas and stop birds accessing standing water;
• keep ducks and geese away from other birds, because they may not show signs of bird flu;
• wear clean clothing and footwear when entering bird housing, and use a Defra-approved disinfectant when cleaning hard surfaces and equipment;
• control rats and mice, and limit and record visitors to the birds.

A separate GOV.UK page says that anyone who suspects bird flu in poultry or other captive birds must report it immediately, as it is a notifiable disease. In England the number is 03000 200 301, in Wales 03003 038 268, and in Scotland the local Field Services Office. Anything more specific about a sick bird is a matter for a vet.

Housing rules can change

When bird flu is circulating, the government can introduce housing measures that require birds to be kept indoors in defined areas. GOV.UK has published notices both introducing and lifting them, so keepers should check the current position for their area.

Selling spare eggs

Many small keepers end up with more eggs than they need. GOV.UK’s egg marketing guidance, marked as applying to England and Wales, says eggs need not be stamped with a producer code if they are sold directly to consumers for their own use from the keeper’s own farm or door to door locally. A keeper of fewer than 50 birds selling at a local public market also need not stamp them, but must display their name, address, a best-before date (a maximum of 28 days from the date of lay) and advice to keep the eggs chilled after purchase. The guidance says a keeper with 50 or more hens selling ungraded eggs at a local public market must register as an egg production site, as must one with 350 or more hens.

Selling food for human consumption may also involve food business registration with the local authority, which the local council can explain. For a wider picture of duties towards animals, see the guide to the Animal Welfare Act 2006 in England and Wales, which applies to chickens as it does to other pets.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to register two hens kept for eggs?

In England and Wales, GOV.UK says birds kept as pets are covered, and the guidance for smaller keepers sets no lower limit on flock size.

The bottom line

In England and Wales, pet hens are kept birds in law, so registration with APHA is compulsory whatever the flock size, and details must be confirmed every 12 months. Good biosecurity, checking local housing notices and knowing the rules on selling eggs are the other duties that come with even a small garden flock. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own guidance.

Sources

• GOV.UK, “Register as a keeper of less than 50 poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Register as a keeper of 50 or more poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Bird flu (avian influenza): how to prevent it and stop it spreading”
• GOV.UK, “Bird flu (avian influenza): how to spot and report it in poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Egg marketing standards”

The decision to get a dog is usually made with the fun parts in mind: sofa snuggles, long walks, a new family member. Dogs Trust, the UK’s largest rehoming charity, points out that there is much more to it, because a dog is a responsibility for life. Its guidance sets out ten questions to answer before getting a dog and separate advice on matching a dog to a household. This guide summarises both. It is general information about deciding whether and which dog, not advice on any individual animal.

Question 1: do you have the time?

Dogs Trust says a puppy needs a lot of commitment. A dog cannot be left for hours at a time, both because of toileting needs and because dogs are social creatures that need company. The charity asks whether an owner can be at home during the day, or organise a dog walker or day care for the days they cannot, and says leaving a dog alone must be built up slowly. Owners also need time for daily walks, training and games, because most dogs need lots of mental stimulation. The crate training and time alone guide looks at that side in more detail.

Questions 2 and 3: planning around a dog, and patience

The second question asks whether a person is happy to plan their time around a dog. Dogs Trust says this means no last-minute holidays or spur-of-the-moment day trips unless the dog comes along or is looked after, and that dogs generally love routine. The third asks about patience: a puppy is learning for the first time, while an older rescue dog may not have lived in a home for some time, and both need support with house training and time alone. The charity says patience and positivity are key to training.

Question 4: meeting all of a dog’s needs

The charity says a dog has needs that must be met every day, from morning walks in all weather to a suitable place to live with a bed and toys, mental enrichment as well as physical exercise, and an owner who learns to understand the dog. It lists the five welfare needs from the Animal Welfare Act (suitable environment, suitable diet, normal behaviour, company or separation as needed, and protection from pain, suffering, injury and disease). The Act’s duty applies in England and Wales; the Animal Welfare Act guide explains the legal position and the penalties precisely. Dogs Trust also says the first three or four months of a puppy’s life are a sensitive socialisation period, covered in the puppy socialisation guide.

Questions 5 and 6: long-term commitment and cost

A dog is for life, so Dogs Trust asks owners to consider future plans such as having children, moving house, changing jobs or moving abroad. Thinking ahead, it says, reduces the chance of having to rehome a dog. The sixth question is affordability. Whether a dog is bought or rescued, the purchase or adoption is only the first cost. Ongoing costs include bedding, toys, treats, food, grooming, insurance, expected and unexpected vet bills that may increase as a dog ages, possibly a trainer or behaviourist, and a dog walker or day care if that is the plan. The pet insurance guide explains how policies work.

Questions 7 to 9: motives, household and other pets

• Right reasons. A dog should never be an impulse purchase or a gift that may be discarded when the recipient gets bored. Dogs Trust suggests sponsoring a dog on someone’s behalf as an alternative present.
• A different pet, or a busy household. The charity asks whether a different pet might suit current circumstances better and stresses considering everyone in the home and regular visitors. Where children live in the home, it recommends close adult supervision at all times, which the children and dogs guide discusses.
• Current pets. If a household has a cat, the question is whether it gets on with dogs, and the charity notes that a cat that gets on with one dog will not necessarily get on with all dogs. Cats and dogs must be introduced in the right way.

Question 10: should you foster first?

Dogs Trust says fostering a dog first is worth considering, especially for anyone who has never had a dog of their own. It lets a person test whether they can commit to everything a dog involves while helping a rescue dog on the way to a permanent home. For people who conclude that now is not the right time, the charity suggests volunteering or sponsoring a dog as ways to help without adopting.

Matching a dog to a household

Dogs Trust’s advice on choosing starts from the point that every dog is an individual. Some dogs are active and outdoorsy, while others prefer a quieter home with few visitors. Finding a good match may take time.

Breed information can still help as a rough guide to how a dog might fit. Dogs Trust says its popular breed pages give a breed’s typical size, the environment it tends to live in comfortably, how much it tends to shed and its typical exercise needs, and that an outdoorsy person should think about which breeds might suit hiking. It also points to the Kennel Club for information on a wider range of breeds. The charity also advises being aware of common health issues and inherited diseases in the breeds under consideration. Adoption from a rescue is presented as an alternative to buying, and the rescue adoption guide and the guide to buying a puppy in England cover the two routes.

The bottom line

Dogs Trust’s ten questions cover time, routine, patience, daily needs, long-term plans, cost, motives, the rest of the household, other pets and fostering. If the answers are honest and positive, breed information and the individual dog’s personality can then guide the choice. If not, waiting, fostering, volunteering or sponsoring are all presented as good alternatives.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “Should I get a dog? 10 questions to ask yourself”
• Dogs Trust, “Which dog is right for me?”

In England, breeding dogs above a certain scale needs a council licence. The rules apply to England only. This guide draws on GOV.UK’s guidance and on the Animal Welfare (Licensing of Activities Involving Animals) (England) Regulations 2018, and it is general information rather than legal advice. Wales has its own 2021 licensing regulations.

When a licence is needed

GOV.UK says that in England a licence to breed dogs is needed by anyone who runs a business that breeds and advertises dogs for sale, or who breeds three or more litters in any 12-month period and sells any of the puppies. The application is made to the local council, which decides the cost and the length of the licence. A licence is valid for one, two or three years and must be renewed before it expires for breeding to continue.

What the council checks

GOV.UK says the council will arrange an inspection of the premises before granting a licence and may carry out additional inspections at any time afterwards. The applicant must prove that the licence conditions can be met, including showing that dogs are:

• kept in suitable accommodation;
• provided with adequate food, drink and bedding;
• exercised regularly;
• transported in safe and comfortable conditions;
• protected in case of an emergency such as a fire; and
• protected from pain, injury, suffering and disease.

The licence holder must also keep records ready for inspection, such as a register of dogs and puppies, display the licence number in any advertising, and display the licence clearly on the premises. A licence will not be granted to someone who has committed animal welfare offences or who has been banned from hiring out horses, selling pets, boarding cats or dogs, or keeping or training animals for exhibition.

Specific conditions for breeding dogs

Schedule 6 to the 2018 Regulations sets out the conditions particular to dog breeding. The main ones include:

• Advertising and sales. The licence holder may not advertise or offer for sale a dog they did not breed, and may not sell except from the premises where the dog was born and reared, other than to a person holding a specified licence. Any advertisement must include the licence number, the issuing local authority, a recognisable photograph of the dog and the dog’s age.
• Information for buyers. The purchaser must be told the age, sex and veterinary record of the dog being sold.
• Age and the mother. No puppy under 8 weeks may be sold or permanently separated from its biological mother, and a puppy may only be shown to a prospective buyer together with its mother. Exceptions apply where separation is necessary for the health or welfare of the puppy, its littermates or the mother.
• Space and environment. Each dog needs a draught-free sleeping area with constant access and an exercise area, part or all of it outdoors, and enough room to stand on its hind legs, lie stretched out, wag its tail, walk and turn round. Each breeding bitch needs a separate whelping area.
• Socialisation and exercise. The licence holder must implement and be able to demonstrate a documented socialisation and habituation programme for puppies, and adult dogs must generally be exercised at least twice daily away from their sleeping area.

Limits on breeding from a bitch

Schedule 6, paragraph 6 says the licence holder must ensure that no bitch is mated if she is aged under 12 months, gives birth to more than one litter in a 12-month period, gives birth to more than six litters in total, or is mated after two litters delivered by caesarean section. It also says no dog may be kept for breeding if it can reasonably be expected, from its genotype, phenotype or state of health, that breeding from it could harm its own health or welfare or that of its offspring.

Microchips and records

Each puppy must be microchipped and registered to the licence holder before it is sold. The licence holder must record each puppy sale, including the microchip number, the sale date and the age of the puppy on that date, and must keep birth records for each litter, including the date and time of birth and the number of puppies. The wider legal duties around chips are explained in the microchipping guide.

Penalties

GOV.UK says that breeding dogs without a licence can lead to imprisonment for up to 6 months or an unlimited fine, and that an unlimited fine can also follow breaking the conditions of a licence.

What buyers can take from the conditions

Because the conditions are public, they double as a checklist for anyone buying a puppy in England. A licensed breeder should be advertising with a licence number and the issuing council, should show the puppy with its mother, should not sell a puppy under 8 weeks, and should provide the puppy’s age, sex and veterinary record. The guide to buying a puppy or kitten in England explains how these checks fit with Lucy’s Law.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a licence for a single litter?

GOV.UK ties the requirement to running a breeding business or to three or more litters in 12 months with puppies sold. The local council can confirm.

The bottom line

In England, a dog breeding licence is needed for a breeding business or for three or more litters in 12 months with puppies sold, and the licence brings inspection, welfare standards, limits on how often a bitch can be bred, and rules on advertising, microchips and records. These conditions apply to England only.

Sources

• GOV.UK, “Dog breeding licence (England)”
• legislation.gov.uk, “The Animal Welfare (Licensing of Activities Involving Animals) (England) Regulations 2018, Schedule 6: Specific conditions: breeding dogs”

Rabbits are often sold with a bowl of colourful mix and a carrot in mind, yet the UK’s main rabbit welfare organisations describe a very different diet. The RSPCA, the PDSA and the Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund (RWAF) each publish feeding guidance, and their core message matches: a rabbit’s diet should be built mostly on hay or grass. This guide sets out what each says, where the figures differ, and how to change a diet safely. It is general information and not veterinary advice; a vet should be asked about any individual rabbit, particularly one that is not eating.

Why hay and grass come first

The RSPCA says a rabbit’s digestive system needs hay or grass to function properly and that teeth grow continuously, so the right food wears them down to the right size and shape. It warns that the wrong diet can cause serious dental disease. The PDSA says the best diet is one as close as possible to a wild rabbit’s, and lists dental disease and gut stasis among the problems the wrong food can lead to. The RWAF describes unlimited, good-quality hay as the foundation of a healthy diet, noting that it is high in fibre (at least 20 per cent) and low in fat, starch and sugar.

All three describe a rough split. The RSPCA and RWAF both give 85 per cent hay and fresh grass, 10 per cent leafy greens and herbs, and 5 per cent pellets. The PDSA also says around 85 per cent of the diet should be hay and/or grass.

How much hay

• The RSPCA advises at least one bundle of good-quality hay every day, “as big as they are”.
• The PDSA says ideally an unlimited amount, with a bundle at least as big as the rabbit per day as an absolute minimum.
• The RWAF says rabbits should have an unlimited supply and that good hay is dry, sweet-smelling and free from grit, dust and mould.

The PDSA distinguishes feeding hay from bedding hay. Both are dried grass, but feeding hay is fresher and greener with more nutrients, while bedding hay is drier and less suitable for nibbling. The RWAF adds that alfalfa is not a grass hay and is so rich it should only be a treat, and that products labelled “complete” foods are not a replacement for hay. Both the RSPCA and PDSA advise against feeding lawnmower clippings; the RSPCA says they can make rabbits ill.

Greens, herbs and vegetables

The RSPCA advises a large handful of safe, washed leafy greens, herbs and weeds each day, ideally five to six different types, with examples including spinach, celery, cabbage, kale, broccoli, rosemary, parsley, mint and dandelion leaves. The PDSA also says five to six different kinds of fresh plant, grass or vegetable a day give a good balance, and it suggests an adult-sized handful twice daily. New greens should be introduced gradually and in small amounts to avoid stomach upsets. The RSPCA warns that some plants are poisonous, naming bluebells, foxgloves, holly and tulips, and its rule is that if in doubt, leave it out. The pet-friendly gardens guide covers other garden hazards.

Pellets: where the guidance differs

All three treat pellets or nuggets as a small part of the diet, but they give different measures. The RSPCA advises a small, measured amount of good-quality pellets each day, following the manufacturer’s instructions, and says not to top up the bowl because rabbits may then eat too little hay or grass. The RWAF gives 15g per kilogram of bodyweight. The PDSA suggests one tablespoon of nuggets once daily, or twice daily for rabbits over 3.5kg. None is a rule of law, so the manufacturer’s label and a vet’s advice are the practical guide.

Treats and what to avoid

The RSPCA says fruit and root vegetables such as carrots and apples should be occasional treats in small amounts. It does not recommend muesli-style foods, which it says can lead to serious dental and digestive problems and excessive weight gain, and it describes muesli as a mix of items such as flaked maize, peas, pellets, grains and seeds. The PDSA also has a section on muesli-style mixes.

Changing a rabbit’s diet safely

Both the RSPCA and PDSA stress slow change, since a sudden switch can upset a rabbit’s digestive system. The RSPCA advises moving a rabbit off muesli gradually over several weeks by mixing pellets with the muesli, reducing the muesli and increasing the pellets until the muesli is gone. It recommends monitoring the rabbits at least twice daily during the change to check that they are eating plenty of hay and leafy greens and enough pellets, and taking them to a vet immediately if they are not eating enough. A rabbit that is reluctant to eat hay should be checked by a vet, because dental disease can make chewing uncomfortable; if the vet finds no problem, the RSPCA suggests trying a different type or supplier of hay.

Water

The RSPCA and PDSA both call for constant access to fresh, clean water. The RSPCA says rabbits tend to prefer a heavy ceramic bowl but can use drip-feed bottles, which should be checked daily for blockages. It advises cleaning water containers every day and changing the water twice a day. The rabbit housing guide explains the wider set-up, and the beginner’s guide to pet rabbits covers general care.

Frequently asked questions

Are carrots a staple food?

No. The RSPCA says root vegetables such as carrots should only be occasional treats.

The bottom line

The RSPCA, PDSA and RWAF agree on the shape of a rabbit’s diet: mostly unlimited hay or grass, a daily handful of varied leafy greens, a small measured portion of pellets, and constant clean water. Treats and muesli-style mixes sit at the edge, and any change should be gradual. Where the pellet measures differ, the label and a vet’s advice settle the question.

Sources

• RSPCA, “A healthy diet for your pet rabbit”
• PDSA, “Feeding your rabbits”
• Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund, “How to feed rabbits”

Collars, cat flaps and the first steps into the garden are small decisions that shape how safe a cat is once it starts exploring. Cats Protection, the UK cat welfare charity, publishes guidance on all three, and its advice is consistent: choose equipment that fails safely, rely on a microchip for identification, and introduce outdoor access gradually. This guide summarises that advice. It is general information and not a substitute for a vet’s or a rescue’s guidance on an individual cat.

Should a cat wear a collar at all?

Cats Protection says that if the worry is a cat getting lost, the best way of making sure an owner is reunited with it is a microchip, because collars can easily come off or get lost while a chip stays in place. A chip can also communicate with certain cat flaps and feeders, allowing selective entry and feeding.

The charity warns that some collars are a hazard. A cat may get stuck outdoors if the collar catches on something, or may get a paw caught in it, and it describes serious injury as a possible result, including strangulation, deep skin lacerations and jaw damage.

What makes a collar safer

• Quick-release or snap-opening design. Cats Protection names these as the safest type, because a snagged collar is more likely to pop open and release the cat.
• No elastic. The charity does not recommend elasticated collars. They were once thought to be safe, but a cat that gets stuck may try to free itself with a paw and become more tangled.
• Good quality with no loose extras. It advises avoiding loose stitching and adornments such as studs or gems that could become a choking hazard if they come loose.
• Reflective strips. These can help a cat be seen at night, which may help around roads and traffic.

Fitting a collar correctly

The guidance says to buy a collar made specifically for cats. Once fitted, two fingers should slide comfortably underneath; too tight is uncomfortable and too loose risks the cat hurting itself. The fit should be checked again a few minutes later, because a cat may hunch or move around when the collar first goes on. A damaged collar should be replaced straight away.

Flea collars are a separate question. Cats Protection says collars in general are not very effective at keeping fleas at bay, may cause local skin irritation, and still need to be quick-release. For flea control it points owners to a vet, and the wider subject is covered in the guide to fleas on cats and dogs.

Bells and tags

Cats Protection notes that work done by the RSPB has shown that a bell on a collar can reduce the number of birds a cat catches. It also warns that bells, discs and other accessories can get caught or trapped in small spaces, such as between fence panels, so a bell is only suitable if the cat cannot catch its claws in it and the collar is quick-release. It also suggests keeping a cat indoors at dawn and dusk, which it describes as prime hunting time, and playing with the cat indoors.

On identification, the charity says a microchip is the safest route rather than a tag on the collar. The microchipping guide explains the legal side, and the missing pet search guide sets out what to do if a cat does not come home.

Choosing and using a cat flap

Cats Protection describes a cat flap as the ideal way to let a cat come and go, with various types to suit different cats. Some are triggered by a microchip, so cats that do not live in the home cannot get in, and others use built-in infra-red locking systems. It also notes that a cat flap can be an escape route from stress at home, for example after a conflict with another cat or when unfamiliar visitors arrive, and that microchip or magnetic flaps can stop neighbouring cats coming in. The multi-cat households guide covers sharing space.

Training a kitten or cat to use the flap

The charity says kittens usually learn quickly and suggests these steps:

• hold the flap open and lure the kitten close with treats;
• hold a treat on the far side of the flap and call the kitten’s name to encourage it through;
• repeat until the kitten goes through happily in both directions.

The first weeks outdoors

Cats Protection’s outdoor safety guidance says that after a move or the arrival of a new cat, a cat should as a rough guide be kept indoors for three to four weeks before being let out, though this varies between individuals. The reason given is that cats see home as a safe place with essential resources, and the first weeks let a cat lay down its scent to help it find its way back. The charity suggests short, supervised first outings, building up as the cat becomes confident about going out and returning. It also suggests letting a cat out before a meal so it is more likely to return for food, and stepping outside first with the door open so the cat can retreat.

The same guidance says vaccination is important for any cat that goes outside, and that neutering may reduce aggression although cat fights can still occur when new cats move into an area. The charity adds that many cats find a harness stressful. For households where outdoor access is not possible, the indoor cats guide covers enrichment.

The bottom line

Cats Protection’s message is to identify a cat with a microchip, use a well-made quick-release collar only if a collar is wanted, treat bells and tags with caution, and introduce the cat flap and the outdoors gradually. A cat kept in for three to four weeks after a move, then let out for short supervised trips, has the best chance of learning where home is.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Choosing a cat collar”
• Cats Protection, “Training a cat to use a cat flap”
• Cats Protection, “Keeping cats safe outside”

Every pet owner in England and Wales is bound by one short legal duty that sits behind most of the practical advice on pet care. It is found in section 9 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006 and it turns the familiar “five welfare needs” into a legal test. This guide explains how that duty works, how it differs from the cruelty offences, how enforcement usually starts, and how the position differs in Scotland and Northern Ireland. It is general information rather than legal advice.

Who and what the Act covers in England and Wales

Section 1 defines an “animal” as a vertebrate other than a human, so dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds, reptiles and fish are all within it. Section 2 treats an animal as a “protected animal” if it is of a kind commonly domesticated in the British Islands, is under human control on a permanent or temporary basis, or is not living in a wild state. Section 3 says a person is responsible for an animal whether on a permanent or temporary basis, that an owner is always responsible, and that a person is treated as responsible for any animal for which a child under 16 in their care and control is responsible. The legislation marks these provisions as extending to England and Wales.

A pet sitter has the same duty while the animal is in their charge; the guide to hiring a dog walker or pet sitter covers what to put in writing.

The duty of care and the five needs

Section 9(1) makes it an offence not to take such steps as are reasonable in all the circumstances to ensure that an animal’s needs are met to the extent required by good practice. Section 9(2) says those needs include:

• a suitable environment;
• a suitable diet;
• the ability to exhibit normal behaviour patterns;
• any need to be housed with, or apart from, other animals; and
• protection from pain, suffering, injury and disease.

The word “include” means the list is not closed, and “good practice” is not defined in the section itself. Section 9(3) directs attention to the lawful purpose for which an animal is kept and any lawful activity undertaken with it, so a working dog and a house rabbit are not judged by identical standards. The RSPCA describes the 2006 Act as moving the law from reacting after an animal has suffered unnecessarily to allowing enforcement agencies to act by advising and educating owners before their pets suffer.

How this differs from the cruelty offence

Section 4 is a separate offence, causing unnecessary suffering to a protected animal. It applies where an act or failure to act causes suffering, the person knew or ought reasonably to have known of that effect, and the suffering was unnecessary. Section 4(3) lists factors for judging necessity, including whether it could reasonably have been avoided or reduced and whether it was proportionate to the purpose of the conduct. A person responsible for an animal can also commit the offence by permitting, or failing to take reasonable steps to prevent, another person’s conduct that causes unnecessary suffering.

The section 9 duty is preventive: suffering need not have occurred.

Codes of practice

The RSPCA points owners in England to Defra codes for cats and dogs and an APGAW rabbit code, and says the Welsh Government publishes its own codes. A code is guidance on meeting the section 9 needs, not a new offence, so it describes what good practice looks like for a species.

How enforcement usually begins: improvement notices

Section 10 lets an inspector who believes a person is failing to comply with section 9(1) serve an improvement notice. It must state the inspector’s opinion, specify how the person is failing, set out the steps needed, and give a period for taking them. During that compliance period, no proceedings for the section 9(1) offence can be started for that non-compliance, and if the steps are taken in time, none can be started for it at all. An inspector may extend the compliance period.

The RSPCA says action can follow through a formal warning or, in some cases, a prosecution if advice is not followed or the animal’s needs are not being met. The notice provision applies to section 9(1) only; the Act does not make a notice a precondition of a prosecution under section 4.

Penalties

Under section 32(2), a section 9 offence is punishable on summary conviction by imprisonment for up to 51 weeks, a fine not exceeding level 5 on the standard scale, or both. Section 32(1) treats the cruelty offences in sections 4, 5, 6(1), 6(2), 7 and 8 more severely: on summary conviction the limit is the magistrates’ court general limit, and on conviction on indictment it is imprisonment for up to 5 years, a fine, or both. The current section 32(1) wording was inserted by the Animal Welfare (Sentencing) Act 2021, in force from 29 June 2021.

Scotland and Northern Ireland

The Animal Welfare Act 2006 provisions summarised above are marked on legislation.gov.uk as applying to England and Wales. Scotland has its own Animal Health and Welfare (Scotland) Act 2006, and Northern Ireland has the Welfare of Animals Act (Northern Ireland) 2011. Section 9 of the Northern Ireland Act uses closely parallel wording: it requires reasonable steps to ensure the needs of an animal are met to the extent required by good practice, and lists the same five needs. Penalties, enforcement and codes differ by nation.

Practical guidance on health signs and costs is in the signs of pain and illness guide and the responsible pet ownership guide.

Frequently asked questions

Does the duty apply if someone else looks after my pet?

In England and Wales an owner is always regarded as responsible, and whoever is in charge of the animal, even temporarily, is also responsible.

The bottom line

In England and Wales, the five welfare needs are the statutory list behind a duty of care that applies to owners and temporary carers alike. Enforcement can begin with advice and an improvement notice, while the more serious cruelty offence carries much higher penalties. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own Acts, so the nation where an animal lives decides which law applies.

Sources

• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 9: Duty of person responsible for animal to ensure welfare”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 4: Unnecessary suffering”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 10: Improvement notices”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 32: Imprisonment or fine”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 1: Animals to which the Act applies”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 2: Protected animal”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 3: Responsibility for animals”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Welfare of Animals Act (Northern Ireland) 2011, section 9”
• RSPCA, “Animal Welfare Act”
• legislation.gov.uk, Animal Health and Welfare (Scotland) Act 2006

Few things test a new puppy owner’s patience like toilet training. The good news is that the advice from Dogs Trust and PDSA is consistent: frequent opportunities to go outside, immediate rewards and no punishment. This guide summarises what the two charities publish, and explains how their advice changes when an adult dog that was already trained starts having accidents. It is general information; anyone with concerns about a dog’s toileting should speak to a vet.

What to expect

Dogs Trust says puppies might naturally take a few months to be completely house trained without the odd accident. PDSA takes a similar line: some puppies pick up toilet training within a few days, but others take much longer, and they are bound to have accidents at first. The pace differs between individuals, so a slow start is not a sign that anything is wrong or that the owner is failing.

When to take a puppy out

Dogs Trust lists the moments when a puppy should be taken outside: after a sleep, after eating or drinking, after play or exercise, and whenever the puppy becomes very excited, for example when visitors arrive. PDSA gives a more detailed timetable: first thing in the morning, every two to three hours during the day, shortly after each meal, after waking, and during or after play sessions. PDSA also suggests learning the puppy’s own signals, such as circling or sniffing, so that accidents can be anticipated.

Rewarding success

Dogs Trust stresses giving a reward as soon as the puppy has toileted, so that the puppy knows the behaviour pleases its owner: praise plus a tasty treat. PDSA recommends lots of praise and a high-value reward such as a healthy snack, noting that reinforcement makes the behaviour more likely to be repeated. Dogs Trust also suggests saying a chosen cue word just as the puppy begins to go, so that over time it links the words with the action.

Handling accidents

Both charities advise against punishment. Dogs Trust says to resist reacting and let the puppy finish, and warns that scolding may lead a puppy to go somewhere hidden to avoid its owner. PDSA says never to punish a puppy for an accident and to clean the area thoroughly. Dogs Trust recommends a biological cleaning preparation so that the smell is completely broken down, which matters because remaining scent can draw the puppy back to the same spot.

When an adult dog starts having accidents

Dogs Trust has separate guidance for trained dogs that begin toileting indoors. It lists several possible causes: medical reasons such as urinary tract infections, bladder stones and kidney disease; emotional stress, which can cause a dog to temporarily lose control of its bladder or bowels; scent marking, which can increase with changes in the environment; and, in older dogs, cognitive dysfunction that leaves them confused about where to toilet. Its advice is to visit the vet if any change is noticed, so that medical causes can be ruled out before behaviour is addressed, and to clean with an enzymatic cleaner often sold as a pet odour remover. PDSA advises that older dogs being retrained should be taken outside every hour and rewarded, with the gaps then gradually increased, and that they may need night-time opportunities at first.

Stress, marking and asking for help

Dogs Trust names loud noises, new household members, visitors and being left alone as triggers for stress-related accidents, and says marking is a normal behaviour in which a dog leaves a small amount of urine, more often when the environment changes or a dog of the opposite sex is nearby. It also advises avoiding reacting to or punishing accidents, because this raises anxiety and can worsen the problem. PDSA says the majority of older dogs being retrained learn very quickly, and suggests asking a local vet or vet nurse for advice, who can refer on to an accredited behaviourist if needed. Progress that stalls after several weeks of consistent routines is a sensible point to ask.

Where this fits in wider puppy care

Toilet training is easiest alongside other routines: our guides to crate training and positive reinforcement cover the surrounding habits, and our puppy socialisation guide covers early experiences.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take? Dogs Trust says a few months to be free of the odd accident; PDSA says some puppies learn in days and others take much longer.

Should I tell a puppy off for an accident? No. Both charities advise against punishment.

What if a trained adult dog starts having accidents? Dogs Trust advises a vet visit first, because medical causes are among the possible reasons.

The bottom line

Toilet training depends on frequent trips outside at predictable moments, an immediate reward for success and calm, thorough cleaning after accidents. Timelines vary from days to months, and a sudden change in a previously trained dog is a reason for a vet check rather than for punishment.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “How to Toilet Train Your Puppy”
• Dogs Trust, “Why Toilet-Trained Dogs Have Accidents”
• PDSA, “Toilet training your puppy”

Christmas changes almost everything in a pet’s home: new objects appear, visitors arrive, routines slip and the house smells different. The RSPCA and PDSA both publish festive guidance for owners. This article focuses on decorations, trees, gifts, visitors and routines, and on small pets; foods are covered in more detail in our guide to human foods that are toxic to dogs and cats. It is general information; a vet should be contacted if a pet has swallowed something unsuitable.

Decorations that need care

PDSA advises keeping small decorations, tinsel and fairy lights away from pets to prevent swallowing hazards, and avoiding chocolate baubles entirely. The RSPCA recommends avoiding breakable baubles, or hanging them higher up if they are used, and keeping tinsel, wrapping paper and edible decorations out of reach. Both charities also list festive plants: the RSPCA names lilies, holly, mistletoe, ivy, poinsettias and potpourri, while PDSA names poinsettia, mistletoe, holly and ivy, and says they should be removed from pets’ reach.

PDSA’s separate article on decorations says tinsel can cause a deadly blockage if swallowed and recommends skipping it, that baubles can lodge in the throat and shatter into injurious glass so unbreakable plastic ones placed higher up are safer, and that higher-voltage lights carry a risk of electric shock.

The tree

The RSPCA suggests anchoring a tree to a wall so that it cannot fall, and clearing up fallen needles around the base. PDSA advises supervising pets near the tree so it is not pulled down, and notes that dropped pine needles can injure paws. Its decorations article adds that the oils of real trees are toxic to pets, so it advises keeping pets away from the tree, vacuuming fallen needles and covering the water pot.

Gifts and wrapping

Not all hazards sit under the tree. The RSPCA advises avoiding gifts and cards that contain silica gel packets, wrapping paper, ribbons, batteries, small choking-hazard toys or glitter, and keeping them away from pets.

Visitors and a safe space

The RSPCA advises introducing new people gradually and letting pets meet visitors at their own pace, encouraging children to stay calm around animals, and keeping visitors’ own pets away from small animals to avoid frightening them. Both charities recommend a safe place to retreat to. The RSPCA describes somewhere cosy and quiet, away from the excitement, with hiding places such as cardboard boxes, wardrobes or spaces under furniture for cats. PDSA suggests building a den, or moving small pets to a quiet room before guests arrive. PDSA also advises against dressing pets in costumes.

Keep the routine

The RSPCA says to stick to routines wherever possible, keeping food, exercise, bed and toilet breaks the same, and to offer toys and feeding puzzles as alternative enrichment. PDSA likewise recommends maintaining regular feeding and walking schedules despite holiday disruption. PDSA’s calm-and-happy guidance adds that pets should be able to retreat to a quiet area where they will not be disturbed, that a pet should never be forced to socialise, and that pheromone plug-ins contain an artificial calming pheromone that can help stressed pets relax. For dogs it suggests brain games and feeding puzzles, and warns that extra attention can overwhelm a dog that prefers solitude. For cats it suggests introducing decorations gradually because cats tend to be wary of new objects, offering a high perch from which to watch events, and keeping guests out of at least one room that has food, water and a litter tray. Our guide to helping pets through fireworks covers many of the same calming ideas.

Festive food: the short list

The RSPCA’s list of toxic festive items includes chocolate, grapes and dried fruit, onions, garlic, leeks, alcohol, bones, fatty foods, blue cheese, xylitol-containing items and mouldy food. PDSA’s list overlaps and adds shallots and mincemeat, with raisins and sultanas named specifically. For treats, the RSPCA suggests boiled vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, green beans and peas, plus plain cooked, boneless, unseasoned turkey or chicken, while PDSA lists plain, unsauced white turkey meat and vegetables such as carrots, parsnips and green beans. Any pet that has eaten something on these lists should be discussed with a vet without delay.

Small pets

PDSA advises keeping electrical wires from fairy lights away from enclosures, decorating small pets’ spaces with hay and vegetables rather than lights, and protecting against nibbling hazards. Moving small pets to a quiet room before a house full of guests arrives reduces the risk of frightening them. See also our guides to rabbits and guinea pigs and hamsters.

Frequently asked questions

Are Christmas plants a concern? Both charities say certain festive plants, including holly, mistletoe, ivy and poinsettia, should be kept out of reach.

Should a pet be dressed up? PDSA advises avoiding costumes.

Should a pet meet guests straight away? The RSPCA advises introducing people gradually and letting the pet approach at its own pace.

The bottom line

Most festive risks come from things pets can chew, swallow or knock over, and from stress caused by change. The RSPCA and PDSA both recommend securing the tree, removing hazardous decorations and plants, giving every pet a quiet retreat and sticking to normal routines for food, walks and rest.

Sources

• RSPCA, “How to keep your pets safe from Christmas dangers”
• PDSA, “Christmas survival guide”
• PDSA, “Pets at Christmas: Keeping pets calm and happy”
• PDSA, “Dangerous Christmas decorations to be aware of if you’re a pet owner”

Walking equipment is one of the first purchases for a new dog, and the choices can be confusing: flat collar, harness, head halter or something marketed as a “no-pull” solution. Dogs Trust and the RSPCA give consistent advice, based on comfort, fit and reward-based training. This guide summarises their published guidance for dog owners; it is general information, and a qualified, force-free trainer or a vet can advise on a particular dog.

Harness or collar: what Dogs Trust says

Dogs Trust advises walking a dog using whatever piece of equipment is most comfortable for that dog, such as a flat harness or a collar. It says harnesses can reduce the risk of neck injury and increase comfort, and can make lead training more enjoyable, but it also stresses that a harness does not remove the need to teach the dog to walk politely on a lead. The comfortable choice for one dog may not be the right one for another, so it is worth watching how a dog moves and behaves in each option.

The identity tag rule still applies

Dogs Trust states that, to comply with the law, a dog in a public space must wear a collar with an identity tag attached, even when it is also wearing a harness. A harness on its own is therefore not enough for a walk. Microchipping rules are separate; see our microchipping and identification guide for the detail.

Choosing and fitting a harness

Dogs Trust says to avoid harnesses whose straps cross directly in front of the shoulders, because they prevent natural movement. Fit matters as much as design: you should be able to fit a finger comfortably between the strapping and the dog’s body when it is wearing the harness, so that it does not shift as the dog moves, and the dog must not be able to slip out of it. Most harnesses go over the head, but Dogs Trust notes that styles which clip around the neck and body may suit dogs that dislike having a strap pulled over their head.

Introducing a harness gently

Dogs Trust describes a step-by-step approach based on rewards:

• Put the harness on the floor and scatter treats around it so the dog links it with something pleasant.
• Feed treats through the head opening without asking the dog to put its head in.
• Guide the dog’s nose through the opening using treats.
• Let the dog hear the clips before fastening them, rewarding as the harness goes on.
• Use play or simple tricks to distract the dog while it wears the harness indoors.
• Move on to short walks with occasional treats.

If the dog backs away, Dogs Trust advises taking the harness off straight away and going back a stage.

Teaching loose-lead walking

Dogs Trust recommends starting indoors or in the garden, where distractions are low, rewarding the dog for staying beside you before the lead is even attached. Once you move, reward the dog whenever it is by your side, gradually increasing the distance between rewards and varying direction. When the lead tightens, stop, stand still and stay quiet, and do not move forward again until the lead is slack; jerking the lead or scolding is not part of the method. The charity is frank that teaching a loose lead takes a great deal of patience and time. For wider training principles, see our positive reinforcement guide.

Equipment to avoid

Dogs Trust warns that some equipment causes pain or discomfort by putting tension on a sensitive area when the dog pulls, describing this approach as unnecessary and unpleasant and confusing for the dog. The RSPCA calls prong and choke collars painful and unethical. Its head of behaviour is quoted as saying that repeated pressure from choke and prong collars can cause severe inflammation of the skin and muscle and, in extreme cases, cervical spine injuries. The RSPCA also says such collars do not teach the dog what to do and may create new behaviour problems, and recommends well-fitted, comfortable harnesses, reward-based training and trainers who use ethical methods.

Frequently asked questions

Can a dog wear only a harness in public? Dogs Trust says a dog in a public space must also wear a collar with an identity tag, even when in a harness.

Will a harness stop a dog pulling? Dogs Trust says harnesses can absorb much of a dog’s weight and reduce neck injury risk, but that lead training is still needed.

How can I tell whether a harness fits? Dogs Trust suggests that a finger should fit comfortably between the strapping and the dog’s body, and that the dog should not be able to slip out.

The bottom line

Both charities point owners the same way: choose the comfortable option for the individual dog, whether a flat collar or a well-fitted harness that does not restrict the shoulders, keep an identity tag on a collar, and teach loose-lead walking with rewards and patience. Equipment that works by causing pain or discomfort is not recommended by Dogs Trust or the RSPCA.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “Teach Your Dog To Wear A Harness”
• Dogs Trust, “Teach your dog to walk nicely on a lead”
• RSPCA, “Prong Collars”