Category: Uncategorized

A kitten’s first home is a single room. Cats Protection, Blue Cross and PDSA all describe starting a new kitten in one or two rooms and widening its world only as it gains confidence. Cats Protection also points out that cats can live for 15 to 20 years, so the first days are the start of a long commitment. This guide follows the order in which things happen: preparing the room, collection day, the first days and the first steps beyond the door. It is general welfare information; a vet is the person to ask about health questions. See also this site’s guides to introducing a new pet and setting up litter trays.

Days before: preparing the settling-in room

Cats Protection says to set up a quiet, escape-proof sanctuary room before collecting the kitten: a small room where the door can be closed, away from busy or noisy parts of the home. Blue Cross similarly advises one quiet room that is big enough to explore without feeling overwhelming, and says it helps house training, because once the litter tray habit is strong the kitten will seek it out when it has the run of the home.

Cats Protection lists what the room should contain: a bed, food and water bowls placed apart from each other, at least one litter tray away from food and water, several hiding places, a safe high spot, a scratching post, toys and space to play. Blue Cross adds that the high spot gives a worried kitten somewhere to watch from a safe distance, and says to check that shelves are not too high and that there is an easy way up and down.

The room and the rest of the home also need checking. Cats Protection says kittens can squeeze into very small spaces, so gaps behind cupboards, furniture and kitchen appliances should be blocked, washing machines and tumble dryers kept closed, toxic plants removed (lilies are described as highly toxic to cats) and medicines and cleaning products locked away. Blue Cross adds tidying trailing wires and putting small items out of sight.

Scent swapping

Cats Protection suggests that, a few days before collection, the owner asks whether a blanket or item of clothing that smells of them can be left with the kitten, and that a small cloth smelling of the kitten is rubbed gently over surfaces in the room before it arrives. Blue Cross and PDSA also suggest asking the breeder or rehoming centre for a blanket or towel that smells of the kitten’s previous home so that it has familiar smells in its first days.

Collection day

Cats Protection recommends a sturdy, well-ventilated carrier, secured with a seatbelt if travelling by car. Blue Cross says to check before leaving that windows and doors to the outside are closed and nooks and crannies blocked off. On arrival, Cats Protection says to take the kitten straight to its room, place the carrier there, open the door and let the kitten come out in its own time, without pulling it out or forcing it to interact. Some kittens adapt quickly, it adds, while others may take a few weeks to feel settled and safe.

The first days

Cats Protection’s list for the first hours and days is short and calm:

• let the kitten approach rather than picking it up straight away;
• keep handling gentle and brief, and allow hiding when the kitten wants to;
• keep noise and visitors to a minimum, and avoid sudden movements;
• keep the routine consistent and allow plenty of time to sleep.

Blue Cross suggests sitting quietly in the room and talking so the kitten hears the owner’s voice, and never pulling it out of a space or bed if it hides. PDSA says to keep feeding at the same time each day, to use the same food and litter as the breeder or shelter at first and change them gradually, and to let the kitten explore at its own pace, staying around but letting it come to the owner. Blue Cross also advises booking a vet check a few days after the kitten comes home, and PDSA says to get one soon after.

Opening the door a little wider

As the kitten becomes used to its room, Blue Cross says it can start exploring other rooms, eventually the whole house once it is confident. Cats Protection gives guidance for the household: children should be taught to be gentle, kittens should be left alone when sleeping, eating, hiding or using the litter tray, and children should never chase a kitten. Introductions to another cat should be done very slowly, starting with swapping scent items, with separate food bowls, water bowls, litter trays and beds for each cat.

Outdoor access comes later. Cats Protection says a kitten should be fully settled, fully vaccinated, neutered and microchipped before going outside, and that in England microchipping is compulsory for all owned cats over 20 weeks old. Blue Cross says kittens need to be at least five months old before exploring the outdoors. The step-by-step version is in the guide to cat collars, cat flaps and first trips outside.

Two quick questions

How old should a kitten be when it comes home?

Blue Cross says at least eight weeks old. Cats Protection says a kitten raised with its mother should stay with her until at least eight weeks.

Where do the bowls and litter tray go?

Cats Protection says food and water bowls should be placed apart from each other, with the litter tray away from both. Blue Cross says cats prefer to eat and drink in separate locations.

The bottom line

All three charities describe the same pattern for a new kitten: a quiet room prepared in advance, a familiar-smelling blanket, a carrier opened in the room on arrival, then a calm, predictable routine in which the kitten sets the pace. Cats Protection says some kittens settle quickly and others take a few weeks.

Sources

• Bringing a new kitten home (cats.org.uk)
• Bringing your new kitten home (bluecross.org.uk)
• How can I prepare for a new kitten? (pdsa.org.uk)

Picture a dog let off the lead in an open space just as a squirrel bolts across the path. This is an illustration, not a real case, but Dogs Trust names a squirrel or another dog as the kind of thing that can seem more exciting than coming back. Most dogs love a run off the lead, the charity says, and before letting a dog loose an owner needs to be confident that it will always come back when called, whatever is going on around it. This guide brings together the recall advice of Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Blue Cross. It is general welfare information and not a substitute for a qualified trainer or behaviourist; see this site’s guide to trainers, instructors and behaviourists.

Why the dog may choose the squirrel

Dogs Trust says that when a dog is let off the lead, a whole world of choice opens up, and the dog may also be unsure that its owner wants it to return. The charity’s answer is to teach the dog that coming back is always a good thing, with tasty snacks, a fuss or whatever reward the dog likes best. The RSPCA puts the same idea plainly: to teach a dog to come back, the owner must learn to be more exciting than the rest of the world.

Stage one: a name, a cue and a reward

Dogs Trust starts with the dog’s name, so the owner can get its attention before adding a recall cue. The cue can be a short word such as “come” or “here”, or a whistle, with a visual cue such as open arms. Everyone in the household should use the same word and movement, and Blue Cross likewise says the choice of cue is up to the owner but should be kept consistent.

Practice starts somewhere easy. Dogs Trust suggests indoors, in the garden or in another enclosed space with tasty treats to hand: get the dog’s attention, give the cue, take a step away and reward the dog with praise and a treat when it arrives. The RSPCA offers a fun game with a toy as an alternative incentive. Both the RSPCA and Blue Cross mention gently holding the collar as the dog arrives, and Blue Cross explains that an owner will often need to hold the collar, for example to attach a lead.

Stage two: distance, distractions and the long line

Once recall is working, Dogs Trust says to increase distance and distractions gradually, eventually leaving the garden, with a long line attached to the dog’s harness to keep it safe during training. The RSPCA says long training leads allow some freedom without complete free range, and should be used outdoors once the dog is consistently coming when called around the house and garden. Blue Cross adds two safety points: a longer lead or training line should only be used well away from roads, and the dog should wear a harness with anything longer than a walking lead, as it may otherwise injure its neck. For lead choices, see the guide to dog harnesses and collars.

When the dog does not come

Dogs Trust says that if the dog ignores the cue, the owner should stay calm, because getting angry or shouting will make the dog not want to come back. The owner can gently guide the dog in with the long line, never pulling the dog towards them, or go and collect it. Blue Cross says that if a dog does not return the first time, more training is needed in that situation, so the owner should go back to the point at which the dog was coming back reliably, and avoid telling the dog off.

Dogs Trust names busy roads, other dogs, farmed animals and dog thieves among the dangers of a dog running around unsupervised. A dog that keeps darting off should stay on a long lead attached to a harness and only be let off in secure areas.

Habits that undo recall

• Repeating the cue. Dogs Trust says to leave at least five seconds before calling again, and not to call again if the dog is unlikely to return, as this could teach that not coming back is acceptable.
• Calling only to end the fun. The RSPCA says a dog called only to be put back on the lead will soon make the association and be reluctant to come back. Blue Cross says the dog will learn that the cue signals the end of free time, and suggests calling it for a fun game or feeding it now and again during a walk.
• Calling and then scolding. The RSPCA says to call only when the owner is going to praise the dog, because a dog that is called and then told off will be less likely to come back next time.

Why some dogs find it harder, and when to ask for help

Blue Cross says some dogs need less motivation than others to come back, often down to breed type: dogs bred to work closely with people, such as gundogs or herding types, seem to keep more of an eye on their owners, while those bred to be more independent, such as terriers or hounds, tend to be more interested in sounds and smells. Dogs Trust says that if training is not improving, the owner may wish to contact a qualified trainer or behaviourist, and it runs a free Behaviour Support Line. It also says a dog should wear a collar and ID tag in public at all times, with microchip details kept up to date, and that this is law in the UK.

The bottom line

The three charities describe recall as something taught in stages: a name and cue, rewards that make coming back worth it, then distance and distractions on a long line away from roads. Dogs Trust says to let a dog off the lead in open spaces only when the owner is confident it will come back when called.

Sources

• How to train your dog to come back when called (dogstrust.org.uk)
• Train your dog to come when called (rspca.org.uk)
• Dog recall training (bluecross.org.uk)

Chinchillas are quiet, clean and attractive, and they are also a long commitment with demanding housing needs. The RSPCA says they can live for 10 to 20 years, are shy and flighty, and do not enjoy being stroked or handled. This guide summarises the RSPCA’s chinchilla pages, with enclosure advice from PDSA and Blue Cross, whose figures differ from each other. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice; a vet should be asked about any change in eating, droppings or behaviour. For other small species, see this site’s guides to hamsters, gerbils and guinea pigs.

Company, handling and who they suit

The RSPCA explains that in the wild chinchillas live in colonies of more than 100 animals, so they must not be kept singly as pets. It recommends housing them with one or more friendly chinchillas and giving them chances to interact with friendly people. Blue Cross agrees that chinchillas are not happy alone and that at least two should be kept, and suggests introducing new companions gradually, with cages side by side about 10cm apart so they can smell each other before meeting.

Handling is limited. The RSPCA says chinchillas can learn to enjoy familiar people and being petted but tend not to enjoy being picked up and often struggle. It says they are more appropriate for adults than children, and best for owners who enjoy watching animals. They are prey animals with sensitive hearing, easily startled by sudden loud sounds, and the RSPCA warns against shouting at or punishing them. It also notes that chinchillas can lose large patches of fur, called fur slip, as a defence mechanism, which can also occur in captivity because of inappropriate handling.

Housing: where the sources differ

The RSPCA says the home must be large and secure, such as a secure room or large metal mesh cage, with solid flooring such as wood in addition to mesh, because long periods on wire can damage feet. It asks for lots of horizontal and vertical space to run and jump, branches and solid platforms with no uninterrupted heights greater than 60cm, hay-filled nest boxes and hiding places, and gnawing toys of wood, rope, cardboard and pumice rather than plastic. It adds that experts are still learning how best to care for chinchillas and that there is no single perfect way provided their needs are met.

The charities give different size guidance. PDSA says cages often are not big enough and recommends a large indoor enclosure or a room of their own; if a cage is used, it says it should be at least 2 metres high, 2 metres wide and 1 metre deep. Blue Cross gives a minimum cage size of 90cm by 60cm by 120cm for a pair or trio. The practical reading is that these are floors, not ceilings, and bigger is better, with a safe exercise area outside the cage where space is limited.

For temperature, the RSPCA says to keep chinchillas indoors in well-ventilated, dry, draught-free housing, ideally at 10 to 18 degrees Celsius, because they can become ill in hot, wet, humid or draughty conditions. PDSA gives 10 to 15 degrees and says temperatures over 30 degrees can be deadly, and Blue Cross says a cage should never sit in a sunny window. The RSPCA also says to keep chinchillas quiet and away from dogs, cats, ferrets and other pets. For bedding, it recommends good-quality dust-free hay and warns against cotton wool and other fluffy bedding that separates into strands. PDSA adds that shredded newspaper should not be used because the ink can be toxic.

Dust baths and daily rhythm

The RSPCA says each day chinchillas should be given a shallow tray of clean fine sand or “chinchilla dust” to bathe in, which keeps the fur in good condition, and that the tray should be removed or sieved after use. Chinchillas are most active in the evening and at night and need to sleep undisturbed in the day. The RSPCA says they need 12 hours of darkness. PDSA suggests cleaning in the evening when they are naturally active, and keeping back a handful of clean used bedding so the enclosure keeps a familiar smell.

Diet

The RSPCA says chinchillas’ digestive systems need hay and grass, and that their teeth grow continuously and are worn down by eating grass and hay or grass-based chinchilla pellets; the wrong diet can lead to serious dental disease. Good-quality hay should make up most of the diet and always be available. Pellets are a small daily addition, and treats are limited to small amounts of dried fruit and root vegetables, with nuts and seeds avoided because they are high in fat. Water comes from a bottle checked twice a day. The diet must never be changed suddenly. Chinchillas produce hard, dry droppings and softer ones that they eat, which are an essential part of the diet. If eating or drinking changes, or droppings become fewer, smaller or stop, the RSPCA says to talk to a vet straight away.

FAQs

Can one chinchilla be kept alone?

The RSPCA says chinchillas must not be kept singly, because they live in large colonies in the wild. Blue Cross says to keep at least two.

Are chinchillas good pets for children?

The RSPCA says they are more appropriate for adults, because they are shy, flighty and do not enjoy being handled.

The bottom line

Chinchillas need a 10 to 20 year commitment, company of their own kind, a large, cool, quiet and secure home with solid flooring, safe chewing items, a daily dust bath and a diet built on hay. Advice on exact cage size and temperature varies between the RSPCA, PDSA and Blue Cross, so the larger and cooler end of each range, plus a vet’s view, is the safer guide.

Sources

• Chinchillas, overview and facts (rspca.org.uk)
• Creating a good home for chinchillas (rspca.org.uk)
• Chinchilla behaviour (rspca.org.uk)
• What to feed chinchillas (rspca.org.uk)
• The ideal home for chinchillas (pdsa.org.uk)
• Chinchilla care guide (bluecross.org.uk)

Needle-sharp teeth on hands and ankles and a chewed shoe are standard puppy experiences. Dogs Trust describes puppy mouthing as completely natural and says most puppies grow out of it, while PDSA stresses that chewing is part of being a dog. Both charities say the solution is redirection and meeting the puppy’s needs, not punishment. This guide summarises Dogs Trust’s guidance on mouthing, nipping and biting and PDSA’s guidance on training dogs not to chew. It is general welfare information, not veterinary or behaviour advice. It complements this site’s guides to positive reinforcement training and to toilet training a puppy.

Why puppies mouth and chew

Dogs Trust says puppies explore and play with their mouths, and that mouthing is often linked to overexcitement, frustration and pain. Teething is one cause. Baby teeth appear at about four weeks and begin to fall out at about 12 weeks, gums can be sore and sensitive, and chewing can be soothing. Adult teeth usually all come through by about seven months, though this varies with size and other factors, and signs such as drooling or finding lost teeth are normal.

PDSA adds other reasons dogs chew: boredom, learned attention seeking, distress or frustration, and medical causes. It calls it a myth that dogs chew to annoy or out of spite, saying they just need to chew something and may lack safe options. A change in chewing habits is a reason to visit a vet. Dogs Trust likewise says sudden or increased biting or mouthing can be linked to pain or illness, and that overtired puppies, which need 18 to 20 hours of sleep a day, often show mouthing and “zoomies”.

What to do in the moment

Dogs Trust gives a four-step response when a puppy puts its teeth on a person:

1. stay still, and drop any toy or put it out of sight;
2. if mouthing continues, turn away and cross the arms, withdrawing attention;
3. if that fails, move away, using a door or stair gate if the puppy follows and mouths at feet or clothes; and
4. once the puppy is calm, reward it by restarting the game, picking up the toy, scattering treats or offering a gentle fuss.

It adds that the puppy will learn that mouthing means the fun ends, and that everyone in the household should follow the same rules, because consistency helps learning. It advises against pulling hands, arms, legs or clothing away quickly, because that can turn the behaviour into a game, and against punishment such as raised voices or pushing the dog down, which can increase frustration and fear. The charity also recommends spotting the signs that a puppy is about to play, such as bouncing, pouncing or batting with paws, and offering a suitable toy first. It adds that rough games or letting a puppy mouth hands teach it that mouthing is acceptable.

Safe chews and toys

PDSA says a dog caught chewing something it should not should not be punished, since punishment can make it scared and teach it to chew when no one is around. Instead, distract it with a safe toy and praise it for chewing the toy. PDSA gives these criteria for a safe chew toy:

• designed for chewing, since soft toys, tug ropes, tennis balls and frisbees are for supervised play only;
• soft enough to indent with a fingernail, because anything harder risks fractured teeth or bleeding gums;
• bigger than the dog’s throat, so the whole toy cannot fit in the mouth; and
• safe if pieces are accidentally swallowed.

It advises against rawhide, which can splinter and potentially hurt a dog. Dogs Trust suggests rotating three or four toys at a time so they seem new, replacing damaged ones so they do not cause a blockage if swallowed, and offering a stuffed feeder, licking mat or long-lasting chew after exciting events to encourage calming behaviour. Items that could harm a dog, including poisons, should be kept out of reach, and Dogs Trust says to seek veterinary advice immediately if a dog has swallowed a non-food item or chewed anything that may be toxic.

Meeting the puppy’s other needs, and when to get help

Both charities link mouthing and chewing to unmet needs. Dogs Trust recommends short, ten-minute activities through the day, a routine with downtime after walks, play and training, and enough sleep. PDSA recommends daily exercise and playtime, and says not to regularly leave a dog alone for more than four hours, with some dogs unable to manage even that.

Dogs Trust says that when teething finishes, at around seven months, mouthing is typically much reduced, but there is no magic age. It says a puppy that mouths is different from a dog that bites aggressively, which usually shows tense body language, bared teeth and often growling, and that biting at any age can signal a dog that is worried or overwhelmed. If biting does not improve, if fear or frustration seems to be the cause, or if it improves and then returns, the advice is to contact its free Behaviour Support Line or a vet; PDSA suggests an accredited behaviourist for persistent chewing.

FAQs

Should a puppy be told off for biting?

No. Dogs Trust says avoid punishment, because raised voices or pushing the dog down can increase frustration and fear and worsen the behaviour.

Is mouthing always teething?

No. Dogs Trust lists over-excitement, play, fear, frustration, tiredness and pain as other causes, and advises a vet check for sudden or increased biting.

The bottom line

For puppies, Dogs Trust and PDSA agree on a calm, consistent approach: redirect mouths onto suitable toys, withdraw attention when teeth touch skin, avoid punishment, provide chews that pass PDSA’s fingernail and throat-size tests, and meet the puppy’s needs for exercise, play and sleep. Teething typically ends around seven months. Persistent or worsening biting, signs of fear or a sudden change in behaviour call for a vet or a qualified behaviourist.

Sources

• Mouthing, nipping and puppy biting: causes and how to stop it safely (dogstrust.org.uk)
• How to train my dog not to chew things (pdsa.org.uk)
• Destructive behaviour in dogs: how to stop it (dogstrust.org.uk)

A second dog can be a companion for the first, or a source of tension. Dogs Trust says some dogs become firm friends soon after meeting, others take longer, and some will never get on. PDSA warns that two dogs can mean twice the trouble. This guide summarises Dogs Trust’s guidance on introducing dogs, PDSA’s step-by-step guide and an RSPCA pet care factsheet on introducing dogs. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a qualified trainer or behaviourist. For puppies in particular, see this site’s guide to socialising a puppy, and for other species the guide to introducing a new pet to your household.

Deciding whether a second dog suits the first

PDSA’s starting point is the resident dog’s temperament: if the dog does not like other dogs, a second may not be a good idea, while a dog that enjoys others and is regularly socialised with them may benefit. It advises choosing a dog likely to get along, so an excitable puppy in the face of a relaxed older dog can cause tension, and considering an adult, since puppies cannot join walks until fully vaccinated and may take months to match an older dog’s pace.

Dogs Trust says each dog is an individual and some always prefer their own space, and that an elderly dog may not welcome a bouncy puppy. It recommends advice from a qualified dog behaviourist or trainer before looking for a dog, to help identify a good fit and ease the transition. This site’s guide to dog trainers, instructors and behaviourists explains the roles.

Before the dogs meet

Dogs Trust says both dogs’ vaccinations should be up to date before they meet, because infections can pass between them, and that a puppy remains vulnerable to infection from an existing dog until at least a week after completing its puppy vaccination course. For a purchase from a private seller, it suggests asking whether the dogs can meet on neutral ground before committing.

It also recommends scent swapping: placing a blanket or toy carrying one dog’s scent where the other can investigate it at its own pace, such as in the garden. The RSPCA factsheet makes the same point that scent is an important method of communication, suggesting the new dog should smell of “home” before the introduction. At home, Dogs Trust advises packing away the resident dog’s toys, bedding and bowls on arrival day to avoid competition, then laying out separate areas for each dog to eat, drink and rest after the first hour or two.

The first meeting

All three sources recommend neutral ground. Dogs Trust suggests a park or safe area close to home, with a helper so that each dog has its own handler. Each dog is on a lead, kept focused on its handler, walked separately at a distance, and then gradually brought closer. If both are relaxed they can greet on lead, sniff and then keep moving, repeating if both are comfortable. If either dog shows discomfort, the guidance is to move away and give space, and introductions can be spread over several short sessions across days or weeks.

PDSA describes a graded series: a first meeting at a distance, then a face-to-face greeting with loose leads, walks together, then off-lead play in a secure neutral area, and only then a lead-on meeting at home. The RSPCA factsheet suggests walking the dogs together on longer leads so that handlers are not too close if squabbling occurs, and removing toys or bones before the dogs enter the house.

Bringing the new dog home

Dogs Trust advises that on the first visit indoors both dogs wear indoor leads, or house lines, so they can be separated if needed. Start in a neutral area, not where the resident dog sleeps or in a bedroom, ideally the garden, and avoid narrow spaces and places where there may be competition for resources, such as a feeding area. Interactions should be overseen for the first days and weeks, with the dogs separated by rooms when that is not possible, and each given regular breaks from the other.

PDSA says each dog should have its own space and beds should not be placed together, since that can be intense. Feed the dogs in different rooms so that neither can reach the other’s bowl, and keep the resident dog’s routine as it was. The RSPCA adds that the dogs should not be left alone together until it is obvious they have become friends.

Reading tension

Dogs Trust lists low-level signs of discomfort such as walking away, turning the face away and lip licking; the response is to call one dog away or send each to a bed to increase distance. Barking, lunging or snapping are significant signs: separate both dogs immediately, check for injury and consult a vet if any is found, allow a cooling-off period of hours or days, and consult an accredited trainer or behaviourist before trying again. This site’s guide to dog body language covers the signals in more detail.

FAQs

Should the first meeting happen at home?

No. Dogs Trust, PDSA and the RSPCA all recommend neutral ground first, with the home meeting coming after outdoor meetings have gone well.

Is a puppy or an adult easier to introduce?

PDSA suggests considering an adult, because puppies may take months to match an older dog’s walks. Dogs Trust says puppies need extra supervision because they are still learning social skills.

The bottom line

The three charities agree on a slow, supervised route: judge whether the resident dog enjoys other dogs, ask a qualified trainer or behaviourist early, meet on neutral ground with a handler for each dog, move indoors only after outdoor meetings go well and keep separate food, beds and breaks for the first weeks. Growling, lunging or snapping calls for separation and professional advice, not persistence.

Sources

• Introducing a new puppy or dog to your dog (dogstrust.org.uk)
• Introducing dogs (pdsa.org.uk)
• Introducing dogs, RSPCA companion animals pet care factsheet (rspca.org.uk)

Cats have a reputation for independence, so owners often assume a cat can be left for a weekend with a bowl of food. Cats Protection and PDSA are more specific: there is a limit for a normal working day, a different one for kittens, and a firm minimum of checks once an absence runs past a day. This guide summarises their advice for cats left at home. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice; a vet should be consulted about any cat with medical needs. This site’s guides to choosing a boarding cattery and to hiring a pet sitter cover the other holiday options in more detail.

How long a cat can be left

Cats Protection says most cats are fine left for the day or overnight, but that the maximum is around 12 hours. It adds that a cat should not regularly be alone for 12 hours, although that is acceptable occasionally. Young kittens, elderly cats and cats with medical issues or other complex needs need more frequent checks. If an absence will be longer than 12 hours, or shorter for a cat with specific needs, or if an owner is away for long periods on consecutive days, the charity says to arrange a cat sitter, a friend, family member or neighbour to care for the cat at home, or a cattery.

Kittens differ. Cats Protection says young kittens should be left for a maximum of a few hours at a time, because they have small stomachs and need to be fed little and often, and that they should be checked at least every few hours until fully grown. It suggests getting a kitten used to being alone gradually, for five to 10 minutes a few times a day, building up over days and weeks.

Setting up the home before leaving

Cats Protection’s checklist for an absence of up to 12 hours covers the following:

• Food and water. Leave plenty of fresh water. Wet food spoils after a few hours, so leave only what the cat will eat in that time and be back for the next meal, or arrange for someone to come in. Dry food will still need replacing at least every 12 hours.
• Litter. Remove mess from the tray before leaving, top the litter up to about 3cm deep, and make sure the cat can reach the tray at all times. Trays should be emptied of mess at least twice a day and cleaned out fully at least weekly.
• Hazards. Put away wires, toys with string, human foods, medicines, cleaning products, poisonous plants and anything the cat could eat or become tangled in.
• Entertainment. Leave safe toys the cat can play with alone, such as ping pong balls, with nothing on a string, and consider food in a puzzle feeder.
• Hiding places and perches. Cardboard boxes, clear shelves and windowsills let an anxious cat hide or get up high.
• Exits. A cat that normally stays indoors needs windows and doors closed off. A cat that normally goes outside should not be shut in, since a sudden reduction in territory can cause stress, and a cat flap should be checked to make sure it works.
• Identification. Whether the cat goes out or not, it should be microchipped with up-to-date contact details.

The charity notes that most cats cope if they have food, water and entertainment, but a cat that is very bonded to its owner may show separation-related issues and loneliness.

Going away for longer

PDSA is unequivocal that a cat must never be left without anyone to check on it at least a couple of times a day when the owner is on holiday, even with an automatic feeder or cameras around the house. Cats Protection also advises a sitter who can visit at least twice a day to make sure the cat is well fed and safe, and says very young or old cats, or those with certain health conditions, may need more frequent visits. Both charities say that keeping a cat at home is generally the least stressful option, because a cat is generally less stressed in its own environment.

PDSA lists five options: a house sitter living in the home; a friend, neighbour, relative or pet sitter attending at least twice a day; a cattery licensed by the local council; home-from-home boarding, also licensed; or taking the cat along as a last resort. For a sitter, both charities recommend checking references, reviews and insurance, meeting the sitter and the cat before departure, and booking early with a backup in mind. PDSA adds checking for pet first aid training and, for a house sitter, DBS clearance.

Whoever is chosen, Cats Protection says to leave emergency contact details, the vet’s details, enough food, litter and any medication, and daily care instructions, and to ensure the sitter can get into the home easily, ideally with a backup key held by someone else. PDSA advises telling the vet about the absence, because the sitter may need the owner’s authorisation for care.

FAQs

Is an automatic feeder enough for a weekend away?

No. PDSA says a cat must never be left without anyone checking at least a couple of times a day, even with an automatic feeder or cameras.

Can a kitten be left for a full working day?

Cats Protection says young kittens should be left for only a few hours at a time and checked at least every few hours until fully grown.

The bottom line

Cats Protection’s upper limit for a cat left at home is around 12 hours, only occasionally, and much less for kittens, elderly cats and cats with complex needs. For absences beyond a day, both Cats Protection and PDSA call for a person to visit at least twice daily, or a licensed cattery or boarder, with the cat’s routines, vet details and emergency contacts written down for whoever is responsible.

Sources

• How long can you leave a cat alone? (cats.org.uk)
• Going on holiday without your cat (cats.org.uk)
• What to do with your cat when you go on holiday (pdsa.org.uk)

Hamsters are often bought as easy first pets, yet the RSPCA describes needs that are specific and often missed: deep digging bedding, a very large cage, a properly sized wheel, quiet daytime sleep and, for most species, life alone. This guide summarises the RSPCA’s hamster advice, with cage and wheel measurements from PDSA and Blue Cross. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice; a vet should be asked about any change in a hamster’s health. It follows this site’s guides to keeping gerbils and to guinea pig housing.

Where a hamster should live

The RSPCA says hamsters must be kept indoors, in a comfortable, dry, clean place that is quiet enough to rest undisturbed and free of draughts and damp. Indoor housing also prevents a torpor state that can be dangerous because pet hamsters do not have the fat reserves to survive long without food. Hamsters need predictable lighting, with lights going off at about the same time each night, and the RSPCA advises housing them away from televisions, computer screens, vacuum cleaners and running water, because they are sensitive to high-frequency sounds humans cannot hear and can find them stressful.

Cage size, floor and bedding

The RSPCA does not give a floor measurement, but says to use the largest cage possible. PDSA cites a minimum of 100cm by 50cm from the Veterinary Association for Animal Welfare, which it says is based in Germany, noting that it is a minimum and that bigger is better, and Blue Cross gives the ideal as no smaller than 100cm by 50cm of floor space and 50cm tall. PDSA adds that single-level cages suit better than tall multi-level ones because hamsters have poor eyesight and can fall.

On construction, the RSPCA says plastic cages are better than metal, that wooden cages should not be used, and that the floor should be solid, because wire mesh floors can lead to foot problems. Bedding must be deep enough to dig and burrow in. The RSPCA names dust-free wood shavings or granulated corn-cob, free of preservatives or chemicals, as a good compromise, and says peat discolours the coat. For nesting, it suggests good-quality hay, wood wool, shredded paper or cardboard, and warns against cotton wool and other fluffy bedding that separates into thin strands, because it can cause harm if eaten or become tangled around limbs.

Hiding places, wheels and daily routine

The RSPCA says each hamster needs a dark nest box big enough to sleep in, store food and move around, and that for hamsters kept in pairs the number of hiding places should exceed the number of animals by one. Wild hamsters are active at dusk and night and can run up to five miles a day, so the RSPCA recommends a running wheel that is solid, axle-free, large in diameter, such as one intended for rats, and ideally with a non-slip running surface. It stresses that a wheel should not be the only enrichment.

PDSA warns that many wheels sold with cages are too small and force a hamster to run with a curved back, which can cause long-term pain. Blue Cross says a hamster should be able to use a wheel without curving the spine or raising its head, and that wheels with spokes or mesh should be replaced because feet can become trapped.

Company and handling

The RSPCA says hamsters are generally solitary. Syrian and Chinese hamsters are not naturally sociable and should always live alone. Dwarf species such as Roborovski, Campbell’s Russian and winter white hamsters can sometimes live in pairs or trios if the group is formed early in life and is stable, but the RSPCA adds that even they do not need company and may fall out later, in which case they must be separated permanently. It strongly advises against mixing species and sexes, and says to keep unfamiliar hamsters apart even in separate cages, because scent can cause stress.

For handling, the RSPCA advises letting the hamster investigate hands in its own time, scooping it with both hands to sit on joined palms and holding it only a few inches over a stable surface. It should not be handled while resting or sleeping unless absolutely necessary, and it must never be left out unattended. PDSA recommends that children be supervised and ideally feed treats and stroke the hamster in its cage rather than lifting it, and gives a typical lifespan of two to three years.

Feeding

The RSPCA recommends a compound pellet ration or a mixture of seeds formulated for hamsters, with small quantities of greens, cleaned root vegetables and pieces of fruit such as apple. It says grapes and rhubarb should not be given because they can be poisonous to rodents. Wet or powdered food should only be offered if a vet advises it. Fresh water should always be available from a bottle with a valveless sipper tube, checked daily for leaks. If a hamster eats less, has moist droppings or a soiled rear end, the RSPCA says to talk to a vet immediately.

FAQs

Can two Syrian hamsters live together?

No. The RSPCA says Syrian hamsters should always live alone because they are not naturally sociable.

Is a hamster a good pet for a young child?

PDSA says children should be supervised and ideally should not hold hamsters, which can bite and are easily injured by rough handling.

The bottom line

The RSPCA’s hamster guidance comes down to space, depth and quiet: the biggest solid-floored cage available, deep digging bedding with safe nesting material, a correctly sized solid wheel, a dark nest box, predictable lighting and daytime sleep left undisturbed. Syrian hamsters live alone, dwarf hamsters only conditionally share, and any change in eating or droppings is a reason to contact a vet promptly.

Sources

• Creating a Good Home for Hamsters (rspca.org.uk)
• Understanding hamster behaviour (rspca.org.uk)
• Keeping Hamsters Together (rspca.org.uk)
• What To Feed a Pet Hamster (rspca.org.uk)
• Hamsters as pets (pdsa.org.uk)
• Hamster Care (bluecross.org.uk)

Cats Protection, a UK cat welfare charity, says cats and children can live together peacefully, and that most problems can be avoided with planning and supervision. This guide summarises its advice for families with children who are older than newborns; for babies, see this site’s guide to a new baby and the family pet. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or a qualified cat behaviourist.

Choosing the right cat for a family

Cats Protection says every cat is unique, so the cat should suit the child’s age, the family’s lifestyle and the cat’s own needs. A timid cat, for example, may become stressed, appear aggressive or hide more in a loud, busy home. For a family home it suggests looking for a cat that is confident and friendly, not too stressed by loud noises or changes, happy to be stroked and handled, calm and curious with new people and, ideally, has a positive history with children. For the adoption process, see this site’s guide to adopting a rescue dog or cat.

The charity cautions that a kitten is not always the best choice. Kittens need training and lots of care and are still learning to use their claws, which makes rough play more likely. It says young children can be loud and unpredictable and do not yet understand that a kitten is not a soft toy, so a slightly older, calmer cat may tolerate a young child better.

Settling a new cat in

Cats Protection advises taking time. It suggests bringing home something familiar such as the cat’s bedding, and keeping the new cat in a separate room with the door closed and everything it needs in one place, so that it can adjust at its own pace. The cat should get used to its sanctuary room before meeting family members. The charity says it is normal for new cats to be stressed by the change, and that refusing to interact, eating less, scratching and spraying are signs of stress; it advises being patient and contacting a vet if struggling.

Creating safe spaces

All cats, Cats Protection says, need peaceful places to eat, sleep and rest, ideally in a quiet part of the home. The bed and food should be away from busy areas such as the living room or hallway. With very young children, a baby gate can create a child-free area. The litter tray should be kept out of the way, which gives the cat a safe place to toilet and stops children messing with the contents. Children’s sandpits should be covered when not in use, or the cat may mistake them for a litter tray. High places such as cat trees or wall shelves let the cat observe family life away from grabby hands, although it says cats are better at climbing up than getting down, so high places should be easy to get down from.

The first meeting

The charity says to teach children from day one how to treat a cat respectfully. Children need to understand that cats like to be left in peace when eating, drinking, toileting or sleeping, are frightened by loud noises and dislike being grabbed without warning. It recommends always supervising interactions and giving the cat the option to run and hide. For a first introduction it suggests:

• Waiting until the cat is settled and comfortable with the adults, then having children sit quietly in a neutral space, with young children behind a baby gate if needed.
• Letting the cat sniff a child’s outstretched hand at its own pace, and perhaps giving the cat some of the child’s clothing beforehand so the smell is familiar.
• Allowing the cat to approach first, never forcing it closer or keeping it in the room if scared.
• Building up time together slowly and showing children where cats do and do not like to be touched.
• Encouraging other activities than stroking, such as fishing-rod toys, throwing bouncy balls and giving treats in moderation.

Teaching children to handle and read a cat

Cats Protection suggests showing a child how to stroke with an open hand and a soft, gentle stroke, noting that babies and toddlers may poke, pat or grab skin. Holding a toddler’s hand to demonstrate can help, along with praise for gentleness. For children old enough to lift a cat, it advises picking it up with one hand supporting the chest and the other the hind legs, holding it securely to the chest, and placing the cat gently on the floor if it wriggles. It says children should never pull a hiding cat out or squeeze in next to it, because cornering a cat might lead to a scratch or bite.

Children should also learn body language. Swishing tails, ruffled fur and hissing are obvious warnings. Subtler signs of discomfort listed by the charity include dilated pupils, ears turned out to the side or back, nose licking, a fast twitching tail tip, sudden quick grooming and looking away. If the cat is given space at that point, it says, the cat is unlikely to escalate. See also the site’s guide to cat body language.

If the cat is not coping

A cat adjusting well to life with children should be eating, drinking, sleeping and following normal routines. Cats Protection says behaviour changes, reluctance to come into the house or be near children, hiding, spraying or aggression suggest the cat is unhappy. It advises speaking to a vet first to rule out medical reasons, then a qualified cat behaviourist.

Frequently asked questions

Is a kitten a good first cat for a family with toddlers?

Cats Protection says kittens and children are not always the best mix and suggests that a slightly older, calmer cat may be better for young children.

The bottom line

Cats Protection’s advice is to match the cat to the household, give it a quiet space and litter tray children cannot reach, introduce it slowly on its own terms, supervise every interaction and teach children gentle handling and cat body language. Persistent hiding, spraying or aggression is a reason to involve a vet and then a behaviourist.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Cats and Children”
• Cats Protection, “How to teach your child to care for and bond with your cat”

Gerbils are small, active and sociable, but the RSPCA warns that their needs are complex and that they are easily injured by rough or careless handling. The most commonly kept pet species is the Mongolian gerbil. This guide summarises the RSPCA’s advice on housing, company, food and handling. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet, who should be consulted about any change in a gerbil’s health.

What kind of animal a gerbil is

The RSPCA describes gerbils as burrowing rodents adapted to desert environments in Africa, India and Asia. It says they can live for up to three to four years and dig deep burrows. They gnaw to keep their teeth short, because the teeth never stop growing, and they cannot climb well because fur covers the soles of their feet. Because they are prey animals, the RSPCA says, they are naturally timid and rely on burrows to feel safe from predators.

Housing: the gerbilarium

The RSPCA advises a special gerbilarium rather than a barred cage. It should be large enough to provide shelter, chances to dig and space to exercise, with solid glass walls, a secure wire-mesh top and a solid floor so that bedding can be provided. Cages with metal bars are not recommended, because gerbils may slip and injure their legs or feet and may gnaw the bars, which can damage their teeth.

• Bedding depth. The RSPCA recommends 20 to 30cm of bedding deep enough for burrows, in an enclosure ideally about 50cm high so that an adult, roughly 12cm tall, can dig and still stand upright.
• Suitable bedding. A mix of rough-grained woodchips and hay gives structure to burrows. It says garden soil is not recommended because it may contain harmful bacteria or parasites, and sawdust should not be used because it may cause respiratory problems.
• Nesting material. Gerbils should always have access to material they can shred, such as ink-free cardboard, paper and hay. The RSPCA warns against materials that separate into thin strands, such as cotton wool, saying they pose a serious welfare risk.
• Enrichment. It lists a rough-surfaced object such as a stone, tubes and tunnels of at least 5cm diameter to avoid gerbils getting stuck, and wood or hay tunnels rather than plastic, which gerbils will gnaw. A running wheel can help with exercise, but it should be a good-quality, solid, axle-free wheel of large diameter, such as one intended for rats, and should not be the only enrichment.

Keeping the home comfortable

The RSPCA says the enclosure should be indoors, dry and draught-free, away from direct sunlight and radiators. It gives an ideal temperature range of 20 to 24 degrees Celsius. Because gerbils communicate using ultrasonic frequencies, it advises keeping them away from things that generate ultrasound, such as televisions, computer screens, vacuum cleaners and sources of running water. It recommends a deep clean every two to three weeks, keeping a little used but unsoiled bedding because removing all odours can be stressful and may trigger fighting.

Company

The RSPCA says gerbils need to live with other gerbils and should never be kept alone. They can be housed in same-sex pairs or groups if the groups are formed early in life and are stable, ideally young litter mates or members of a harmonious group. Males and females should not be kept together unless the owner can provide for their young and find good homes for the offspring. Additional members should not normally be added later, because established groups are unlikely to accept new animals, with a possible exception for juveniles under five weeks old. Where that is attempted, the RSPCA suggests housing the animals separately but next to each other for about a week, swapping some used bedding, and monitoring them closely. It also advises against putting unfamiliar adult gerbils in adjacent enclosures, which it says they can find frustrating and stressful.

The RSPCA adds that other pets, particularly dogs and cats, must not be able to reach gerbils, which are prey animals.

Food and water

Gerbils need a good-quality balanced diet formulated for gerbils, either compound pellets or a seed mix, fed according to the manufacturer’s guidance. The RSPCA suggests scattering food on the surface of the bedding to prevent squabbling and let them forage. Fruit such as pear, melon, apple and orange, and vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, pumpkin and fennel, can supplement the diet, and pumpkin seeds are a healthy treat. It warns against grapes and rhubarb, which it describes as poisonous to rodents, and against excessive amounts of fatty seeds such as sunflower, which can cause obesity. Fresh water should always be available in a bottle with a metal sipper tube, checked daily. Because gerbils hoard, stale food should be removed daily, and dietary changes should be gradual. If eating or drinking changes, or faeces become moist or hindquarters soiled, the RSPCA says to go to a vet straight away.

Handling

The RSPCA says gerbils do not like being picked up and may become scared and aggressive if they feel threatened. It suggests building trust gradually: first getting the gerbils used to a person’s voice and presence, then gentle stroking, then daily interaction, never forcing handling. Gerbils should be picked up by cupping them gently with two hands and supporting the body. They should never be lifted by the tail, because they can shed the outer layer of skin and hair, leaving bone and muscle exposed. They should not be scruffed or held at height and should be handled above a table or while sitting down. The RSPCA also says never to leave gerbils out of their gerbilarium unattended or overnight.

Frequently asked questions

Can a single gerbil be kept alone?

No. The RSPCA says gerbils need to live with other gerbils and should never be kept on their own.

The bottom line

The RSPCA’s advice comes down to a deep-bedded, solid-walled gerbilarium, a stable same-sex group, gnawing, shredding and burrowing opportunities, a formulated diet with careful treats, and gentle handling that is never forced. Anyone unsure whether they can meet those needs should think carefully before taking on gerbils.

Sources

• RSPCA, “Keeping Gerbils As Pets”
• RSPCA, “Creating a Good Home For Gerbils”
• RSPCA, “Keeping Gerbils Together”
• RSPCA, “What To Feed Your Gerbils”
• RSPCA, “Gerbil Behaviour and Body Language”

Two cosmetic procedures on dogs, docking tails and cropping ears, are regulated by the Animal Welfare Act 2006 in England and Wales. Anyone buying a puppy, taking in an imported dog or seeing a docked or cropped dog at a show may want to understand what the law says. This article summarises the Act, the England-only regulations that create a narrow working-dog exemption, the RSPCA’s welfare position and the 2025 Act on imports. It is general information, not legal advice, and it does not cover Scotland or Northern Ireland.

Tail docking: section 6 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006 (England and Wales)

Section 6 makes it an offence to remove the whole or any part of a dog’s tail otherwise than for the purpose of its medical treatment, or to cause another person to do so. An owner or person responsible for the dog also commits an offence if someone else docks the tail and the owner permitted it or failed to take reasonable steps to prevent it. Section 6 also creates an offence of knowingly giving false information to a veterinary surgeon in connection with a certificate.

The Kennel Club notes that, while there are exemptions for listed working breeds and crossbreeds, docking is illegal in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland, and that a dog with a docked tail cannot be shown at events in England and Wales where the public pay admission unless it is demonstrating working ability. Section 6 itself contains the show offence.

The working-dog exemption

Section 6 exempts a certified working dog that is not more than five days old. A veterinary surgeon must certify, under regulations, that two conditions are met. First, evidence has been produced that the dog is likely to be used for work in connection with law enforcement, armed forces activities, emergency rescue, lawful pest control or the lawful shooting of animals. Second, the dog is of a type specified in regulations.

For England, the Docking of Working Dogs’ Tails (England) Regulations 2007 apply in England only. Their Schedule 1 lists the specified types as hunt, point and retrieve breeds, spaniels and terriers, of any type or combination of types. Under regulation 3, the vet must be satisfied that the dam is of one or more of those types, must reasonably believe the puppy is not more than five days old, and must be shown the dam, a signed and dated owner statement and specified evidence of the intended work. That evidence can be identification from an armed force, emergency rescue body, police, prison service or HMRC, evidence of lawful pest control, a current shotgun or firearm certificate, or a letter from a gamekeeper, land-occupier, shoot organiser or similar person. Under regulation 4, a docked dog must be microchipped by a vet, or a vet nurse under supervision, using a chip meeting the stated ISO standards, and section 6 requires that identification to be done before the dog is three months old.

Ear cropping: section 5 (England and Wales)

Section 5 of the Act covers mutilation, meaning a procedure that involves interference with the sensitive tissues or bone structure of a protected animal other than for medical treatment. Section 5(6) provides that the section does not apply to removing part of a dog’s tail, which section 6 covers separately. The RSPCA states that ear cropping is illegal in England and Wales under section 5. It describes the procedure as an entirely unnecessary surgery in which a dog’s ears are removed or altered, says it has no benefits for the dog and can cause permanent damage, and says the claims that it prevents ear infections or injuries are untrue.

Dogs brought in from abroad

Both the RSPCA and the Kennel Club say that cropped ears remain legal in some other countries and that dogs with cropped ears have been imported. The Kennel Club states that the law permits importing such dogs, and the RSPCA’s ear-cropping page says the same.

The Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025 addresses this. Section 1 lets the appropriate national authority make regulations about bringing dogs, cats and ferrets into the United Kingdom, and requires the first regulations for each of England, Scotland and Wales to prohibit bringing in dogs and cats that have been mutilated, as well as animals under six months old and those more than 42 days pregnant. The Act defines mutilated as having undergone a procedure that interferes with sensitive tissues or bone structure other than for medical treatment. Under section 8, sections 1 to 7 come into force on a day the Secretary of State appoints by regulations, and legislation.gov.uk records that section 1 was not in force at Royal Assent. The prohibition therefore depends on those regulations being made and commenced.

What buyers and owners can take from this

• A docked puppy in England is lawful only if it was certified as a working dog at five days or less, and it must be microchipped as a docked dog.
• Docking or cropping carried out by someone else with the owner’s permission can also be an offence for the owner.

Frequently asked questions

Can a vet dock a pet dog’s tail in England?

Not for cosmetic reasons. Section 6 allows removal for medical treatment, and otherwise only the certified working-dog exemption for puppies not more than five days old.

Where can suspected cropping be reported?

The Kennel Club suggests contacting the relevant Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals: the RSPCA for England and Wales, the SSPCA for Scotland and the USPCA for Northern Ireland.

The bottom line

In England and Wales, cosmetic tail docking and ear cropping are offences under sections 5 and 6 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, and the only tail-docking exemption described here is the vet-certified working-dog route for puppies of five days or less, which the 2007 regulations set out for England. Imports of dogs with cropped ears were described by the RSPCA and Kennel Club as still permitted, and the 2025 Act provides powers to change that once regulations take effect.

Sources

• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 6: Docking of dogs’ tails”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 5: Mutilation”
• legislation.gov.uk, “The Docking of Working Dogs’ Tails (England) Regulations 2007”
• RSPCA, “Dog ear cropping”
• The Kennel Club, “Docking and cropping”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025, section 1”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025, section 8: Extent, commencement and short title”