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Cats Protection, a UK cat welfare charity, says cats and children can live together peacefully, and that most problems can be avoided with planning and supervision. This guide summarises its advice for families with children who are older than newborns; for babies, see this site’s guide to a new baby and the family pet. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or a qualified cat behaviourist.

Choosing the right cat for a family

Cats Protection says every cat is unique, so the cat should suit the child’s age, the family’s lifestyle and the cat’s own needs. A timid cat, for example, may become stressed, appear aggressive or hide more in a loud, busy home. For a family home it suggests looking for a cat that is confident and friendly, not too stressed by loud noises or changes, happy to be stroked and handled, calm and curious with new people and, ideally, has a positive history with children. For the adoption process, see this site’s guide to adopting a rescue dog or cat.

The charity cautions that a kitten is not always the best choice. Kittens need training and lots of care and are still learning to use their claws, which makes rough play more likely. It says young children can be loud and unpredictable and do not yet understand that a kitten is not a soft toy, so a slightly older, calmer cat may tolerate a young child better.

Settling a new cat in

Cats Protection advises taking time. It suggests bringing home something familiar such as the cat’s bedding, and keeping the new cat in a separate room with the door closed and everything it needs in one place, so that it can adjust at its own pace. The cat should get used to its sanctuary room before meeting family members. The charity says it is normal for new cats to be stressed by the change, and that refusing to interact, eating less, scratching and spraying are signs of stress; it advises being patient and contacting a vet if struggling.

Creating safe spaces

All cats, Cats Protection says, need peaceful places to eat, sleep and rest, ideally in a quiet part of the home. The bed and food should be away from busy areas such as the living room or hallway. With very young children, a baby gate can create a child-free area. The litter tray should be kept out of the way, which gives the cat a safe place to toilet and stops children messing with the contents. Children’s sandpits should be covered when not in use, or the cat may mistake them for a litter tray. High places such as cat trees or wall shelves let the cat observe family life away from grabby hands, although it says cats are better at climbing up than getting down, so high places should be easy to get down from.

The first meeting

The charity says to teach children from day one how to treat a cat respectfully. Children need to understand that cats like to be left in peace when eating, drinking, toileting or sleeping, are frightened by loud noises and dislike being grabbed without warning. It recommends always supervising interactions and giving the cat the option to run and hide. For a first introduction it suggests:

• Waiting until the cat is settled and comfortable with the adults, then having children sit quietly in a neutral space, with young children behind a baby gate if needed.
• Letting the cat sniff a child’s outstretched hand at its own pace, and perhaps giving the cat some of the child’s clothing beforehand so the smell is familiar.
• Allowing the cat to approach first, never forcing it closer or keeping it in the room if scared.
• Building up time together slowly and showing children where cats do and do not like to be touched.
• Encouraging other activities than stroking, such as fishing-rod toys, throwing bouncy balls and giving treats in moderation.

Teaching children to handle and read a cat

Cats Protection suggests showing a child how to stroke with an open hand and a soft, gentle stroke, noting that babies and toddlers may poke, pat or grab skin. Holding a toddler’s hand to demonstrate can help, along with praise for gentleness. For children old enough to lift a cat, it advises picking it up with one hand supporting the chest and the other the hind legs, holding it securely to the chest, and placing the cat gently on the floor if it wriggles. It says children should never pull a hiding cat out or squeeze in next to it, because cornering a cat might lead to a scratch or bite.

Children should also learn body language. Swishing tails, ruffled fur and hissing are obvious warnings. Subtler signs of discomfort listed by the charity include dilated pupils, ears turned out to the side or back, nose licking, a fast twitching tail tip, sudden quick grooming and looking away. If the cat is given space at that point, it says, the cat is unlikely to escalate. See also the site’s guide to cat body language.

If the cat is not coping

A cat adjusting well to life with children should be eating, drinking, sleeping and following normal routines. Cats Protection says behaviour changes, reluctance to come into the house or be near children, hiding, spraying or aggression suggest the cat is unhappy. It advises speaking to a vet first to rule out medical reasons, then a qualified cat behaviourist.

Frequently asked questions

Is a kitten a good first cat for a family with toddlers?

Cats Protection says kittens and children are not always the best mix and suggests that a slightly older, calmer cat may be better for young children.

The bottom line

Cats Protection’s advice is to match the cat to the household, give it a quiet space and litter tray children cannot reach, introduce it slowly on its own terms, supervise every interaction and teach children gentle handling and cat body language. Persistent hiding, spraying or aggression is a reason to involve a vet and then a behaviourist.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Cats and Children”
• Cats Protection, “How to teach your child to care for and bond with your cat”

Gerbils are small, active and sociable, but the RSPCA warns that their needs are complex and that they are easily injured by rough or careless handling. The most commonly kept pet species is the Mongolian gerbil. This guide summarises the RSPCA’s advice on housing, company, food and handling. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet, who should be consulted about any change in a gerbil’s health.

What kind of animal a gerbil is

The RSPCA describes gerbils as burrowing rodents adapted to desert environments in Africa, India and Asia. It says they can live for up to three to four years and dig deep burrows. They gnaw to keep their teeth short, because the teeth never stop growing, and they cannot climb well because fur covers the soles of their feet. Because they are prey animals, the RSPCA says, they are naturally timid and rely on burrows to feel safe from predators.

Housing: the gerbilarium

The RSPCA advises a special gerbilarium rather than a barred cage. It should be large enough to provide shelter, chances to dig and space to exercise, with solid glass walls, a secure wire-mesh top and a solid floor so that bedding can be provided. Cages with metal bars are not recommended, because gerbils may slip and injure their legs or feet and may gnaw the bars, which can damage their teeth.

• Bedding depth. The RSPCA recommends 20 to 30cm of bedding deep enough for burrows, in an enclosure ideally about 50cm high so that an adult, roughly 12cm tall, can dig and still stand upright.
• Suitable bedding. A mix of rough-grained woodchips and hay gives structure to burrows. It says garden soil is not recommended because it may contain harmful bacteria or parasites, and sawdust should not be used because it may cause respiratory problems.
• Nesting material. Gerbils should always have access to material they can shred, such as ink-free cardboard, paper and hay. The RSPCA warns against materials that separate into thin strands, such as cotton wool, saying they pose a serious welfare risk.
• Enrichment. It lists a rough-surfaced object such as a stone, tubes and tunnels of at least 5cm diameter to avoid gerbils getting stuck, and wood or hay tunnels rather than plastic, which gerbils will gnaw. A running wheel can help with exercise, but it should be a good-quality, solid, axle-free wheel of large diameter, such as one intended for rats, and should not be the only enrichment.

Keeping the home comfortable

The RSPCA says the enclosure should be indoors, dry and draught-free, away from direct sunlight and radiators. It gives an ideal temperature range of 20 to 24 degrees Celsius. Because gerbils communicate using ultrasonic frequencies, it advises keeping them away from things that generate ultrasound, such as televisions, computer screens, vacuum cleaners and sources of running water. It recommends a deep clean every two to three weeks, keeping a little used but unsoiled bedding because removing all odours can be stressful and may trigger fighting.

Company

The RSPCA says gerbils need to live with other gerbils and should never be kept alone. They can be housed in same-sex pairs or groups if the groups are formed early in life and are stable, ideally young litter mates or members of a harmonious group. Males and females should not be kept together unless the owner can provide for their young and find good homes for the offspring. Additional members should not normally be added later, because established groups are unlikely to accept new animals, with a possible exception for juveniles under five weeks old. Where that is attempted, the RSPCA suggests housing the animals separately but next to each other for about a week, swapping some used bedding, and monitoring them closely. It also advises against putting unfamiliar adult gerbils in adjacent enclosures, which it says they can find frustrating and stressful.

The RSPCA adds that other pets, particularly dogs and cats, must not be able to reach gerbils, which are prey animals.

Food and water

Gerbils need a good-quality balanced diet formulated for gerbils, either compound pellets or a seed mix, fed according to the manufacturer’s guidance. The RSPCA suggests scattering food on the surface of the bedding to prevent squabbling and let them forage. Fruit such as pear, melon, apple and orange, and vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, pumpkin and fennel, can supplement the diet, and pumpkin seeds are a healthy treat. It warns against grapes and rhubarb, which it describes as poisonous to rodents, and against excessive amounts of fatty seeds such as sunflower, which can cause obesity. Fresh water should always be available in a bottle with a metal sipper tube, checked daily. Because gerbils hoard, stale food should be removed daily, and dietary changes should be gradual. If eating or drinking changes, or faeces become moist or hindquarters soiled, the RSPCA says to go to a vet straight away.

Handling

The RSPCA says gerbils do not like being picked up and may become scared and aggressive if they feel threatened. It suggests building trust gradually: first getting the gerbils used to a person’s voice and presence, then gentle stroking, then daily interaction, never forcing handling. Gerbils should be picked up by cupping them gently with two hands and supporting the body. They should never be lifted by the tail, because they can shed the outer layer of skin and hair, leaving bone and muscle exposed. They should not be scruffed or held at height and should be handled above a table or while sitting down. The RSPCA also says never to leave gerbils out of their gerbilarium unattended or overnight.

Frequently asked questions

Can a single gerbil be kept alone?

No. The RSPCA says gerbils need to live with other gerbils and should never be kept on their own.

The bottom line

The RSPCA’s advice comes down to a deep-bedded, solid-walled gerbilarium, a stable same-sex group, gnawing, shredding and burrowing opportunities, a formulated diet with careful treats, and gentle handling that is never forced. Anyone unsure whether they can meet those needs should think carefully before taking on gerbils.

Sources

• RSPCA, “Keeping Gerbils As Pets”
• RSPCA, “Creating a Good Home For Gerbils”
• RSPCA, “Keeping Gerbils Together”
• RSPCA, “What To Feed Your Gerbils”
• RSPCA, “Gerbil Behaviour and Body Language”

Two cosmetic procedures on dogs, docking tails and cropping ears, are regulated by the Animal Welfare Act 2006 in England and Wales. Anyone buying a puppy, taking in an imported dog or seeing a docked or cropped dog at a show may want to understand what the law says. This article summarises the Act, the England-only regulations that create a narrow working-dog exemption, the RSPCA’s welfare position and the 2025 Act on imports. It is general information, not legal advice, and it does not cover Scotland or Northern Ireland.

Tail docking: section 6 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006 (England and Wales)

Section 6 makes it an offence to remove the whole or any part of a dog’s tail otherwise than for the purpose of its medical treatment, or to cause another person to do so. An owner or person responsible for the dog also commits an offence if someone else docks the tail and the owner permitted it or failed to take reasonable steps to prevent it. Section 6 also creates an offence of knowingly giving false information to a veterinary surgeon in connection with a certificate.

The Kennel Club notes that, while there are exemptions for listed working breeds and crossbreeds, docking is illegal in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland, and that a dog with a docked tail cannot be shown at events in England and Wales where the public pay admission unless it is demonstrating working ability. Section 6 itself contains the show offence.

The working-dog exemption

Section 6 exempts a certified working dog that is not more than five days old. A veterinary surgeon must certify, under regulations, that two conditions are met. First, evidence has been produced that the dog is likely to be used for work in connection with law enforcement, armed forces activities, emergency rescue, lawful pest control or the lawful shooting of animals. Second, the dog is of a type specified in regulations.

For England, the Docking of Working Dogs’ Tails (England) Regulations 2007 apply in England only. Their Schedule 1 lists the specified types as hunt, point and retrieve breeds, spaniels and terriers, of any type or combination of types. Under regulation 3, the vet must be satisfied that the dam is of one or more of those types, must reasonably believe the puppy is not more than five days old, and must be shown the dam, a signed and dated owner statement and specified evidence of the intended work. That evidence can be identification from an armed force, emergency rescue body, police, prison service or HMRC, evidence of lawful pest control, a current shotgun or firearm certificate, or a letter from a gamekeeper, land-occupier, shoot organiser or similar person. Under regulation 4, a docked dog must be microchipped by a vet, or a vet nurse under supervision, using a chip meeting the stated ISO standards, and section 6 requires that identification to be done before the dog is three months old.

Ear cropping: section 5 (England and Wales)

Section 5 of the Act covers mutilation, meaning a procedure that involves interference with the sensitive tissues or bone structure of a protected animal other than for medical treatment. Section 5(6) provides that the section does not apply to removing part of a dog’s tail, which section 6 covers separately. The RSPCA states that ear cropping is illegal in England and Wales under section 5. It describes the procedure as an entirely unnecessary surgery in which a dog’s ears are removed or altered, says it has no benefits for the dog and can cause permanent damage, and says the claims that it prevents ear infections or injuries are untrue.

Dogs brought in from abroad

Both the RSPCA and the Kennel Club say that cropped ears remain legal in some other countries and that dogs with cropped ears have been imported. The Kennel Club states that the law permits importing such dogs, and the RSPCA’s ear-cropping page says the same.

The Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025 addresses this. Section 1 lets the appropriate national authority make regulations about bringing dogs, cats and ferrets into the United Kingdom, and requires the first regulations for each of England, Scotland and Wales to prohibit bringing in dogs and cats that have been mutilated, as well as animals under six months old and those more than 42 days pregnant. The Act defines mutilated as having undergone a procedure that interferes with sensitive tissues or bone structure other than for medical treatment. Under section 8, sections 1 to 7 come into force on a day the Secretary of State appoints by regulations, and legislation.gov.uk records that section 1 was not in force at Royal Assent. The prohibition therefore depends on those regulations being made and commenced.

What buyers and owners can take from this

• A docked puppy in England is lawful only if it was certified as a working dog at five days or less, and it must be microchipped as a docked dog.
• Docking or cropping carried out by someone else with the owner’s permission can also be an offence for the owner.

Frequently asked questions

Can a vet dock a pet dog’s tail in England?

Not for cosmetic reasons. Section 6 allows removal for medical treatment, and otherwise only the certified working-dog exemption for puppies not more than five days old.

Where can suspected cropping be reported?

The Kennel Club suggests contacting the relevant Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals: the RSPCA for England and Wales, the SSPCA for Scotland and the USPCA for Northern Ireland.

The bottom line

In England and Wales, cosmetic tail docking and ear cropping are offences under sections 5 and 6 of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, and the only tail-docking exemption described here is the vet-certified working-dog route for puppies of five days or less, which the 2007 regulations set out for England. Imports of dogs with cropped ears were described by the RSPCA and Kennel Club as still permitted, and the 2025 Act provides powers to change that once regulations take effect.

Sources

• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 6: Docking of dogs’ tails”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare Act 2006, section 5: Mutilation”
• legislation.gov.uk, “The Docking of Working Dogs’ Tails (England) Regulations 2007”
• RSPCA, “Dog ear cropping”
• The Kennel Club, “Docking and cropping”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025, section 1”
• legislation.gov.uk, “Animal Welfare (Import of Dogs, Cats and Ferrets) Act 2025, section 8: Extent, commencement and short title”

Cats that go outdoors often hunt, and some bring mice, birds or other small animals into the house. Cats Protection, a UK cat welfare charity, says hunting is a natural behaviour that cannot always be stopped completely, but that owners can reduce it. A controlled trial published in Current Biology in 2021 tested several practical measures. This article summarises both. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for advice from a vet or a qualified cat behaviourist.

Why cats hunt

Cats Protection explains that cats are predators with a natural instinct to hunt, and that the drive is not motivated by hunger: even well-fed cats have an inbuilt need to chase and catch things. It says the sequence of stalking, pouncing, playing and killing releases feel-good hormones called endorphins. In the wild, it notes, cats spend a lot of time on hunting expeditions, whereas pet cats are given a bowl of food that takes little time to eat and makes little use of their senses. The charity therefore stresses giving cats plenty of chances to play so that they stay mentally stimulated.

Why cats bring prey home

Cats Protection says the popular idea that a cat is presenting a gift, or teaching its owner to hunt, is a myth. Its explanation is that home is where the cat feels safe and secure. A cat may not want to eat the catch where another animal could steal it, so it takes it to its core territory to eat undisturbed or store for later. The charity adds that this can be read as a sign the cat feels safe with its owner. It also explains that the apparent play with prey, catching and releasing repeatedly, is a hunting technique that tires the animal and reduces the cat’s chance of being injured.

What Cats Protection recommends

• Keep cats in at dawn and dusk. Cats and their prey are most active then, so the charity advises keeping cats indoors at night.
• Provide regular play. It suggests interactive play sessions and feeding toys to redirect the hunting drive, for example fishing-rod toys that let the cat stalk and pounce, with the cat allowed to catch the toy now and then to avoid frustration. Very short games of one to two minutes are fine, it says, and older cats may enjoy play three or four times a day.
• Protect garden birds. It advises not feeding wildlife on the ground, keeping bird tables away from fences or hiding places, hanging feeders from a tall, thin shepherd’s hook that cats cannot climb, and making bird table posts hard to climb.

What a controlled trial found

Cecchetti and colleagues at the University of Exeter reported a controlled and replicated trial in Current Biology in 2021 comparing non-invasive measures with existing devices that impede hunting. They measured the number of animals cats captured and brought home, relative to controls and to the period before treatment. The abstract reports:

• Households given a high meat protein, grain-free food recorded a 36% decrease in animals brought home.
• Households that introduced 5 to 10 minutes of daily object play recorded a 25% decrease.
• Puzzle feeders increased the numbers by 33%.
• Birdsbesafe collar covers reduced the number of birds brought home by 42% but had no discernible effect on mammals.
• Cat bells had no discernible effect.

The authors concluded that reductions can come from positive contributions to cat nutrition and behaviour that reduce the tendency to hunt, rather than from impeding hunting. Any change of a cat’s diet is best discussed with a vet.

How the two sources fit together

The trial’s finding on play matches the charity’s emphasis on regular interactive play. Cats Protection describes puzzle feeders as entertainment for indoor cats, and the trial did not find that they reduce prey brought home.

If a cat brings something in

Cats Protection says owners should not punish the cat, because it will not understand what it has done wrong, and shouting causes stress that could lead to other unwanted behaviours. It advises trying not to react. If the animal is dead, it suggests keeping it from the cat, wearing gloves, double-bagging small animals such as mice, rats, rabbits, hedgehogs and small birds and putting them in the household waste bin, then washing hands thoroughly. For larger animals, it advises contacting the local authority. If the animal is alive, keep the cat in another room, encourage the animal to leave through a clear route and keep the cat inside for a while afterwards. For an injured animal, the charity lists the RSPCA in England and Wales, the Scottish SPCA in Scotland and local council animal welfare enforcement in Northern Ireland.

Frequently asked questions

Does feeding a cat more stop it hunting?

Not according to Cats Protection, which says the urge to hunt is not driven by hunger and continues in well-fed cats.

Do bells stop cats catching birds?

In the Exeter trial, cat bells had no discernible effect on the numbers of animals brought home.

The bottom line

Hunting is an instinct rather than a sign of hunger or a gift, so the most useful steps in the sources are regular interactive play, keeping cats in around dawn and dusk and keeping garden feeders out of reach. The Exeter trial found that daily play and a high meat protein food each cut prey brought home, and that collar covers cut bird captures but not mammals. Punishing a cat is not recommended.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Behaviour focus: hunting”
• Cats Protection, “Why do cats bring you dead animals?”
• Cats Protection, “Cats and Play”
• Cecchetti M, Crowley SL, Goodwin CED, McDonald RA, “Provision of High Meat Content Food and Object Play Reduce Predation of Wild Animals by Domestic Cats”, Current Biology (2021)

Barking is normal dog communication, and the question for most owners is not how to end it but how to reduce it to a level that suits the dog, the household and the neighbours. Dogs Trust and the RSPCA, two UK animal welfare charities, both say that the useful first step is to find out why a dog is barking. This guide summarises their welfare advice and, separately, what GOV.UK says about complaints about barking dogs in England. It is general information, not a substitute for a vet or a qualified behaviourist.

Why dogs bark

The RSPCA describes barking as a form of communication and a completely normal behaviour. A dog may bark when excited, frustrated, bored or scared, to tell someone to stay away, to ask for something such as a favourite toy, or when distressed, for example when left alone. Dogs Trust adds that some breeds bark more because of historic working roles, and that personality, learnt experience, genetics and health all play a part.

Dogs Trust says the two main reasons dogs bark are trying to make something they think is good happen, and trying to stop something they think is bad from happening. It explains that if a dog barks at a passer-by who walks on, the dog concludes that barking worked and is likelier to repeat it.

Common triggers

• Alert or territorial barking. Dogs Trust says this is often rooted in anxiety about noises, sights or smells outside the home, and that a dog that is always on alert is likely to bark at more and more things.
• Attention or mealtime barking. A dog may learn that barking brings attention. Telling the dog off can accidentally reward the behaviour, because the dog has received attention.
• Being left alone. The RSPCA cites research that eight out of ten dogs experience stress when left alone and may show it through barking.
• Fear or frustration. Dogs Trust says frustration arises when a dog cannot reach something it wants, and that barking at something frightening is a way to make it go away.
• Excitement and play. Many dogs bark when excited or playful, so barking is not always a sign of unhappiness.

Check the vet first if barking changes

Both charities say a sudden increase in barking should prompt a vet check. The RSPCA gives hearing problems as one example of a health issue that could be involved, and Dogs Trust says sudden behaviour changes can point to a medical problem.

Reducing barking: the steps Dogs Trust sets out

Dogs Trust lists a sequence of steps. The first is to understand the dog’s body language so its feelings are clear, and the second is to identify triggers, with a diary of when and where barking happens. It then advises:

• Reduce the triggers by changing the environment and routine, so the dog cannot practise barking.
• Reduce stress: it suggests that after a stressful day a dog may bark at every trigger for 24 to 48 hours, so quiet routes and plenty of rest help.
• Reward calm, quiet behaviour, and distract the dog before it barks with games, toys or treats.
• Teach alternatives, such as sniffing for treats on the floor, sit, down, stay, go to bed and settle.
• Seek expert help if the barking stems from fear. Dogs Trust warns that forcing a dog to face its fear could make matters worse.

Dogs Trust advises against telling a dog off, because some dogs think the owner is joining in and others become afraid of the owner as well as the trigger. The RSPCA similarly recommends a regular daily routine covering meals, play and exercise, and enough to do each day so the dog is not bored.

Barking at the window, in the garden and at deliveries

For window barking, Dogs Trust suggests curtains, blinds or frosted film, stair gates to block access and a radio to mask outside sounds. In the garden it suggests screens or plants to limit what the dog sees and hears, quiet times to go out and supervision. For deliveries, it suggests tracking parcels or an external letterbox.

Left alone: a job for expert support

Dogs Trust says a dog that barks because it is worried about being left needs to change how it feels, which is best done with a qualified expert, and that a dog should not simply be left to bark. The RSPCA recommends a clinical animal behaviourist for a treatment plan when the cause is not clear.

When a neighbour complains: England

The RSPCA advises that occasional barking is usually not a problem for neighbours, but that disruptive barking may also harm the dog’s welfare because owners may not know it happens when they are out. If a neighbour complains, it suggests talking to the owner first and then contacting the local council.

GOV.UK guidance for England says councils must look into complaints about noise that could be a statutory nuisance under the Environmental Protection Act 1990. To qualify, noise must unreasonably and substantially interfere with the use or enjoyment of a home or other premises, or injure or be likely to injure health. The guidance names barking dogs as an example of noise from premises, including gardens. If the council agrees a statutory nuisance exists or will occur, it must serve an abatement notice requiring the person responsible to stop or restrict the noise. That guidance applies to England only, and other UK nations have their own legislation.

Frequently asked questions

Should an owner ignore a dog that barks for attention?

Dogs Trust suggests ignoring attention barking and waiting for the dog to stop before re-engaging, while rewarding quiet behaviour and meeting the dog’s needs for stimulation in advance.

The bottom line

Barking is communication, so the most effective approach in the charities’ advice is to work out the cause, cut down the triggers, meet the dog’s exercise and stimulation needs, reward calm behaviour and involve a vet or behaviourist when barking changes suddenly or stems from fear or being alone. Where barking affects neighbours in England, councils can treat it as a possible statutory nuisance, which is why early conversation and prompt action are worthwhile.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “How to Stop Your Dog Barking: Causes & Triggers”
• RSPCA, “How To Stop Your Dog Barking Too Much”
• GOV.UK, “Noise nuisances: how councils deal with complaints”

Cats Protection and International Cat Care, two cat welfare charities, both publish guidance on choosing from the wide range of cat foods on sale. This guide summarises their advice for UK owners on the basics of feeding a healthy adult cat. It is general welfare information; the charities advise speaking to a vet about special diets, weight worries or any cat that stops eating.

Choose a complete food

Cats Protection says cats need a meat-based diet balanced with the right amount of proteins, vitamins and minerals, and advises choosing a food labelled “complete”, which contains all the vital nutrients so no other food or vitamin supplements are needed. “Complementary” foods, such as treats, must be combined with other foods to give a balanced diet. International Cat Care makes the same distinction: complete foods give a cat all the nutrients it needs except water and are designed to be the main part of the diet, while complementary foods are typically treats, are nutritionally incomplete and should form no more than 10 per cent of the diet.

Cats Protection groups life stages as kittens up to one year, adults between one and eight years, and seniors over eight, and says each needs different food. It also advises picking a brand that is a member of UK Pet Food and does not recommend homemade meals unless a vet advises them, because the balance is very difficult to get right. The site’s guide to reading pet food labels explains the wording on packaging.

Wet, dry or both

Cats Protection says a cat can be fed wet food, dry food or both, and that the choice is down to the cat’s preference. It suggests offering both in separate bowls to see which the cat prefers.

• Wet food. It comes in many flavours, can appeal to fussy eaters, has a higher moisture content and is softer to eat. International Cat Care explains that cats tend to concentrate their urine rather than drink more water, so wet food provides a source of water, and that it is always lower in calories than dry food, which makes it bulkier.
• Dry food. Cats Protection says it can be left out all day, which suits cats that graze, and can be used in puzzle feeders. International Cat Care names ease, convenience and cost as the main benefits, and says dry food is more energy dense, which can suit thin or picky cats but can be a problem for cats unable to regulate their intake.

International Cat Care says most owners feed a combination, and that a vet can advise on the best choice for an individual cat.

Cats fed mostly dry food need help drinking. International Cat Care suggests a constant supply of clean water, a water station kept separate from food and the litter tray, ceramic or steel bowls because plastic can leave an aftertaste, wide flat bowls that do not touch the whiskers, several drinking stations, and possibly a water fountain.

How much and how often

Cats Protection says the amount depends on age, weight and activity. Owners should follow the packaging guidance on daily quantity and check the cat’s weight periodically, and speak to a vet if the cat seems over- or underweight. Neutered cats typically have reduced energy needs, so the daily amount may need reducing. The site’s guide to pet obesity covers weight in more detail.

Cats have evolved to eat little and often. Cats Protection notes that a wild cat would eat around 10 to 12 small meals a day and that pet cats often prefer the same pattern. Its guidance for adult cats is fresh wet food at least twice daily and dry food at least once daily, and it says wet food should be changed at least twice a day to stay fresh.

Where to put the bowls

• Cats Protection advises placing food and water bowls away from each other, because cats do not like their water contaminated by food, and putting the litter tray as far away from both as possible.
• Cats usually prefer to eat away from other cats, so in a multi-cat home food should be given in separate places.

Treats and human food

Cats Protection says treats should be limited so a cat does not gain weight, with the regular daily allowance reduced to allow for the extra calories, and that cat food treats are better than human food. It notes that many cats value play or attention more than food. It does not generally recommend human food because calories are hard to gauge, it can unbalance the diet and many human foods are harmful to cats; see the site’s guide to human foods that are toxic to dogs and cats.

Changing food and special diets

A sudden change of diet can upset the stomach or lead a cat to refuse a new food. Cats Protection recommends offering a little of the new food alongside the old in separate bowls, never mixed, increasing the amount of new food and reducing the old gradually over a week or more. If the cat refuses the new food or becomes unwell, it advises continuing with the old food and speaking to a vet. Cats are obligate carnivores, it says, so it does not recommend vegetarian or vegan diets, and anyone considering a raw diet should speak to a vet first.

Frequently asked questions

Is wet food better than dry?

Cats Protection says the choice is down to the cat’s own preference provided the food is complete, and International Cat Care says both have pros and cons.

Should a cat be fed vegetarian food?

Cats Protection says cats are obligate carnivores and do not recommend vegetarian or vegan diets.

The bottom line

The two charities agree on the basics: a complete cat food suited to the cat’s life stage, wet, dry or both according to preference, small regular meals, fresh water kept away from food and the litter tray, limited treats, and gradual changes to any diet. A vet is the right contact for weight concerns or a cat that is eating less than normal.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Feeding your cat”
• International Cat Care, “Should I feed my cat wet or dry food?”

There is no single figure for how much exercise a dog needs. The PDSA, the UK veterinary charity, says regular exercise is essential for keeping dogs in shape and important for their mental health, and lists several factors that change the amount. Dogs Trust adds that mental exercise counts too. This guide summarises their advice for UK owners. It is general welfare information, and a vet should be consulted about a dog with a health condition or worries about weight or fitness.

What decides how much exercise a dog needs

The PDSA names five factors:

• Breed. Some breeds need a minimum of one to two hours a day, and working breeds need significantly more.
• Age. While a dog is growing, exercise should be introduced slowly to protect the joints. Adult dogs need to stay fit and active, and senior dogs may need a little less than before.
• Health. An unwell or injured dog may need less than usual, and resting is an important part of recovery, so a vet’s advice should always be followed.
• Fitness. Fitness should be built gradually. A dog asked to join in a new hobby such as running or hiking should be eased into it slowly to avoid injury.
• Personality. Each dog has preferences, so exercise should be enjoyable and, where possible, tailored to the breed, for example to a dog bred to retrieve or swim.

How often to walk

The PDSA says walking should be part of every dog’s daily routine and that most dogs need at least one to two walks a day, unless a vet says otherwise. A brisk walk lets a dog burn off energy, while a slow, meandering walk for sniffing and exploring is good for mental health. Dogs Trust likewise says to allow plenty of time to sniff on walks and to vary the route.

The PDSA says a big garden is no substitute, because walks let a dog sniff new smells, explore places and meet people and dogs, which matters for wellbeing and confidence.

Other ways to exercise a dog

• Swimming. A good option for dogs that like water and easy on the joints, as long as water safety advice is followed.
• Running. The PDSA advises introducing it slowly, starting with short bursts of gentle jogging during a normal walk and building up.
• Hiking. Check that the route suits the dog and its fitness, and carry water and take regular breaks.
• Agility and flyball. Agility and flyball suit active, clever dogs. The PDSA says flyball is not suitable for very heavy dogs or those with joint problems and advises speaking to a vet before starting classes.
• Play. Play does not replace a walk but keeps a dog active and lets it chase, pounce and search.

Play and toy safety

The PDSA’s vets advise using only toys designed for dogs, checking them regularly and discarding any with parts that could be bitten off or swallowed, and choosing toys too large to swallow whole. It also warns that throwing items for fetch, with the quick starts and sudden stops, can strain joints, and suggests avoiding it for dogs that are still growing, elderly, injured, arthritic, overweight or on slippery surfaces. It says never to throw sticks because they can cause very serious injuries. Dogs Trust suggests rotating toys weekly to keep them interesting.

Mental exercise counts

Dogs Trust says enrichment lets dogs use natural instincts, can prevent boredom and build confidence, and should be provided daily. Ideas it lists include lick mats, puzzle feeders, dig boxes, snuffle mats, scattered food and treat trails. It advises supervising and taking food-based enrichment out of the evening meal so a dog does not gain too much weight. The PDSA also lists training as an essential part of a dog’s routine because it keeps the mind active and prevents boredom. The site’s guide to games and enrichment covers more ideas.

Safety on walks

The PDSA emphasises training. Good recall is essential so a dog will return in any situation, and should be practised indoors, then in an enclosed garden or park, before letting a dog off the lead in open space, using reward-based training. It does not recommend extendable leads because they can be dangerous for owner and dog, especially near busy roads. In summer it advises exercising during cooler hours and taking water, and in winter it advises a high-visibility jacket or collar or harness when it is dark. Dogs should be kept on a lead near roads, in built-up areas and around livestock. The site’s guides to dogs in hot weather and harness or collar choices give more detail.

If a dog does not enjoy walks

The PDSA suggests working out why. Fear of other dogs, people or the outdoors can make walks scary, and it recommends an accredited behaviourist. A dog that is struggling to keep up may need advice from a vet on diet and exercise. Boredom can arise if walks are rushed, and it suggests finding a better time or considering a dog walker.

Frequently asked questions

Will more exercise fix bad behaviour?

The PDSA says a good routine may help but is unlikely to fix a problem completely, and exercising a stressed dog in a busy place could make it worse. An accredited behaviourist can help.

The bottom line

According to the PDSA and Dogs Trust, exercise should be fitted to the individual dog: at least one to two walks a day for most, more for working breeds, gradual build-up, care with joints, and daily mental exercise alongside physical activity. A vet is the right contact for any dog with health concerns.

Sources

• PDSA, “Exercising your dog”
• Dogs Trust, “Enrichment activities to keep your dog entertained”

Scratched sofas and stair carpets are among the most common complaints of cat owners, but both Cats Protection and International Cat Care stress that scratching is a normal, necessary behaviour. The practical answer is therefore to redirect it rather than try to stop it. This guide summarises what the two charities say about why cats scratch, how to choose and place scratching posts, and when scratching points to insecurity. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or qualified behaviourist.

Why cats scratch

Cats Protection gives two main reasons: to keep claws in good condition, and to communicate with other cats and leave a reminder for themselves. Scent glands between the paw pads leave a unique smell on surfaces, which combines with the scratch marks and discarded claw husks to send a message to other cats.

International Cat Care adds that scratching also exercises the muscles of the front legs and spine. Dragging the claws downwards, known as stropping, loosens and removes the outer keratin husk to reveal sharp new claw underneath, and healthy, sharp claws help with climbing, hunting, playing and defence. It says kittens start to scratch from around five weeks of age.

Why scratching happens indoors

Cats Protection says every cat needs a scratching outlet whether it goes outside or not, so a cat with limited access to the outdoors will scratch in the home. In the wild, cats would scratch tree bark, and a sofa or chair can serve as a substitute because cats prefer objects that are sturdy or tall enough to grip and dig into. International Cat Care says cats scratch indoors for claw maintenance, exploration and play, and that scent deposited while scratching may give a feeling of physical safety and security. Some cats also learn that scratching furniture earns attention.

Choosing a scratching post

Both organisations emphasise matching the post to the cat. Their guidance includes:

• Height and stability. Cats Protection recommends a heavy, stable base so the post does not wobble or topple, and one tall enough for a cat to scratch at full stretch. International Cat Care likewise says a post should be as tall as the cat standing on its hind legs in a fully stretched position.
• Surface and direction. Cats Protection suggests a vertical weave that lets a cat run its claws downwards, and a horizontal scratching pad for cats that scratch carpets and stairs. International Cat Care says each cat has its own preferred surfaces and vertical or horizontal orientation.
• Like for like. If a particular surface is being damaged, International Cat Care says to offer an alternative with a similar experience. For example, a cat scratching textured wallpaper at a certain height needs a vertical alternative with similar texture and ridges that allows the same stretch.
• Age. Kittens and senior cats may prefer softer surfaces, such as angled or horizontal cardboard scratchers.
• Small spaces. International Cat Care says panels of sisal twine, bark or corrugated cardboard can be fixed to walls.

Where to put posts

Cats Protection advises placing a post next to the area where the cat has been scratching, then gradually moving it to a more suitable location once the cat uses it. Because cats often scratch and stretch on waking, a post near the cat’s bed is worth trying. It also suggests rubbing good-quality catnip on a post, or placing a few pieces of cat food on it, and playing with the cat little and often, which may help redirect energy away from furniture.

In homes with more than one cat, Cats Protection says every cat should have its own post positioned in a different place to avoid conflict. International Cat Care recommends one post per cat plus an extra for choice. The site’s guide to multi-cat households explains how resources are shared between cats.

Protecting furniture while the habit changes

Until the cat is using the post, Cats Protection suggests protecting the furniture with thick, shiny plastic sheeting, which cats find unappealing to scratch, and removing it gradually once the post is used. It also says to praise a cat that scratches the post and ignore scratching of inappropriate objects, because attention can reinforce the habit.

International Cat Care cautions that trimming claws may prevent immediate damage but does not meet the cat’s needs, and so it is best to offer alternatives instead. It says senior cats, however, may need regular claw trims because they are physically less able to scratch as often as they need to. Overgrown claws can catch on soft furnishings or grow into the pads, which is painful, and Cats Protection publishes a guide on how to trim claws safely.

When scratching signals stress

Cats Protection says that if a cat scratches in many places, including conflict areas such as windows and doors, it is likely communicating and feels insecure there, and the most common cause of indoor scratching of this kind is the presence of another cat. International Cat Care similarly says widespread scratching, particularly around doorways and windows, may signal a general sense of insecurity. Cats Protection warns against simply providing another scratching surface without helping the cat feel more secure, and says a qualified behaviourist may be needed to uncover the cause of the anxiety. International Cat Care notes that a synthetic feline pheromone can help provide reassurance. The site’s guide to keeping an indoor cat happy covers other ways to make a home more secure.

Frequently asked questions

Can a cat be trained never to scratch?

International Cat Care says scratching is normal and necessary behaviour that cannot, and should not, be stopped, only directed to suitable surfaces.

Does an indoor-only cat still need to scratch?

Yes. Both charities say indoor cats need sharp claws and a scratching outlet.

The bottom line

The charities’ advice is consistent: provide tall, stable posts in the right places, match them to the surfaces the cat already prefers, reward their use, and protect furniture while the habit changes. Widespread scratching around doors and windows is a prompt to consider what is worrying the cat.

Sources

• Cats Protection, “Cats and scratching”
• International Cat Care, “Scratching on furniture and carpets”

The RSPCA’s guidance describes guinea pigs as animals with clear needs for space, company, hiding places and a carefully managed diet. This guide summarises the charity’s advice on housing, companionship and feeding. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice. For a wider overview, see the site’s guide to caring for guinea pigs and hamsters.

Space and shelter

The RSPCA says a guinea pig needs a secure space large enough to exercise in and high enough to stand fully upright on its back legs. Youngsters are especially playful and need a height of around 30cm for their “frisky hop”, also called popcorning. Accommodation should have a solid floor with a good depth of litter, because grid floors let litter through and can hurt guinea pigs’ feet.

Guinea pigs feel vulnerable in unprotected open spaces and like to stay in contact with solid surfaces, so the charity recommends a large exercise area with secure shelter, such as purpose-made houses, cardboard boxes or tubes. The RSPCA also suggests free access to an exercise area with pipes and shelters.

Indoors, outdoors and temperature

For indoor housing, the RSPCA advises well-ventilated, dry accommodation away from direct heat sources such as radiators or sunny windows, and away from draughts. It gives 17 to 20 degrees Celsius as an ideal room temperature and warns that some areas of centrally heated houses may get too hot.

Outdoors, the hutch should be sheltered from direct sun and direct wind, with sufficient bedding throughout to keep the animals warm. The charity says that temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius can cause heatstroke, and that guinea pigs should be moved indoors when temperatures fall below 15 degrees Celsius, at which they can become chilled.

Bedding, litter and cleaning

• Bedding. Warm bedding should be safe to eat, such as dust-free hay. Softwood products such as pine can cause illness, and stranded nesting materials such as cotton wool or fluffy bedding pose a serious risk because animals can become tangled and cannot safely eat them. Coarse materials such as straw should be avoided because they can cause eye injuries.
• Litter. The RSPCA calls dry, dust-free, absorbent wood shavings, supplemented with hay for tunnelling and hiding, the best type. Wood wool is also good for hiding in.
• Cleaning. On average, the RSPCA says, accommodation should be deep cleaned at least once a week, with daily spot cleaning, but not so often that the animals are frequently disturbed.
• Gnawing. Because incisor teeth grow continually, the RSPCA recommends untreated wooden toys, pieces of fruit tree or willow sticks. It advises avoiding plastic toys, which may harm a guinea pig if chewed or swallowed.

Company: why guinea pigs should not live alone

The RSPCA advises keeping a guinea pig with at least one other friendly guinea pig, unless a vet or clinical animal behaviourist advises otherwise. Left alone for long periods, guinea pigs can develop abnormal behaviour and may suffer. The charity lists good combinations as a neutered male with one or more females, two females, or brothers reared together. Unrelated males can be introduced, but it can be tricky and may take a few attempts. Success, it says, depends more on individual personalities than on sex, and neutering does not resolve fighting. Males kept with females should always be neutered, and a vet advises on this.

New animals should be introduced gradually and under supervision, preferably somewhere new to both. Guinea pigs need places where they can escape from companions and enough resources for all of them. The charity says refuges should exceed the number of animals by one, otherwise they can become stressed and lower-ranking individuals may be bullied.

The RSPCA also says rabbits and guinea pigs do not make ideal companions and that rabbits are best kept with rabbits and guinea pigs with guinea pigs, because their needs, diets and communication differ and rabbits may bully or injure guinea pigs. The site’s guide to rabbit housing and companionship covers the other side of that pairing.

What guinea pigs eat

According to the RSPCA, good-quality hay should make up the majority of the diet and be available at all times, with fresh grass ideally every day. Hay and grass matter for the digestive system and for wearing down teeth that keep growing, and the wrong diet can cause serious dental disease. Lawnmower clippings should never be fed because they upset the digestive system.

A fresh portion of grass-based guinea pig pellets should be offered daily following the manufacturer’s instructions, because it supplies vitamin C, which is destroyed over time and more quickly with exposure to air. The charity says not to simply top up the bowl.

The RSPCA groups vegetables into three lists, each described as examples:

• Can eat often: parsley, celery, bell peppers, cucumber, gem lettuce and romaine lettuce, rotated daily.
• As a treat, a few times a week in small amounts: broccoli, spinach, kale, small pieces of carrot and a quarter of an apple, because of their sugar or calcium content.
• Cannot eat: iceberg lettuce, potato, garlic, avocado, coconut and citrus fruits.

Fresh, clean drinking water must be available continuously, checked twice daily and protected from freezing. New foods should be introduced gradually, and quantities adjusted so a guinea pig does not become under- or overweight.

Frequently asked questions

Can a single guinea pig be happy with human company alone?

The RSPCA advises keeping guinea pigs in company with their own kind. If one has to be kept alone, it says, daily interaction is vital.

The bottom line

The RSPCA’s guidance points to the same essentials: a roomy, ventilated home with hiding places and a solid floor, careful temperature control, safe bedding, a companion guinea pig and a diet built on hay, grass and a fresh daily portion of pellets with suitable vegetables. The RSPCA advises consulting a vet immediately about any change in eating, drinking or toilet habits.

Sources

• RSPCA, “Creating a Good Home for Guinea Pigs”
• RSPCA, “Keeping guinea pigs together”
• RSPCA, “What To Feed a Guinea Pig”

A new baby brings new smells, sounds, equipment, visitors and routines that a pet must adapt to. Dogs Trust and Cats Protection, two UK animal charities, both say that early preparation and constant supervision are the foundations of a smooth start. This guide summarises their advice for dogs and cats in UK households. It is general welfare information, not a substitute for a vet or qualified behaviourist.

Why a new baby can unsettle a dog

Dogs Trust explains that dogs tend to like routine because they feel confident knowing what to expect and when. A new baby can mean less attention, shorter walks, longer periods alone and restricted access to some rooms, alongside unusual sounds, unfamiliar smells and more visitors. Unless a dog has been prepared, the charity says, it may feel very unsettled, so it advises starting early and going at the dog’s pace.

Preparing a dog during pregnancy

Dogs Trust suggests several steps in the months before the birth:

• Baby equipment. Gradually place items such as baby gyms, highchairs, mobiles, playpens, prams and toys around the house. The dog should be free to sniff each item, with treats or a game whenever something new appears.
• Baby sounds. Play audio clips of baby noises at a very low volume while the dog is doing something it enjoys, and raise it over weeks only while the dog stays relaxed. If the dog seems worried, go down a volume level next time.
• Baby smells. Unwashed baby clothes or blankets borrowed from friends with babies can be introduced gradually and paired with something the dog enjoys.
• Routine changes. Introduce likely changes, such as shorter walks or a closed-off future nursery, long before the due date.
• Settle and gate training. Teaching a dog to relax behind a baby gate, or in a crate it already enjoys, gives it a comfortable place to be when visitors arrive.
• Practice with a doll. Carrying and talking to a lifelike doll lets the dog see the new behaviour, and rewarding it for keeping all four paws on the floor helps with jumping up.

Preparing a cat

Cats Protection says cats love routine and that the best approach is to be proactive. A new baby brings new smells, sounds and equipment, which can overwhelm a cat used to a calm, quiet home. Its suggestions include plenty of hiding places and a quiet retreat, extra scratching posts and cat trees because scratching and climbing can help a cat feel secure, and time set aside each day for the cat.

The charity advises deciding early which room will be the nursery and teaching the cat that it is off limits so being shut out is not a sudden shock, and discouraging the cat from using the cot as a bed even before the baby arrives.

Bringing the baby home to a dog

Dogs Trust advises that a dog may be very excited to see its owner after a few days away, so it helps if someone else holds the baby while the dog is greeted. Owners may introduce the dog straight away or wait a day or two. The charity suggests holding the baby while standing and watching for a calm, relaxed dog. The dog can sniff if it wants to but should not be forced, and a helper may keep it on a loose lead. Most dogs sniff for a few seconds and lose interest, and the dog should then be praised and rewarded. If it looks uncomfortable at any point, the introduction should be stopped calmly. The charity also recommends a den area away from the household bustle, so the dog can choose whether to join the family.

Bringing the baby home to a cat

Cats Protection suggests greeting the cat alone for a quiet moment on arriving home, introducing cat and baby in a neutral space rather than where the cat eats or sleeps, and letting a curious cat sniff without forcing any contact. A cat that wants to leave or hide should be allowed to. Calm behaviour should be praised and rewarded, and routines kept as normal as possible.

Supervision comes first

Both charities are clear on supervision. Dogs Trust says a dog and a baby should never be left alone together, because babies make sudden noises and movements that can frighten a dog, and a baby should never be placed on the floor beside a dog. It adds that owners should plan for when the baby starts crawling, so the dog can walk away to its own space. Cats Protection likewise says a newborn is vulnerable, so cats and babies should always be supervised, and that interactions need particular care once a baby begins crawling.

The site’s own guides on children and dogs, dog body language and cat body language cover the signs that a pet is uncomfortable.

If a pet’s behaviour changes

Cats Protection notes that a new baby can lead to behaviour changes in some cats, such as excessive vocalisation, toileting problems or aggression. It advises speaking to a vet to rule out medical reasons and then seeking a referral to a qualified cat behaviourist. Cats Protection says cats and babies can live together in harmony.

Frequently asked questions

Should a cat be kept out of the nursery?

Cats Protection describes this as good practice with a newborn and suggests teaching it early.

Is a calm, friendly dog safe to leave with a baby?

No. Dogs Trust advises that even a relaxed, generally friendly dog may find the period worrying, and that a dog and baby should never be left alone together.

The bottom line

Preparation, gradual change and close supervision are the common threads in the advice from Dogs Trust and Cats Protection. Introducing equipment, sounds and smells slowly, keeping the pet’s routine as steady as possible, giving it somewhere quiet to retreat and never leaving a pet alone with a baby give most households the best chance of a calm start.

Sources

• Dogs Trust, “How to prepare your dog for a new baby”
• Dogs Trust, “How to introduce your dog to your new baby”
• Cats Protection, “Cats and babies”