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Cats Protection and International Cat Care, two cat welfare charities, both publish guidance on choosing from the wide range of cat foods on sale. This guide summarises their advice for UK owners on the basics of feeding a healthy adult cat. It is general welfare information; the charities advise speaking to a vet about special diets, weight worries or any cat that stops eating.

Choose a complete food

Cats Protection says cats need a meat-based diet balanced with the right amount of proteins, vitamins and minerals, and advises choosing a food labelled “complete”, which contains all the vital nutrients so no other food or vitamin supplements are needed. “Complementary” foods, such as treats, must be combined with other foods to give a balanced diet. International Cat Care makes the same distinction: complete foods give a cat all the nutrients it needs except water and are designed to be the main part of the diet, while complementary foods are typically treats, are nutritionally incomplete and should form no more than 10 per cent of the diet.

Cats Protection groups life stages as kittens up to one year, adults between one and eight years, and seniors over eight, and says each needs different food. It also advises picking a brand that is a member of UK Pet Food and does not recommend homemade meals unless a vet advises them, because the balance is very difficult to get right. The site’s guide to reading pet food labels explains the wording on packaging.

Wet, dry or both

Cats Protection says a cat can be fed wet food, dry food or both, and that the choice is down to the cat’s preference. It suggests offering both in separate bowls to see which the cat prefers.

• Wet food. It comes in many flavours, can appeal to fussy eaters, has a higher moisture content and is softer to eat. International Cat Care explains that cats tend to concentrate their urine rather than drink more water, so wet food provides a source of water, and that it is always lower in calories than dry food, which makes it bulkier.
• Dry food. Cats Protection says it can be left out all day, which suits cats that graze, and can be used in puzzle feeders. International Cat Care names ease, convenience and cost as the main benefits, and says dry food is more energy dense, which can suit thin or picky cats but can be a problem for cats unable to regulate their intake.

International Cat Care says most owners feed a combination, and that a vet can advise on the best choice for an individual cat.

Cats fed mostly dry food need help drinking. International Cat Care suggests a constant supply of clean water, a water station kept separate from food and the litter tray, ceramic or steel bowls because plastic can leave an aftertaste, wide flat bowls that do not touch the whiskers, several drinking stations, and possibly a water fountain.

How much and how often

Cats Protection says the amount depends on age, weight and activity. Owners should follow the packaging guidance on daily quantity and check the cat’s weight periodically, and speak to a vet if the cat seems over- or underweight. Neutered cats typically have reduced energy needs, so the daily amount may need reducing. The site’s guide to pet obesity covers weight in more detail.

Cats have evolved to eat little and often. Cats Protection notes that a wild cat would eat around 10 to 12 small meals a day and that pet cats often prefer the same pattern. Its guidance for adult cats is fresh wet food at least twice daily and dry food at least once daily, and it says wet food should be changed at least twice a day to stay fresh.

Where to put the bowls

• Cats Protection advises placing food and water bowls away from each other, because cats do not like their water contaminated by food, and putting the litter tray as far away from both as possible.
• Cats usually prefer to eat away from other cats, so in a multi-cat home food should be given in separate places.

Treats and human food

Cats Protection says treats should be limited so a cat does not gain weight, with the regular daily allowance reduced to allow for the extra calories, and that cat food treats are better than human food. It notes that many cats value play or attention more than food. It does not generally recommend human food because calories are hard to gauge, it can unbalance the diet and many human foods are harmful to cats; see the site’s guide to human foods that are toxic to dogs and cats.

Changing food and special diets

A sudden change of diet can upset the stomach or lead a cat to refuse a new food. Cats Protection recommends offering a little of the new food alongside the old in separate bowls, never mixed, increasing the amount of new food and reducing the old gradually over a week or more. If the cat refuses the new food or becomes unwell, it advises continuing with the old food and speaking to a vet. Cats are obligate carnivores, it says, so it does not recommend vegetarian or vegan diets, and anyone considering a raw diet should speak to a vet first.

Frequently asked questions

Is wet food better than dry?

Cats Protection says the choice is down to the cat’s own preference provided the food is complete, and International Cat Care says both have pros and cons.

Should a cat be fed vegetarian food?

Cats Protection says cats are obligate carnivores and do not recommend vegetarian or vegan diets.

The bottom line

The two charities agree on the basics: a complete cat food suited to the cat’s life stage, wet, dry or both according to preference, small regular meals, fresh water kept away from food and the litter tray, limited treats, and gradual changes to any diet. A vet is the right contact for weight concerns or a cat that is eating less than normal.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Feeding your cat”
• International Cat Care, “Should I feed my cat wet or dry food?”

There is no single figure for how much exercise a dog needs. The PDSA, the UK veterinary charity, says regular exercise is essential for keeping dogs in shape and important for their mental health, and lists several factors that change the amount. Dogs Trust adds that mental exercise counts too. This guide summarises their advice for UK owners. It is general welfare information, and a vet should be consulted about a dog with a health condition or worries about weight or fitness.

What decides how much exercise a dog needs

The PDSA names five factors:

• Breed. Some breeds need a minimum of one to two hours a day, and working breeds need significantly more.
• Age. While a dog is growing, exercise should be introduced slowly to protect the joints. Adult dogs need to stay fit and active, and senior dogs may need a little less than before.
• Health. An unwell or injured dog may need less than usual, and resting is an important part of recovery, so a vet’s advice should always be followed.
• Fitness. Fitness should be built gradually. A dog asked to join in a new hobby such as running or hiking should be eased into it slowly to avoid injury.
• Personality. Each dog has preferences, so exercise should be enjoyable and, where possible, tailored to the breed, for example to a dog bred to retrieve or swim.

How often to walk

The PDSA says walking should be part of every dog’s daily routine and that most dogs need at least one to two walks a day, unless a vet says otherwise. A brisk walk lets a dog burn off energy, while a slow, meandering walk for sniffing and exploring is good for mental health. Dogs Trust likewise says to allow plenty of time to sniff on walks and to vary the route.

The PDSA says a big garden is no substitute, because walks let a dog sniff new smells, explore places and meet people and dogs, which matters for wellbeing and confidence.

Other ways to exercise a dog

• Swimming. A good option for dogs that like water and easy on the joints, as long as water safety advice is followed.
• Running. The PDSA advises introducing it slowly, starting with short bursts of gentle jogging during a normal walk and building up.
• Hiking. Check that the route suits the dog and its fitness, and carry water and take regular breaks.
• Agility and flyball. Agility and flyball suit active, clever dogs. The PDSA says flyball is not suitable for very heavy dogs or those with joint problems and advises speaking to a vet before starting classes.
• Play. Play does not replace a walk but keeps a dog active and lets it chase, pounce and search.

Play and toy safety

The PDSA’s vets advise using only toys designed for dogs, checking them regularly and discarding any with parts that could be bitten off or swallowed, and choosing toys too large to swallow whole. It also warns that throwing items for fetch, with the quick starts and sudden stops, can strain joints, and suggests avoiding it for dogs that are still growing, elderly, injured, arthritic, overweight or on slippery surfaces. It says never to throw sticks because they can cause very serious injuries. Dogs Trust suggests rotating toys weekly to keep them interesting.

Mental exercise counts

Dogs Trust says enrichment lets dogs use natural instincts, can prevent boredom and build confidence, and should be provided daily. Ideas it lists include lick mats, puzzle feeders, dig boxes, snuffle mats, scattered food and treat trails. It advises supervising and taking food-based enrichment out of the evening meal so a dog does not gain too much weight. The PDSA also lists training as an essential part of a dog’s routine because it keeps the mind active and prevents boredom. The site’s guide to games and enrichment covers more ideas.

Safety on walks

The PDSA emphasises training. Good recall is essential so a dog will return in any situation, and should be practised indoors, then in an enclosed garden or park, before letting a dog off the lead in open space, using reward-based training. It does not recommend extendable leads because they can be dangerous for owner and dog, especially near busy roads. In summer it advises exercising during cooler hours and taking water, and in winter it advises a high-visibility jacket or collar or harness when it is dark. Dogs should be kept on a lead near roads, in built-up areas and around livestock. The site’s guides to dogs in hot weather and harness or collar choices give more detail.

If a dog does not enjoy walks

The PDSA suggests working out why. Fear of other dogs, people or the outdoors can make walks scary, and it recommends an accredited behaviourist. A dog that is struggling to keep up may need advice from a vet on diet and exercise. Boredom can arise if walks are rushed, and it suggests finding a better time or considering a dog walker.

Frequently asked questions

Will more exercise fix bad behaviour?

The PDSA says a good routine may help but is unlikely to fix a problem completely, and exercising a stressed dog in a busy place could make it worse. An accredited behaviourist can help.

The bottom line

According to the PDSA and Dogs Trust, exercise should be fitted to the individual dog: at least one to two walks a day for most, more for working breeds, gradual build-up, care with joints, and daily mental exercise alongside physical activity. A vet is the right contact for any dog with health concerns.

Sources

• PDSA, “Exercising your dog”
• Dogs Trust, “Enrichment activities to keep your dog entertained”

Scratched sofas and stair carpets are among the most common complaints of cat owners, but both Cats Protection and International Cat Care stress that scratching is a normal, necessary behaviour. The practical answer is therefore to redirect it rather than try to stop it. This guide summarises what the two charities say about why cats scratch, how to choose and place scratching posts, and when scratching points to insecurity. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or qualified behaviourist.

Why cats scratch

Cats Protection gives two main reasons: to keep claws in good condition, and to communicate with other cats and leave a reminder for themselves. Scent glands between the paw pads leave a unique smell on surfaces, which combines with the scratch marks and discarded claw husks to send a message to other cats.

International Cat Care adds that scratching also exercises the muscles of the front legs and spine. Dragging the claws downwards, known as stropping, loosens and removes the outer keratin husk to reveal sharp new claw underneath, and healthy, sharp claws help with climbing, hunting, playing and defence. It says kittens start to scratch from around five weeks of age.

Why scratching happens indoors

Cats Protection says every cat needs a scratching outlet whether it goes outside or not, so a cat with limited access to the outdoors will scratch in the home. In the wild, cats would scratch tree bark, and a sofa or chair can serve as a substitute because cats prefer objects that are sturdy or tall enough to grip and dig into. International Cat Care says cats scratch indoors for claw maintenance, exploration and play, and that scent deposited while scratching may give a feeling of physical safety and security. Some cats also learn that scratching furniture earns attention.

Choosing a scratching post

Both organisations emphasise matching the post to the cat. Their guidance includes:

• Height and stability. Cats Protection recommends a heavy, stable base so the post does not wobble or topple, and one tall enough for a cat to scratch at full stretch. International Cat Care likewise says a post should be as tall as the cat standing on its hind legs in a fully stretched position.
• Surface and direction. Cats Protection suggests a vertical weave that lets a cat run its claws downwards, and a horizontal scratching pad for cats that scratch carpets and stairs. International Cat Care says each cat has its own preferred surfaces and vertical or horizontal orientation.
• Like for like. If a particular surface is being damaged, International Cat Care says to offer an alternative with a similar experience. For example, a cat scratching textured wallpaper at a certain height needs a vertical alternative with similar texture and ridges that allows the same stretch.
• Age. Kittens and senior cats may prefer softer surfaces, such as angled or horizontal cardboard scratchers.
• Small spaces. International Cat Care says panels of sisal twine, bark or corrugated cardboard can be fixed to walls.

Where to put posts

Cats Protection advises placing a post next to the area where the cat has been scratching, then gradually moving it to a more suitable location once the cat uses it. Because cats often scratch and stretch on waking, a post near the cat’s bed is worth trying. It also suggests rubbing good-quality catnip on a post, or placing a few pieces of cat food on it, and playing with the cat little and often, which may help redirect energy away from furniture.

In homes with more than one cat, Cats Protection says every cat should have its own post positioned in a different place to avoid conflict. International Cat Care recommends one post per cat plus an extra for choice. The site’s guide to multi-cat households explains how resources are shared between cats.

Protecting furniture while the habit changes

Until the cat is using the post, Cats Protection suggests protecting the furniture with thick, shiny plastic sheeting, which cats find unappealing to scratch, and removing it gradually once the post is used. It also says to praise a cat that scratches the post and ignore scratching of inappropriate objects, because attention can reinforce the habit.

International Cat Care cautions that trimming claws may prevent immediate damage but does not meet the cat’s needs, and so it is best to offer alternatives instead. It says senior cats, however, may need regular claw trims because they are physically less able to scratch as often as they need to. Overgrown claws can catch on soft furnishings or grow into the pads, which is painful, and Cats Protection publishes a guide on how to trim claws safely.

When scratching signals stress

Cats Protection says that if a cat scratches in many places, including conflict areas such as windows and doors, it is likely communicating and feels insecure there, and the most common cause of indoor scratching of this kind is the presence of another cat. International Cat Care similarly says widespread scratching, particularly around doorways and windows, may signal a general sense of insecurity. Cats Protection warns against simply providing another scratching surface without helping the cat feel more secure, and says a qualified behaviourist may be needed to uncover the cause of the anxiety. International Cat Care notes that a synthetic feline pheromone can help provide reassurance. The site’s guide to keeping an indoor cat happy covers other ways to make a home more secure.

Frequently asked questions

Can a cat be trained never to scratch?

International Cat Care says scratching is normal and necessary behaviour that cannot, and should not, be stopped, only directed to suitable surfaces.

Does an indoor-only cat still need to scratch?

Yes. Both charities say indoor cats need sharp claws and a scratching outlet.

The bottom line

The charities’ advice is consistent: provide tall, stable posts in the right places, match them to the surfaces the cat already prefers, reward their use, and protect furniture while the habit changes. Widespread scratching around doors and windows is a prompt to consider what is worrying the cat.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Cats and scratching”
• International Cat Care, “Scratching on furniture and carpets”

The RSPCA’s guidance describes guinea pigs as animals with clear needs for space, company, hiding places and a carefully managed diet. This guide summarises the charity’s advice on housing, companionship and feeding. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice. For a wider overview, see the site’s guide to caring for guinea pigs and hamsters.

Space and shelter

The RSPCA says a guinea pig needs a secure space large enough to exercise in and high enough to stand fully upright on its back legs. Youngsters are especially playful and need a height of around 30cm for their “frisky hop”, also called popcorning. Accommodation should have a solid floor with a good depth of litter, because grid floors let litter through and can hurt guinea pigs’ feet.

Guinea pigs feel vulnerable in unprotected open spaces and like to stay in contact with solid surfaces, so the charity recommends a large exercise area with secure shelter, such as purpose-made houses, cardboard boxes or tubes. The RSPCA also suggests free access to an exercise area with pipes and shelters.

Indoors, outdoors and temperature

For indoor housing, the RSPCA advises well-ventilated, dry accommodation away from direct heat sources such as radiators or sunny windows, and away from draughts. It gives 17 to 20 degrees Celsius as an ideal room temperature and warns that some areas of centrally heated houses may get too hot.

Outdoors, the hutch should be sheltered from direct sun and direct wind, with sufficient bedding throughout to keep the animals warm. The charity says that temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius can cause heatstroke, and that guinea pigs should be moved indoors when temperatures fall below 15 degrees Celsius, at which they can become chilled.

Bedding, litter and cleaning

• Bedding. Warm bedding should be safe to eat, such as dust-free hay. Softwood products such as pine can cause illness, and stranded nesting materials such as cotton wool or fluffy bedding pose a serious risk because animals can become tangled and cannot safely eat them. Coarse materials such as straw should be avoided because they can cause eye injuries.
• Litter. The RSPCA calls dry, dust-free, absorbent wood shavings, supplemented with hay for tunnelling and hiding, the best type. Wood wool is also good for hiding in.
• Cleaning. On average, the RSPCA says, accommodation should be deep cleaned at least once a week, with daily spot cleaning, but not so often that the animals are frequently disturbed.
• Gnawing. Because incisor teeth grow continually, the RSPCA recommends untreated wooden toys, pieces of fruit tree or willow sticks. It advises avoiding plastic toys, which may harm a guinea pig if chewed or swallowed.

Company: why guinea pigs should not live alone

The RSPCA advises keeping a guinea pig with at least one other friendly guinea pig, unless a vet or clinical animal behaviourist advises otherwise. Left alone for long periods, guinea pigs can develop abnormal behaviour and may suffer. The charity lists good combinations as a neutered male with one or more females, two females, or brothers reared together. Unrelated males can be introduced, but it can be tricky and may take a few attempts. Success, it says, depends more on individual personalities than on sex, and neutering does not resolve fighting. Males kept with females should always be neutered, and a vet advises on this.

New animals should be introduced gradually and under supervision, preferably somewhere new to both. Guinea pigs need places where they can escape from companions and enough resources for all of them. The charity says refuges should exceed the number of animals by one, otherwise they can become stressed and lower-ranking individuals may be bullied.

The RSPCA also says rabbits and guinea pigs do not make ideal companions and that rabbits are best kept with rabbits and guinea pigs with guinea pigs, because their needs, diets and communication differ and rabbits may bully or injure guinea pigs. The site’s guide to rabbit housing and companionship covers the other side of that pairing.

What guinea pigs eat

According to the RSPCA, good-quality hay should make up the majority of the diet and be available at all times, with fresh grass ideally every day. Hay and grass matter for the digestive system and for wearing down teeth that keep growing, and the wrong diet can cause serious dental disease. Lawnmower clippings should never be fed because they upset the digestive system.

A fresh portion of grass-based guinea pig pellets should be offered daily following the manufacturer’s instructions, because it supplies vitamin C, which is destroyed over time and more quickly with exposure to air. The charity says not to simply top up the bowl.

The RSPCA groups vegetables into three lists, each described as examples:

• Can eat often: parsley, celery, bell peppers, cucumber, gem lettuce and romaine lettuce, rotated daily.
• As a treat, a few times a week in small amounts: broccoli, spinach, kale, small pieces of carrot and a quarter of an apple, because of their sugar or calcium content.
• Cannot eat: iceberg lettuce, potato, garlic, avocado, coconut and citrus fruits.

Fresh, clean drinking water must be available continuously, checked twice daily and protected from freezing. New foods should be introduced gradually, and quantities adjusted so a guinea pig does not become under- or overweight.

Frequently asked questions

Can a single guinea pig be happy with human company alone?

The RSPCA advises keeping guinea pigs in company with their own kind. If one has to be kept alone, it says, daily interaction is vital.

The bottom line

The RSPCA’s guidance points to the same essentials: a roomy, ventilated home with hiding places and a solid floor, careful temperature control, safe bedding, a companion guinea pig and a diet built on hay, grass and a fresh daily portion of pellets with suitable vegetables. The RSPCA advises consulting a vet immediately about any change in eating, drinking or toilet habits.

Sources

• RSPCA, “Creating a Good Home for Guinea Pigs”
• RSPCA, “Keeping guinea pigs together”
• RSPCA, “What To Feed a Guinea Pig”

A new baby brings new smells, sounds, equipment, visitors and routines that a pet must adapt to. Dogs Trust and Cats Protection, two UK animal charities, both say that early preparation and constant supervision are the foundations of a smooth start. This guide summarises their advice for dogs and cats in UK households. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or qualified behaviourist.

Why a new baby can unsettle a dog

Dogs Trust explains that dogs tend to like routine because they feel confident knowing what to expect and when. A new baby can mean less attention, shorter walks, longer periods alone and restricted access to some rooms, alongside unusual sounds, unfamiliar smells and more visitors. Unless a dog has been prepared, the charity says, it may feel very unsettled, so it advises starting early and going at the dog’s pace.

Preparing a dog during pregnancy

Dogs Trust suggests several steps in the months before the birth:

• Baby equipment. Gradually place items such as baby gyms, highchairs, mobiles, playpens, prams and toys around the house. The dog should be free to sniff each item, with treats or a game whenever something new appears.
• Baby sounds. Play audio clips of baby noises at a very low volume while the dog is doing something it enjoys, and raise it over weeks only while the dog stays relaxed. If the dog seems worried, go down a volume level next time.
• Baby smells. Unwashed baby clothes or blankets borrowed from friends with babies can be introduced gradually and paired with something the dog enjoys.
• Routine changes. Introduce likely changes, such as shorter walks or a closed-off future nursery, long before the due date.
• Settle and gate training. Teaching a dog to relax behind a baby gate, or in a crate it already enjoys, gives it a comfortable place to be when visitors arrive.
• Practice with a doll. Carrying and talking to a lifelike doll lets the dog see the new behaviour, and rewarding it for keeping all four paws on the floor helps with jumping up.

Preparing a cat

Cats Protection says cats love routine and that the best approach is to be proactive. A new baby brings new smells, sounds and equipment, which can overwhelm a cat used to a calm, quiet home. Its suggestions include plenty of hiding places and a quiet retreat, extra scratching posts and cat trees because scratching and climbing can help a cat feel secure, and time set aside each day for the cat.

The charity advises deciding early which room will be the nursery and teaching the cat that it is off limits so being shut out is not a sudden shock, and discouraging the cat from using the cot as a bed even before the baby arrives.

Bringing the baby home to a dog

Dogs Trust advises that a dog may be very excited to see its owner after a few days away, so it helps if someone else holds the baby while the dog is greeted. Owners may introduce the dog straight away or wait a day or two. The charity suggests holding the baby while standing and watching for a calm, relaxed dog. The dog can sniff if it wants to but should not be forced, and a helper may keep it on a loose lead. Most dogs sniff for a few seconds and lose interest, and the dog should then be praised and rewarded. If it looks uncomfortable at any point, the introduction should be stopped calmly. The charity also recommends a den area away from the household bustle, so the dog can choose whether to join the family.

Bringing the baby home to a cat

Cats Protection suggests greeting the cat alone for a quiet moment on arriving home, introducing cat and baby in a neutral space rather than where the cat eats or sleeps, and letting a curious cat sniff without forcing any contact. A cat that wants to leave or hide should be allowed to. Calm behaviour should be praised and rewarded, and routines kept as normal as possible.

Supervision comes first

Both charities are clear on supervision. Dogs Trust says a dog and a baby should never be left alone together, because babies make sudden noises and movements that can frighten a dog, and a baby should never be placed on the floor beside a dog. It adds that owners should plan for when the baby starts crawling, so the dog can walk away to its own space. Cats Protection likewise says a newborn is vulnerable, so cats and babies should always be supervised, and that interactions need particular care once a baby begins crawling.

The site’s own guides on children and dogs, dog body language and cat body language cover the signs that a pet is uncomfortable.

If a pet’s behaviour changes

Cats Protection notes that a new baby can lead to behaviour changes in some cats, such as excessive vocalisation, toileting problems or aggression. It advises speaking to a vet to rule out medical reasons and then seeking a referral to a qualified cat behaviourist. Cats Protection says cats and babies can live together in harmony.

Frequently asked questions

Should a cat be kept out of the nursery?

Cats Protection describes this as good practice with a newborn and suggests teaching it early.

Is a calm, friendly dog safe to leave with a baby?

No. Dogs Trust advises that even a relaxed, generally friendly dog may find the period worrying, and that a dog and baby should never be left alone together.

The bottom line

Preparation, gradual change and close supervision are the common threads in the advice from Dogs Trust and Cats Protection. Introducing equipment, sounds and smells slowly, keeping the pet’s routine as steady as possible, giving it somewhere quiet to retreat and never leaving a pet alone with a baby give most households the best chance of a calm start.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “How to prepare your dog for a new baby”
• Dogs Trust, “How to introduce your dog to your new baby”
• Cats Protection, “Cats and babies”

People who want help with a dog quickly meet a confusing range of job titles: trainer, instructor, behaviourist, technician. They are not interchangeable, and the differences matter when choosing who to trust with a dog. This guide sets out how the Animal Behaviour and Training Council (ABTC), a charity that maintains a national register of assessed practitioners, defines the roles, and what the RSPCA says about training methods and about seeking help. It is general information; for a dog with a behaviour problem, the RSPCA’s advice is to ask a vet first.

What the ABTC is

The ABTC describes itself as a registered charity that sets and maintains the standards of knowledge and practical skills needed to be an animal trainer, training instructor or animal behaviour therapist, and that keeps the national register of appropriately assessed practitioners. Its members include major animal welfare charities, educational institutions and membership organisations for practitioners. Practitioners are assessed by the ABTC’s assessing organisations and must belong to one of its practitioner organisations to join the register. All practitioners on the register are required to keep up to date with continuing professional development.

The ABTC states that registered practitioners must use science-led, compassionate and non-punitive methods and equipment, and that training and behaviour programmes must not be based on positive punishment or the creation of anxiety or fear. Its practitioner directory lists the species each practitioner is assessed to work with.

The roles, in the ABTC’s words

The ABTC’s guide to types of practitioner separates the roles as follows:

• Animal Trainer (AT): works directly with an animal to train required behaviours.
• Animal Training Instructor (ATI): teaches the owner or handler how to train their own animal, for example in dog training classes.
• Animal Behaviour Technician (ABT): works with the owner and animal to prevent problem behaviours and to give “behavioural first aid”, implementing plans after an assessment by a behaviourist.
• Clinical Animal Behaviourist (CAB): addresses unwanted, problematic or dangerous behaviours, on veterinary referral.
• Veterinary Behaviourist (VB): a Clinical Animal Behaviourist who is also a veterinary surgeon.

The ABTC also lists an Accredited Animal Behaviourist register, which it describes as a temporary register for practitioners assessed under earlier arrangements and now closed to new entrants. The pattern is that trainers and instructors deal with teaching behaviours, while behaviourists take on problem behaviours referred by a vet.

What the RSPCA advises

The RSPCA says all training should be reward-based, meaning something the dog likes, such as food, toys or praise, is given when the dog shows a behaviour, so the dog is more likely to repeat it. Its tips for owners are to:

• start new lessons in a quiet room away from distractions;
• keep sessions short and regular so the dog is not overwhelmed;
• be patient, since dogs learn at different rates;
• finish on something the dog already knows so the session ends positively.

For more advanced methods such as clicker training, the RSPCA recommends dog training classes, and for barking, aggression, destructiveness or phobias it points to a qualified behaviourist. Its guidance on finding a behaviourist says the owner should ask a vet first, because the vet can check whether illness or injury could be a cause. If nothing is found, the vet can refer the dog to a behaviour expert. The RSPCA stresses choosing an accredited expert, because outdated advice or methods can make a dog’s behaviour worse, and it names ABTC-registered Clinical Animal Behaviourists and Veterinary Behaviourists as trained and assessed for the work. For the basics of reward-based methods, see the guide to positive reinforcement training for dogs and cats.

Questions worth asking a trainer

Based on the ABTC’s published standards, an owner can ask any prospective trainer:

• Which register or organisation are you assessed by, and for which role?
• Do you work only with reward-based methods, and what equipment do you use?
• Will you work with my vet if a behaviour problem is involved?

The ABTC’s ethical dog training leaflet says some training aids work by positive punishment or by instilling fear or anxiety, naming squirt sprays, shock collars, choke chains and prong collars, and that some trainers still recommend them. It also cautions that television makeovers, edited into short time slots, can create unrealistic expectations of how quickly behaviour changes. For walking equipment more generally, see the guide to dog harnesses and collars.

Frequently asked questions

Should I see a vet before a behaviourist?

The RSPCA says yes: a vet can check whether illness or injury is behind the problem and, if not, can refer the dog to a behaviour expert.

The bottom line

The ABTC separates trainers, instructors, technicians and behaviourists by what they do, and reserves behaviourist roles for problems referred by a vet. The RSPCA recommends reward-based training and accredited experts, and asks owners with a behaviour concern to start with their vet. Checking which role and register a practitioner holds is the quickest way to match the professional to the problem.

Sources

• Animal Behaviour and Training Council, “Promoting Excellence in Animal Behaviour and Training”
• Animal Behaviour and Training Council, “Types of Practitioners: Which Practitioner Do You Need?”
• Animal Behaviour and Training Council, “Ethical Dog Training” leaflet (January 2021)
• RSPCA, “Dog training”
• RSPCA, “Find a clinical animal behaviourist”

Since 2021, taking a pet from Great Britain to the European Union has involved a different set of documents from the old pet passport scheme, and Northern Ireland has its own arrangement. This guide summarises the GOV.UK pet travel guidance for people living in England, Scotland or Wales who are travelling with a dog, cat or ferret. Rules can change and each destination country can add its own requirements, so the GOV.UK pages should be checked before booking. This is general information; a vet handles the vaccinations and paperwork.

The steps for travelling to an EU country

GOV.UK sets out the steps in this order:

1. Microchip the pet. The chip must be implanted before, or at the same time as, the rabies vaccination. Otherwise GOV.UK says the pet will need to be vaccinated again.
2. Rabies vaccination. The pet must be vaccinated against rabies before it can travel, and the vet needs proof that it is at least 12 weeks old. GOV.UK says the wait before travelling depends on the vaccine but is at least 21 full days after the first vaccination or the last of the first course.
3. Animal health certificate (AHC). An AHC is obtained from a vet, and a new one is needed for each separate trip from Great Britain to the EU.
4. Tapeworm treatment for dogs. GOV.UK says some countries require this, so it advises checking the destination’s rules.
5. Arrival. Travellers go through a travellers’ point of entry and may need to show the AHC and proof of the microchip, rabies vaccination and any tapeworm treatment.

GOV.UK also says travellers should check any additional rules for the country they are visiting.

How the certificate works

The certificate must be signed by an “official veterinarian”, so GOV.UK advises checking that the practice can issue AHCs and, if not, asking it to help find one that can. The vet needs proof of the microchipping date and vaccination history. Up to five pets can be added to a single certificate.

GOV.UK says the AHC is valid for entry into the EU for 10 days after issue, with day 1 counted as the date of issue, so the trip must begin within that window. After entry, it stays valid for onward travel within the EU for 6 months, and for re-entry to Great Britain for 6 months. If the pet’s rabies vaccination expires during the trip, the certificate cannot be used for onward travel or re-entry. The vet also gives the owner a declaration to sign confirming that the pet will not be sold or rehomed while abroad.

The GOV.UK guidance gives a worked example: if a vaccine takes 30 days to work and the pet is vaccinated on 1 October, the certificate can be obtained on 1 November and the pet can enter the EU up to and including 10 November.

Old pet passports

People living in England, Scotland or Wales cannot use a pet passport to enter the EU, even if it was issued in the EU, and GOV.UK warns that a pet may be refused entry if a passport is used instead of an AHC. It adds that an EU pet passport can still be used to enter the EU by people living in Northern Ireland.

Travelling to Northern Ireland

Different rules apply to the route from Great Britain to Northern Ireland. GOV.UK says a Northern Ireland pet travel document (PTD) is needed for a dog, cat or ferret going from England, Scotland or Wales. It is free to apply for online and lasts for as long as the person owns the pet. The pet must be microchipped, but GOV.UK says rabies vaccination and tapeworm treatment are not needed if the pet has a PTD.

• By ferry, the microchip must be scanned at the port before leaving Great Britain using a scanner provided.
• By air, the Department of Agriculture, Environment and Rural Affairs (DAERA) must be told at least 10 working days before travel.
• Officials scan the microchip on arrival to check the number against the PTD.
• GOV.UK says people who live in Northern Ireland do not need a PTD to travel to and from Great Britain, and there are no checks on the way to Great Britain.

Coming back to Great Britain

The document needed to return depends on where the pet is travelling from. GOV.UK says a pet coming from an EU country must have one of a pet passport issued in an EU country or certain other countries, an AHC issued in Great Britain in the last 6 months, a Great Britain pet health certificate, or a pet passport issued in Great Britain before 1 January 2021. Pets coming from Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands or the Isle of Man do not need a passport or health certificate. GOV.UK adds that, for a dog, a vet may need to give tapeworm treatment no less than 24 hours and no more than 5 days before arrival in Great Britain, and that a pet may be quarantined for up to 4 months, or refused entry if it travelled by sea, if the rules are not followed.

For a wider look at holidays with animals, see the guide to travelling and holidaying with pets.

Frequently asked questions

Can I take more than five pets?

GOV.UK says no more than five pets may be taken in a private vehicle to an EU country, or to Northern Ireland, unless attending or training for a competition, show or sporting event, or exporting for commercial purposes. Up to five can travel with a foot passenger to the EU.

The bottom line

For a trip from Great Britain to the EU, a pet needs a microchip, a rabies vaccination and a fresh animal health certificate for each journey, and the 10-day entry window is short. Northern Ireland uses a free pet travel document instead, and the way home depends on where the pet has been. Because rules can change, the GOV.UK pages should be checked close to departure.

Sources

• GOV.UK, “Taking your pet dog, cat or ferret abroad: Travelling to an EU country”
• GOV.UK, “Taking your pet dog, cat or ferret abroad: Getting an animal health certificate”
• GOV.UK, “Taking your pet dog, cat or ferret abroad: Travelling to Northern Ireland”
• GOV.UK, “Bringing your pet dog, cat or ferret to Great Britain: What you need to do”
• GOV.UK, “Bringing your pet dog, cat or ferret to Great Britain: Which pet travel document you need”

Most pet reptiles, small mammals and birds can be kept without any special permission, but a minority of species are regulated because of the danger they pose to people. The law that controls them is the Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976. This guide explains what the Act and GOV.UK say about who needs a licence, what the council must consider, and what happens if an animal is kept without one. It concentrates on England and Wales and is general information, not legal advice.

What the Act does

Section 1 of the Act says no person shall keep any dangerous wild animal except under the authority of a licence granted by a local authority. The provisions discussed here are marked on legislation.gov.uk as extending to England, Wales and Scotland. Scotland has its own version of the schedule of animals, so a keeper in Scotland should check the Scottish list. Northern Ireland is not among the nations to which the licensing provisions are marked as extending.

GOV.UK tells people to apply to their local council for a licence to keep a wild animal, and gives the examples of wild cats, primates, wild dogs such as wolves, certain pigs such as wild boar, and marsupials. It adds that hybrid or cross-bred animals may need a licence depending on how far removed the animal is from its wild ancestor, and that anyone unsure should ask the local council.

Which animals are on the list

The list is the schedule to the Act, and section 7 says only its first column counts in a dispute; the common names in the second column are explanatory. The England and Wales version covers, among others:

• most primates, from capuchins and macaques to chimpanzees and gibbons;
• wild dogs and wolves, but not domestic dogs, foxes or raccoon dogs;
• most cats, including lions, tigers, leopards and servals, but not the domestic cat or the wild cat and certain listed small species;
• bears, hyenas, elephants, rhinoceroses, giraffes and wild pigs;
• cassowaries and ostriches;
• crocodilians;
• venomous snakes in the families Elapidae (including cobras and mambas), Viperidae (including adders and rattlesnakes) and Hydrophiidae, plus the gila monster and the Mexican beaded lizard;
• certain spiders, including widow spiders and funnel-web spiders, and buthid scorpions.

The schedule also covers hybrids where at least one parent is of a listed kind, with some exceptions for particular cat hybrids. Animals such as ferrets, rabbits and domestic cats and dogs are not listed, but the schedule itself should be checked for any animal in doubt. For the everyday care of unlisted reptiles, see the guide to reptile and amphibian pet care.

What a council must be satisfied about

An application must name the species and number of animals, the premises where they will normally be held, and be made to the council for that area by someone aged 18 or over who is not disqualified. It must be accompanied by a fee that the authority sets to meet its costs. Under section 1, the council cannot grant a licence unless it is satisfied that:

• granting it is not contrary to the public interest on grounds of safety, nuisance or otherwise;
• the applicant is a suitable person to hold a licence;
• the accommodation secures that the animal will not escape and is suitable for construction, size, temperature, lighting, ventilation, drainage and cleanliness;
• the animal will have adequate and suitable food, drink and bedding and be visited at suitable intervals;
• appropriate steps are in place for fire or other emergencies, and reasonable precautions are taken to control infectious diseases; and
• the animal can take adequate exercise at the premises.

The applicant should normally both own and possess the animal, and an authorised vet must have inspected the premises and reported to the council before a licence is granted. The council then decides whether to grant or refuse it and attaches conditions. A refusal, or a condition the licence-holder objects to, can be appealed to a magistrates’ court in England and Wales.

Duration and offences

Section 2 says that in England and Wales a licence comes into force when granted and remains in force for two years, and that a renewal application made before it expires keeps the existing licence in force until the council decides. If the licence-holder dies, the licence continues for 28 days for the personal representatives. Keeping an animal contrary to section 1(1) is an offence, and so is breaching a licence condition unless the person shows they took all reasonable precautions and exercised due diligence.

Section 4 allows the council to seize an animal kept without a licence, or in breach of a licence condition, and to retain, destroy or otherwise dispose of it without paying compensation. It can recover its costs as a civil debt from the keeper.

Exemptions

Section 5 disapplies the Act for animals kept in a licensed zoo, in premises in England licensed under the pet-selling activity in the Animal Welfare (Licensing of Activities Involving Animals) (England) Regulations 2018, in Welsh premises licensed as a pet shop, and at places specified under the Animals (Scientific Procedures) Act 1986.

Frequently asked questions

Can I keep a wolf hybrid or exotic cat without a licence?

Not necessarily. GOV.UK says hybrids may need a licence depending on the animal’s ancestry, and the schedule has specific hybrid rules, so the local council should be asked before acquiring the animal.

The bottom line

Keeping a listed animal in England or Wales without a council licence under the Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976 is an offence and can lead to seizure. The council must be satisfied about the applicant, the safety of the premises and the animal’s care, backed by a vet’s inspection. The schedule, not the common name, is the test, and Scotland has its own version of the schedule.

Sources

• GOV.UK, “Apply for a licence to keep a wild animal”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, section 1: Licences”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, section 2: Provisions supplementary to section 1”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, section 4: Power to seize and to dispose of animals without compensation”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, section 5: Exemptions”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, section 7: Interpretation”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Dangerous Wild Animals Act 1976, Schedule (England and Wales): Kinds of dangerous wild animals”

Most owners never write down what should happen to a pet if they are taken into hospital, move into care or die. Charities in the UK run free schemes for exactly this, and they also publish guidance for people who have decided they can no longer keep an animal. This guide summarises what Cats Protection and Dogs Trust say about their services, and what owners are legally responsible for in England and Wales. It is general information; a solicitor can advise on wording a Will.

Why a plan matters

Under section 3 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, a person who owns an animal is always regarded as responsible for it, and the section is marked on legislation.gov.uk as applying to England and Wales. That stays true even when someone else is looking after the animal, so a named person and written instructions make a difference. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own animal welfare legislation, although the two charity schemes described below operate across the UK.

Cat Guardians from Cats Protection

Cats Protection describes Cat Guardians as a free service. An owner registers in advance, and once the charity is told that the owner has died, it arranges for the cat or cats to come into the care of a nearby branch or centre. Staff and volunteers then look after them while trying to find a home that suits each cat’s personality and needs. Cats Protection states that it never puts a healthy cat to sleep and will care for a cat for as long as it takes to find a new home.

The registration form gives the charity useful details such as the food the cat likes, which its own case study says helped staff settle a cat whose owner had died. Cats Protection also notes that many people who register choose to remember the charity in their Will, but registering does not depend on that.

The Dogs Trust Canine Care Card

Dogs Trust says that if a Canine Care Card holder becomes seriously ill or dies, it will look after the dog and find them a home. The process it describes has four steps: a short online application, a follow-up email asking about the dog and the owner’s wishes, receipt of a card to keep in a wallet or purse, and a line in the owner’s Will. Its suggested wording is “It is also my wish that Dogs Trust cares for and rehomes my dog at the time of my death”.

Some practical points from the Dogs Trust page:

• A Dog Guardian, such as a neighbour or relative, is named on the application. The guardian tells Dogs Trust, and is responsible for arranging interim care until the dog can come into one of its rehoming centres.
• Each dog is assessed by qualified behaviourists, and Dogs Trust says it never puts down a healthy dog.
• Dogs Trust says it cannot activate a card for a dog showing extreme aggression, one categorised as an index dog or otherwise restricted under the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991, or one living overseas.
• Card holders are asked to keep microchip details, vaccination information and the guardian’s details up to date, and to tell the charity if they get another dog or if their dog dies.
• The charity says it does not have facilities for other species, and suggests contacting other animal welfare charities for a similar service.

If you are thinking of giving up a pet

Cats Protection’s guidance on giving up a cat begins by asking owners to consider whether the reason can be resolved. It points, for example, to charity help with neutering costs, vet payment plans, and support from PDSA or Blue Cross where bills are a worry. It says a change in behaviour is worth discussing with a vet before any decision, and it says tenants in England now have a right to request a pet that cannot be unreasonably refused under the Renters’ Rights Act. For more on that, see the guide to renting with a pet in England.

Where rehoming is the right decision, Cats Protection sets out these steps:

1. Plan early, because there can be waiting lists for space.
2. Contact the local branch, which arranges a time to bring the cat to a centre or a volunteer fosterer. Charity shops cannot help with rehoming.
3. Complete a questionnaire about the cat’s history, diet and needs.
4. Bring the cat in a suitable carrier, ideally with familiar toys or blankets.

The charity asks owners not to abandon a cat or advertise one for free online, saying this can be dangerous for the animal, and to tell the local branch if the situation is urgent. It also runs a free, confidential temporary fostering service called Lifeline for people leaving domestic abuse, as a short-term option.

The guide to adopting a rescue dog or cat explains what the process looks like from the adopter’s side.

Frequently asked questions

Do these services replace a Will?

No. Dogs Trust asks card holders to confirm their wishes in their Will and suggests specific wording. Cats Protection describes Cat Guardians as a registration service and says many registrants also leave a gift in their Will, which is optional.

The bottom line

An owner is always regarded as responsible for a pet in England and Wales, so a written plan is worth having. Cats Protection’s Cat Guardians and Dogs Trust’s Canine Care Card are free schemes that provide one for cats and dogs, though each has limits. For cat owners considering giving up a pet, Cats Protection recommends looking for practical help first and then rehoming through a charity rather than an online giveaway.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “How does the Cat Guardians service work?”
• Cats Protection, “Thinking about giving up a cat”
• Dogs Trust, “Canine Care Card”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 3: Responsibility for animals”

A few hens in the back garden are treated as pets by many owners, but in England and Wales the law treats them as kept birds. Registration is compulsory, records must be kept up to date, and sensible hygiene routines are set out in official guidance. This guide summarises what GOV.UK says for England and Wales, with notes on where Scotland and Northern Ireland differ. It is general information, not legal advice, and a vet can advise on the health of individual birds.

Do pet chickens have to be registered?

GOV.UK’s guidance for keepers of fewer than 50 birds says a person must register within one month of keeping poultry or other captive birds at any premises in England or Wales, and that failing to register is breaking the law. The guidance covers up to 49 birds, “including any you keep as pets”. The requirement is set out in the Exotic Disease (Amendment) (England) Order 2024 and the Avian Influenza (Preventive Measures) (Wales) (Amendment) Regulations 2024.

Keepers with a County Parish Holding (CPH) number can register by form or email. Those without one can register online, which GOV.UK says should take about 10 minutes. The page is marked as applying to England and Wales and links to separate guidance for Scotland, so a Scottish keeper should follow that guidance rather than this article.

Which birds are exempt?

Budgies, parrots, cockatiels, canaries and finches do not need to be registered if they are fully housed in a dwelling with no access to the open air. GOV.UK adds that registration is required if such birds are taken outdoors at any time, for example to exercise or train them. This is an exemption for indoor cage birds; chickens are poultry and fall within the general requirement.

Keeping the record up to date

After registering, keepers must confirm their details and their birds to the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) every 12 months. Changes must be reported within 30 days, including a new contact address, no longer keeping birds, a change in species or numbers, or a change in the main purpose for keeping them. The bird flu prevention guidance adds that the record should also be updated sooner if a flock grows or shrinks by 20% or more. Records can be updated online, by email to [email protected], or by phone on 03000 200 301.

GOV.UK explains the practical point of the register: APHA can contact registered keepers with updates and guidance if there is a disease outbreak such as bird flu in the area.

Biosecurity for a small garden flock

GOV.UK’s prevention guidance, which is marked as applying to England with separate pages for the other nations, names the main routes for bird flu as contact with wild birds (waterfowl such as geese, ducks, swans and gulls in particular), faeces from infected birds, and dirty footwear, clothing, vehicles and equipment. Its advice for keepers includes:

• keep feed, water and bedding in covered, enclosed areas that wild birds and rodents cannot reach;
• check the area around the housing daily and remove wild bird faeces, feathers and carcasses;
• fence or net outdoor areas and stop birds accessing standing water;
• keep ducks and geese away from other birds, because they may not show signs of bird flu;
• wear clean clothing and footwear when entering bird housing, and use a Defra-approved disinfectant when cleaning hard surfaces and equipment;
• control rats and mice, and limit and record visitors to the birds.

A separate GOV.UK page says that anyone who suspects bird flu in poultry or other captive birds must report it immediately, as it is a notifiable disease. In England the number is 03000 200 301, in Wales 03003 038 268, and in Scotland the local Field Services Office. Anything more specific about a sick bird is a matter for a vet.

Housing rules can change

When bird flu is circulating, the government can introduce housing measures that require birds to be kept indoors in defined areas. GOV.UK has published notices both introducing and lifting them, so keepers should check the current position for their area.

Selling spare eggs

Many small keepers end up with more eggs than they need. GOV.UK’s egg marketing guidance, marked as applying to England and Wales, says eggs need not be stamped with a producer code if they are sold directly to consumers for their own use from the keeper’s own farm or door to door locally. A keeper of fewer than 50 birds selling at a local public market also need not stamp them, but must display their name, address, a best-before date (a maximum of 28 days from the date of lay) and advice to keep the eggs chilled after purchase. The guidance says a keeper with 50 or more hens selling ungraded eggs at a local public market must register as an egg production site, as must one with 350 or more hens.

Selling food for human consumption may also involve food business registration with the local authority, which the local council can explain. For a wider picture of duties towards animals, see the guide to the Animal Welfare Act 2006 in England and Wales, which applies to chickens as it does to other pets.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to register two hens kept for eggs?

In England and Wales, GOV.UK says birds kept as pets are covered, and the guidance for smaller keepers sets no lower limit on flock size.

The bottom line

In England and Wales, pet hens are kept birds in law, so registration with APHA is compulsory whatever the flock size, and details must be confirmed every 12 months. Good biosecurity, checking local housing notices and knowing the rules on selling eggs are the other duties that come with even a small garden flock. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own guidance.

Sources

• GOV.UK, “Register as a keeper of less than 50 poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Register as a keeper of 50 or more poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Bird flu (avian influenza): how to prevent it and stop it spreading”
• GOV.UK, “Bird flu (avian influenza): how to spot and report it in poultry or other captive birds”
• GOV.UK, “Egg marketing standards”