Pet care guides

  • Dog Control Notices in Scotland: What the Control of Dogs (Scotland) Act 2010 Says About an Out of Control Dog, What a Notice Must Require, How to Challenge It and What Follows if It Is Ignored

    Dog Control Notices in Scotland: What the Control of Dogs (Scotland) Act 2010 Says About an Out of Control Dog, What a Notice Must Require, How to Challenge It and What Follows if It Is Ignored

    An illustration, not a real case: a dog runs up to a stranger in a Scottish park and the stranger is frightened. Under the Control of Dogs (Scotland) Act 2010, a council officer who hears of such an incident may be able to serve the owner with a written dog control notice. This article sets out what the Act and the Scottish Government’s December 2020 guidance to councils say about when that can happen, what a notice can require and what follows if it is ignored. It covers Scotland only and is general information.

    What does “out of control” mean in the Act?

    Section 1 says a dog is out of control if it is not being kept under control effectively and consistently by the proper person, its behaviour gives rise to alarm or apprehensiveness on the part of any individual, and that alarm or apprehensiveness is, in all the circumstances, reasonable. The apprehensiveness can relate to the individual’s own safety, the safety of another person or the safety of an animal other than the dog.

    The Scottish Government guidance says both elements of the test must be met before an officer can serve a notice. The Act allows a notice where a dog has been out of control on at least one occasion since the section came into force, which the guidance dates to 26 February 2011.

    Who can serve a notice, and on whom?

    Notices are served by an “authorised officer” appointed by a local authority. Each authority must appoint at least one, and must satisfy itself that the person is skilled in the control of dogs.

    The notice goes to the “proper person”. That is the dog’s owner, or, if the owner is under 16, a person with parental responsibilities for the owner. If the owner cannot be identified after reasonable inquiry, or serving the owner would not be reasonable, it can go to anyone aged 16 or over who appears to have day-to-day charge of the dog. The Act says it does not matter that someone else was in charge on the occasion in question, and the guidance says this is no defence. One notice covers one dog, and the guidance says the duty applies regardless of breed.

    What must a notice require?

    Under section 2, every notice must require the proper person to:

    • comply with its terms to the satisfaction of the local authority, and tell the authority if their name or address changes;
    • within 14 days of the notice taking effect, have an electronic transponder (microchip) implanted in the dog, or satisfy the authority that one was already implanted before the notice was served, and tell the authority that it has been implanted and by whom;
    • be present and in charge of the dog, or ensure an “entrusted person” is, whenever it is in a place to which the public have access.

    An entrusted person must be 16 or over, entrusted with the dog, made familiar with the notice’s requirements and willing and able to comply with them. The guidance adds that the person implanting the microchip must, in the local authority’s opinion, be appropriately qualified.

    What else can a notice ask for?

    An officer may add other steps that, in the officer’s opinion, must be taken or would help to bring and keep the dog under control. The Act lists examples: muzzling the dog or keeping it on a lead in places the public can access, neutering a male dog, keeping it away from a named place or kind of place, and completing a training course in dog control with the dog. The guidance calls the list non exhaustive and describes the notice as a civil notice.

    Disagreeing with a notice

    There are two routes. The first is an appeal under section 3 to the sheriff, by summary application, against the notice or any of its terms. The sheriff may suspend the notice or a term while the appeal is decided, and may uphold or discharge it, or keep it but discharge or vary a term. The Act says the decision is final.

    The second is an application under section 7 to the local authority for the notice to be discharged or varied, with a written statement of the grounds. The grounds listed include that the dog has died, that the person no longer has day-to-day charge of it, or that it is no longer out of control. If the authority declines, the person can appeal to the sheriff. An authority can also discharge a notice itself; the guidance gives the example of terms having been complied with and the dog now being under control.

    If a notice is not followed

    Failing to comply is an offence under section 5, punishable on summary conviction by a fine not exceeding level 3 on the standard scale. On conviction the court may also disqualify the person from owning or keeping a dog for as long as it thinks fit and, where it considers the dog dangerous, may order its destruction.

    A related change to the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991

    The 2010 Act also amended section 3(1) of the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 to cover a dog dangerously out of control in “any place”, not only a public place. The guidance says the person in charge may therefore be criminally liable even if this happens in the person’s own home or another private place where the dog is permitted.

    The bottom line

    In Scotland, the 2010 Act lets a council’s authorised officer serve a dog control notice once a dog has been out of control, meaning poorly controlled in a way that reasonably causes alarm or apprehensiveness. A notice must carry the microchip and public-place supervision requirements and may add steps such as a lead, a muzzle or training. It can be appealed to the sheriff or taken back to the council, and ignoring it is an offence. It normally goes to the owner, though the Act allows it to go to the person in day-to-day charge in the circumstances described above. The guidance says it is not a definitive interpretation of the Act, which is ultimately a matter for the courts.

    Sources

    • Control of Dogs (Scotland) Act 2010 (asp 9), sections 1 to 7, legislation.gov.uk; the section 1 page states there are no known outstanding effects, read 5 November 2026 (legislation.gov.uk)
    • Control of Dogs (Scotland) Act 2010: guidance, updated, Part A Introduction and Part B Overview of provisions, Scottish Government, published 23 December 2020, read 5 November 2026 (gov.scot)
  • Vet Bills and Prescriptions: What the CMA’s 2026 Order Requires of UK Vets on Price Lists, Estimates, Itemised Bills, Written Prescriptions and Complaints, and When Each Starts

    Vet Bills and Prescriptions: What the CMA’s 2026 Order Requires of UK Vets on Price Lists, Estimates, Itemised Bills, Written Prescriptions and Complaints, and When Each Starts

    The Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) published the Veterinary Services Market Investigation Order 2026 on 22 September 2026, after a market investigation into veterinary services for household pets. The CMA’s guidance says the Order is legally binding on veterinary businesses and that its requirements start on different dates, with larger businesses (15 or more practices) on earlier dates and smaller ones (14 or fewer) given longer. This article sets out what the CMA’s own pages say pet owners should be able to expect, and from when. It is general information; the full Order text governs.

    Whose pets, and which vets?

    The CMA’s guidance defines household pets as animals kept primarily for companionship or protection that habitually live in the owner’s home, and says this excludes livestock, poultry, equines and animals kept mainly for commercial, agricultural, sporting or working purposes. Its guidance for both business sizes says the prescription fee caps apply across the UK with no regional variations.

    The dates, side by side

    Each requirement applies from the next working day after the date shown, according to the CMA’s two guides for veterinary businesses.

    What changesLarge businesses (15 or more practices)Small businesses (14 or fewer)
    Price lists, practice information, pet care plan information, cremation options and pricesAfter 22 December 2026After 22 March 2027
    Ownership information, complaint processes, mediationAfter 22 March 2027After 22 March 2027
    Prescription fee capsAfter 22 March 2027After 22 September 2027
    Written estimates, itemised bills, written prescription rulesAfter 22 June 2027After 22 September 2027

    What a price list must show

    A practice must publish a price for each of the 36 services in a schedule to the Order, except those it does not offer, and must make the list available at its premises. Where prices vary with a pet’s species or weight, they are shown under six standardised categories. The prices must be the typical price for a standard case with minimal complexity, and the list must say they may rise in more complex cases.

    When a booking confirmation is sent, it must state the consultation price and link to the price list. Practices must also publish the prices of their most commonly sold flea, tick and worming products, with a link to the VMD Register of Online Retailers.

    Estimates, itemised bills and care plans

    A written estimate is due when a treatment pathway is reasonably likely to cost £500 or more including VAT and at least 20% of that cost relates to tests or treatments not yet provided or chosen. The CMA says it is not a binding offer or quote, and it can be a single figure or a range. No estimate is needed if the vet judges the pet needs urgent treatment and delay would affect its welfare, or if the owner says they do not want one.

    An itemised bill must be given before or when payment is sought. It must show the amount charged for each medicine product, the total for other goods and services, and any fees for external providers. A pet care plan description must list what is included, how often each service can be used, the total price monthly and annually, the standalone price of each service and the cancellation terms.

    Written prescriptions and the fee cap

    Vets must orally offer a written prescription in each consultation where medicine is prescribed, unless the medicine is required for urgent administration for clinical reasons. The CMA’s guidance says a hard copy is due by the end of the consultation or a digital copy by the end of the second working day. Practices must also tell owners that medicines may be cheaper elsewhere.

    The CMA’s October 2026 guidance sets the maximum fee for a written prescription at £21.40 for the first medicine and £12.70 for each additional one, including VAT, until 31 March 2028, after which the caps are adjusted annually for inflation. Its March 2026 summary of the final report had described caps of £21 and £12.50.

    When a pet dies

    Practices must make owners aware of three options: buying an individual or communal cremation from the practice, arranging a crematorium directly, or taking the pet home for burial. They must offer a basic communal cremation and give written prices for individual and communal cremation before the owner decides. Extras such as urns or paw prints are priced separately.

    If the bill or the service is disputed

    A practice must have a written complaints process and try first to resolve a complaint informally. If that fails within 10 working days it becomes an actionable complaint, to be acknowledged in writing within a further 5 working days, with a full written response within 8 weeks. If the process is exhausted and the owner wishes, the business must take part in mediation in good faith; the CMA says the outcome is not binding unless both parties accept it as a full and final settlement.

    The bottom line

    On the CMA’s pages as read on 4 November 2026, the Order has been made and one requirement, on out-of-hours contract notice periods, is already in effect. The duties that face pet owners are phased in from the next working day after 22 December 2026 to the next working day after 22 September 2027, later for businesses with 14 or fewer practices. Written estimates have the exceptions described above, and the prescription fee figure differs between the CMA’s March and October 2026 pages. The Order and its explanatory note are the authority on exact wording.

    Sources

    • Veterinary services for household pets (case page), Competition and Markets Authority on GOV.UK, last updated 15 October 2026, read 4 November 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Small veterinary businesses: complying with the CMA’s Order, Competition and Markets Authority on GOV.UK, published 13 October 2026, last updated 15 October 2026, read 4 November 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Large veterinary businesses: complying with the CMA’s Order, Competition and Markets Authority on GOV.UK, published 13 October 2026, last updated 15 October 2026, read 4 November 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Summary of the final report (HTML), Competition and Markets Authority on GOV.UK, final decision published 24 March 2026, read 4 November 2026 (gov.uk)
  • Keeping a Pet Pig or Micropig in England: CPH Number, Herd Mark, Walking Licence, Holding Register and the Rules on Feeding Kitchen Waste (GOV.UK)

    Keeping a Pet Pig or Micropig in England: CPH Number, Herd Mark, Walking Licence, Holding Register and the Rules on Feeding Kitchen Waste (GOV.UK)

    In England, a pig kept as a pet is not treated as just a companion animal. GOV.UK guidance for keepers says that anyone who keeps a pig or ‘micropig’ as a pet is considered a pig keeper and must follow the same traceability and welfare rules as pig farmers. This article sets out what the GOV.UK pages for England say about registration, identification, walking, records and feeding. It is general information.

    What does the law expect of a pig keeper?

    The GOV.UK guidance “Keeping a pet pig or ‘micropig’” (published 31 December 2014, last updated 12 July 2023) says keepers are legally responsible for the welfare of their pig. They must look after it by providing a suitable place to live, giving it a suitable diet, making sure it can behave naturally and normally, and protecting it from pain, suffering, injury and disease. Keepers must also follow good hygiene and biosecurity standards to help prevent the introduction and spread of disease.

    The page applies to England and links to separate guidance for Scotland and for Wales, which is not covered here.

    The order of paperwork before a pig arrives

    1. County parish holding (CPH) number. The pet pig page says a keeper must get a CPH number from the Rural Payments Agency (RPA) for the land and buildings where the pig will be kept. The separate RPA guidance says a CPH number is needed for livestock kept as a business, a hobby or a pet, gives a goat as a pet example, and lists pigs among the livestock covered.
    2. Timing. The RPA guidance says an application can be made a maximum of 6 weeks before livestock arrive, and it advises applying early.
    3. Herd mark. The pet pig page says that by law a keeper must register as a pig keeper with the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA) to get a herd mark. The APHA registration page says to register after getting the CPH number and before moving livestock onto the land, and to tell APHA the CPH number, the species, how many animals are kept and for what purpose. It says the process usually takes 10 working days.
    4. Identification. The herd mark must be on the ear tag, tattoo or slap mark used to identify the pig before it moves from where it is kept.

    The RPA guidance, last updated 22 July 2026, says the RPA shares registered information with APHA to get a flock and herd number and that APHA then sends an email with it, while the pet pig page and the APHA page speak of registering with APHA directly. The CPH page itself says the application process has changed, so the wording on the older pages may not match it.

    Can a pet pig be taken for a walk?

    The pet pig page says a keeper needs to apply to APHA for a licence to walk the pig outside the home or premises, with a map of the proposed route. APHA may not approve a route if it poses a health risk, and the examples given are routes that pass close to a livestock market, a pig farm or a fast food restaurant.

    The licence must be carried whenever the pig is walked and has to be renewed every year. A walk under the licence does not have to be reported or recorded as a movement. The pig must still be tagged, tattooed or marked with its identification details before it goes anywhere away from home, and the page names a walk under licence and a trip to a vet as examples.

    Movements, the holding register and the yearly count

    Any other movement of the pig has to be reported through the electronic animal movement licensing service (eAML2), which requires registration. A record of all movements, known as a holding register, must also be kept.

    Once a year, at a time the keeper chooses, the holding register must also record the number of pigs on the premises or land on that day and the total number normally kept there. The records can be digital or paper, must be kept for 3 years after the keeper stops keeping pigs, and must be shown to an RPA field officer if requested.

    APHA must be told about a change of address or telephone number, a change to where the pig is kept, more pigs or a new species of pig, or the end of pig keeping. The RPA must be told of changes to the CPH details, including when a keeper stops keeping the pig.

    Why kitchen leftovers are off the menu

    The pet pig page is direct on this point: pigs cannot be fed catering waste from any domestic or commercial kitchen, including kitchens that only cater for vegetarians, and catering waste includes used cooking oil. It adds that pigs generally cannot be fed material of animal origin or products containing it.

    The page lists some permitted items, including liquid milk or colostrum produced on the same holding where the pigs are kept, and former foodstuffs that contain rennet, melted fat, milk or eggs as long as these are not the main ingredient. Milk products, fishmeal and blood products are allowed only in some cases. Keepers who are unsure whether something can be fed are told to contact APHA, and pig food may come from a premises that handles material pigs cannot eat only if the premises has a procedure keeping the two apart that has been agreed with a local council.

    If a pig dies at home

    The page says a death at the home or premises does not have to be reported through eAML2, but the keeper must follow the rules to dispose of the animal safely and legally.

    The bottom line

    Read on 3 November 2026, the GOV.UK pages for England treat a pet pig as livestock: a CPH number from the RPA, a herd mark from APHA, identification before any movement, a walking licence, a holding register with a yearly count, and limits on what can be fed. The pages for Scotland and Wales are separate. The pet pig page was last updated in July 2023, while the CPH page was updated in July 2026 and says its application process has changed.

    Sources

    • Keeping a pet pig or ‘micropig’, Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and Animal and Plant Health Agency on GOV.UK, published 31 December 2014, last updated 12 July 2023, read 3 November 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Apply for a county parish holding (CPH) number, Rural Payments Agency on GOV.UK, published 9 October 2024, last updated 22 July 2026, read 3 November 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Register livestock to get a flock or herd mark, Animal and Plant Health Agency and Defra on GOV.UK, published 15 June 2023, read 3 November 2026 (gov.uk)
  • Dog Licences in Northern Ireland: The £12.50 Fee, Exemptions, Block Licences, Microchipping Before You Apply, Collar Identification and Fixed Penalties (nidirect)

    Dog Licences in Northern Ireland: The £12.50 Fee, Exemptions, Block Licences, Microchipping Before You Apply, Collar Identification and Fixed Penalties (nidirect)

    nidirect, the official government website for Northern Ireland, says it is an offence to own an unlicensed dog unless the dog falls into a short list of exemptions. This guide pulls together what nidirect’s pages on dog licensing, microchipping, collars and control say. It covers Northern Ireland only; the pages are undated and were read on 2 November 2026, so fees and rules should be checked with the local council before applying.

    The figures nidirect gives

    ItemWhat nidirect says
    Standard licence£12.50, valid for 12 months
    Owners aged 65 or overNo fee for one dog; £5 for other dogs
    Sterilised dog£5 licence fee; a vet’s certificate may be requested
    Block licence£32 a year for three or more dogs kept on the same premises, if conditions are met
    MicrochipRequired at eight weeks old and before a licence application
    Maximum fine for no valid licenceUp to £1,000

    The page also says there is a reduced rate for owners on certain income-related benefits: State Pension Credit, Housing Benefit and income-related Employment and Support Allowance, with proof possibly requested. Application forms are available from council offices and, in many cases, on the local council’s website.

    Which dogs are exempt?

    Domestic pet dogs must be licensed individually. The offence does not apply to:

    • a puppy under six months old, kept by the person who also kept the bitch that gave birth to it
    • an assistance dog used by a disabled person
    • a dog kept, and on offer for sale, in a licensed pet shop
    • a police dog
    • a dog kept under a block licence, on the premises the block licence covers

    Block licences are not simply a discount for multi-dog homes. nidirect says one is available for three or more dogs on the same premises only if at least three are unsterilised bitches that between them breed fewer than three litters in 12 months, or the premises are registered guard dog kennels, or at least three dogs are registered with a listed body such as the Kennel Club or the International Sheep Dog Society.

    Microchip first, licence second

    nidirect says all dogs in Northern Ireland must be microchipped at eight weeks old, and must be microchipped before an owner applies for a licence. Owners are responsible for making sure the contact details held against the chip number are accurate and recorded on a database that council officers can access. If they are not, nidirect says the dog is not considered microchipped and the dog licence will not be valid.

    Collar, name and address

    Dogs, with a few exceptions, must wear a collar with the owner’s name and address inscribed on it, or on a plate or badge attached to the collar. nidirect says it is an offence if a dog does not wear the right collar identification, with a maximum fine of £1,000. The exceptions are a dog that is a member of a pack of hounds, a dog being judged in a competition, and a dog being used for sporting purposes, the capture or destruction of vermin, or for driving or tending sheep or cattle.

    Taking on, buying or passing on a dog

    It is also an offence to take possession of a dog, whether paid for or not, before obtaining a licence for it. nidirect says the person who gave or sold the dog is guilty of an offence too, and that the maximum fine for the new keeper is £1,000. Two other points on the page:

    • A person under 16, or anyone disqualified from keeping animals under animal welfare legislation, cannot obtain or hold a dog licence.
    • A refund of the fee can be requested if the keeper does not take possession of the dog or disposes of it within 30 days of the licence being issued, or if the dog dies within those 30 days.

    Leads, control and fixed penalties

    nidirect’s page on controlling a dog in public says a dog is “under control” if it is on a lead held by someone able to control it. For example, a large dog would not be under control if its lead was held by a child who could not restrain it. The page says dogs need not be leashed at all times, but must be kept on a lead in designated pedestrian zones and on land where livestock is present, and that councils have bye-laws showing where leashing is required, such as public parks.

    Some offences can attract a fixed penalty from a dog warden instead of a court case, including keeping a dog without a licence, straying, failing to keep a dog under control on certain roads or where livestock is present, and failing to display identification on a collar or tag. nidirect gives £75 as the default level, with councils able to set their own level between £50 and £80 and allow a discount for early payment. A person can choose not to pay and have the matter dealt with in court. For keeping a dog without a valid licence, nidirect lists the possible outcomes as a warning, a formal caution, a fixed penalty, or prosecution with a fine of up to £1,000.

    The bottom line

    According to nidirect, a pet dog in Northern Ireland needs its own licence at £12.50 for 12 months (with reduced and free options for some owners), a microchip registered with accurate details before the licence is issued, and a collar showing the owner’s name and address in public. The pages give maximum fines of £1,000 for no valid licence and for missing collar identification. Because the pages are undated, the local council is the place to confirm the current fees and rules before applying.

    Sources

    • Dog licensing and microchipping, nidirect, page undated, read 2 November 2026 (nidirect.gov.uk)
    • Controlling your dog in public, nidirect, page undated, read 2 November 2026 (nidirect.gov.uk)
  • Taking a Dog or Cat on a Train in Great Britain: What National Rail’s Pet Page and Its July 2026 Conditions of Travel Say, and Where Train Companies Differ

    Taking a Dog or Cat on a Train in Great Britain: What National Rail’s Pet Page and Its July 2026 Conditions of Travel Say, and Where Train Companies Differ

    National Rail’s pet page says passengers can bring up to 2 animals on a train at no extra charge. National Rail also publishes its Conditions of Travel, and the edition read for this article applies from 30 July 2026. The two documents are worded differently in places, and train companies add their own pages. This article sets them side by side, with Avanti West Coast and Transport for Wales (TfW) as examples, then covers Blue Cross’s advice on getting a dog used to trains. The Conditions state that they apply to travel within Great Britain only.

    Two animals free, unless a train company says otherwise

    The pet page says up to 2 animals can travel free, and that bringing more may mean an additional fee, with the train company the one to ask. The Conditions of Travel (section 24.1) allow up to two dogs or other small domestic animals free of charge, unless a train company has set out special conditions for its own services. Those conditions, the Conditions add, are made available when buying a ticket in advance and are shown on the company’s website.

    Company pages show how that plays out. Avanti West Coast says up to two domestic pets travel at no extra charge and additional pets can be booked for £5 each. TfW’s FAQ gives a maximum of two per passenger in its answers on dogs and on cats or other small animals.

    Leads and carriers: two wordings from National Rail

    On dogs, the pet page asks passengers to keep a dog on a lead or in a pet carrier, “whichever you and your furry friend prefer”, both on the train and at stations. The Conditions of Travel (24.4) say dogs must be kept on a lead throughout the journey, including any part of station property. They do not repeat the carrier alternative in that clause.

    On other animals, such as cats or birds, the pet page says to use a pet carrier or similar, rigid and not open, in which the pet can stand and lie down comfortably. The Conditions (24.3) call for a fully enclosed basket or pet carrier that lets the animal stand and lie down in comfort, with dimensions not exceeding 85 x 60 x 60 cm, and say an animal too large for a carrier of that size may not be conveyed by train. Clause 24.4 adds that animals other than dogs must not be taken out of their carriers.

    The two company pages lean towards the pet page’s version for dogs. Avanti says dogs must be kept on a lead at all times in stations and on trains unless they are in a carrier, and TfW says dogs must be on a lead unless contained in a basket. These pages do not say which wording governs, so arrangements can differ.

    Seats, buffet cars and escalators

    Both National Rail documents bar animals from seats; the Conditions say not in any circumstances. TfW says animals and containers must not occupy seats or a charge will be made. Avanti asks that carriers are not put on seats or tables, for hygiene and allergy reasons.

    Animals other than assistance dogs may not go into buffet or restaurant cars, the Conditions say, unless the train company specifically allows it. The pet page also says dogs must not be allowed to stand on escalators and must be carried.

    Sleepers, replacement buses and refusals

    The pet page says pets are welcome on sleeper trains, with an extra charge for a heavy-duty clean for dogs, except for assistance animals, and tells passengers to check with the train company. The Conditions (24.5) say special conditions apply to animals in sleeper cabins and that the company must be contacted before booking.

    On rail replacement buses, TfW says dogs are normally not permitted except guide dogs, and Avanti says assistance dogs are always allowed but pets cannot be accommodated.

    Not every animal can travel. The Conditions say livestock and non-domestic animals cannot be carried in any circumstances, and that staff may ask for a dog or other animal causing a nuisance or inconvenience to be removed. The pet page lists livestock such as pigs, sheep and goats among animals not permitted, along with any animal that may inconvenience passengers by size or behaviour. It also says assistance dogs always ride free under the Assistance Dogs Travel Scheme.

    Getting a dog used to the train: Blue Cross’s steps

    Blue Cross’s page on dogs on trains was published on 20 March 2019. Its summary of the rules pre-dates the 2026 Conditions, so the rules above come from National Rail and the companies. The charity’s training advice is a different matter. It says to introduce a dog to the train in short bursts, starting in the ticket hall and rewarding the dog for sitting or looking at ease, then walking through the ticket barriers with treats or strokes. Once a dog seems confident, it suggests a first journey to the next station, closely watching the dog’s reaction and building up the time on trains from there.

    Its other tips include trying to get a seat with space so the dog can sit or lie on the floor beside you, avoiding rush hour, waiting for the next train if the carriage is too full, and carrying water on long journeys.

    Blue Cross lists behaviours to watch for, including excessive panting, pacing, a tucked tail, vocalising and chewing the lead, and says to decide whether to remove the dog from the situation if they persist or increase. It also says dogs can quickly become overheated and that stress and anxiety can add to this. Avanti’s tips say public transport can be hot for pets even in winter, and suggest bringing water and poo bags.

    The bottom line

    National Rail’s pet page and its July 2026 Conditions of Travel both allow up to two animals free, bar animals from seats, and make leads or carriers part of travel with a dog, but they word those points differently. Train companies can set their own conditions, and Avanti and TfW do so in places. The Conditions say a company’s special conditions are shown on its website, so the page of the company being travelled with is the place to check before the journey.

    Sources

    • Train Travel with Pets, National Rail, page undated, read 1 November 2026 (nationalrail.co.uk)
    • National Rail Conditions of Travel from 30th July 2026, section 24, National Rail, read 1 November 2026 (assets.nationalrail.co.uk)
    • Train Travel With Pets, Avanti West Coast, page last updated 10 June 2026, read 1 November 2026 (avantiwestcoast.co.uk)
    • On board FAQ, Transport for Wales, page undated, read 1 November 2026 (tfw.wales)
    • Taking dogs on trains, Blue Cross, page published 20 March 2019, read 1 November 2026 (bluecross.org.uk)
  • Found a Stray Dog or Cat? What GOV.UK, the Environmental Protection Act 1990, Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Cats Protection Say About Reporting, Scanning and Keeping

    Found a Stray Dog or Cat? What GOV.UK, the Environmental Protection Act 1990, Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Cats Protection Say About Reporting, Scanning and Keeping

    A dog wandering alone, or a cat that keeps turning up in the garden, may be lost, abandoned or simply out exploring. This guide follows what GOV.UK, the Environmental Protection Act 1990 as shown on legislation.gov.uk, Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Cats Protection say about what a finder should do. All were read on 31 October 2026, and the charity and GOV.UK pages are undated. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice. The dog rules below are for England and Wales unless Scotland is named.

    First, danger, injury or aggression

    The RSPCA says that if a dog appears sick or injured the finder should contact a local vet or animal centre, that emergency services are the contact if a dog is in imminent danger or in a dangerous location, and that a finder should never put themselves in danger. It also says to stay clear of a dog showing aggressive behaviour and to contact the local dog warden. Cats Protection says a cat in immediate danger, such as on a road, can be moved to safety if the finder is aware of their surroundings, and that a sick or injured cat should go to a local vet, phoning ahead. Cats Protection also says vets provide emergency treatment for sick or injured animals at no cost to the finder.

    A dog that looks like a stray

    Dogs Trust and the RSPCA both caution that the dog may not be a stray at all, but a pet that has wandered from its family. Dogs Trust says to check the collar for a tag if it is safe, and otherwise to contact the dog warden at the local authority, who will ensure the microchip is scanned. The RSPCA says to approach only if the dog is calm.

    For England and Wales, GOV.UK says that a finder who knows the owner must return the dog to them, and one who cannot contact the owner must report the dog to the council. The Act’s England and Wales version says the finder must forthwith either return the dog to its owner or take it to the officer of the local authority for the area where it was found, and inform that officer where the dog was found.

    Keeping the dog: three wordings

    The sources do not use the same words, so each is reported as written:

    • GOV.UK says a finder who wants to keep the dog should tell the council, that the finder may be allowed to keep it if the owner cannot be found, and that the council will probably check suitability first.
    • The Act, in the England and Wales version, says a finder who wants to keep the dog must inform the council officer and give a name and address, and that a finder who keeps a dog under the section must keep it for not less than one month. In Scotland, the Act says a person who keeps a dog under the section for two months without it being claimed becomes its owner.
    • Dogs Trust says that a finder who takes the dog home temporarily must by law tell the dog warden, that the finder is then obliged by law to keep the dog for 28 days, and that adopting means waiting a seven-day period (five days in Northern Ireland). It adds that legal ownership is not transferred in the meantime. The RSPCA says it is illegal to keep a stray dog and that a finder who wants to rehome one should leave details with the warden.

    For handing a dog back, Dogs Trust suggests meeting the owner in a safe location such as a public place and taking a friend and a phone. Local council arrangements can differ.

    Who scans, and who takes the dog in

    The RSPCA lists contacting a local vet to scan for a microchip and reporting the dog to local rescue centres. It also says it cannot respond to calls about healthy stray dogs, and that stray dogs are the responsibility of the local authority’s dog warden. Dogs Trust says the warden ensures the scan, and that local vets and rehoming organisations cannot take strays directly from the public except in certain emergency situations.

    A cat that looks like a stray

    The legal pages read concern dogs. Cats Protection’s pages describe a different path. For a cat that seems healthy, it says to get the cat scanned for a microchip at a local vet, or to contact a local Cats Protection or other local animal welfare organisation if the cat cannot be transported. It says to avoid feeding the cat unless it is particularly underweight, because feeding may keep it coming back and some cats are on a special diet. It also suggests telling the local community with a post or poster, and fitting a paper collar with the finder’s contact details.

    For a suspected feral cat, which Cats Protection describes as not socialised to humans, it says not to approach or handle the cat but to contact a local organisation.

    Keeping a cat that has no owner

    Cats Protection says a finder should first try to find the owner and can offer shelter meanwhile. Once the finder is sure there is no owner, the cat can be adopted, and it suggests microchipping.

    The bottom line

    For a dog in England or Wales, the sources agree on one point: report it to the council. GOV.UK and the Act both put that duty on the finder. They differ on what keeping the dog involves, with the Act saying one month, Dogs Trust 28 days and the RSPCA calling it illegal. For a cat, Cats Protection points to a vet scan, local community notices and a local welfare organisation, and none of the pages read describes a council step. Sick, injured or endangered animals go to a vet or emergency services first, according to the RSPCA and Cats Protection.

    Sources

    • Report a stray dog, GOV.UK, page undated, read 31 October 2026 (gov.uk)
    • Environmental Protection Act 1990, section 150, up to date to 31 October 2026 per the page, read 31 October 2026 (legislation.gov.uk)
    • What do I do if I’ve found a stray dog?, Dogs Trust, page undated, read 31 October 2026 (dogstrust.org.uk)
    • Found a lost or stray dog?, RSPCA, page undated, read 31 October 2026 (rspca.org.uk)
    • Found a cat? Here’s what to do, Cats Protection, page undated, read 31 October 2026 (cats.org.uk)
  • Bringing a Kitten Home: The Settling-In Room, Scent Swapping and the First Days, According to Cats Protection, Blue Cross and PDSA

    A kitten’s first home is a single room. Cats Protection, Blue Cross and PDSA all describe starting a new kitten in one or two rooms and widening its world only as it gains confidence. Cats Protection also points out that cats can live for 15 to 20 years, so the first days are the start of a long commitment. This guide follows the order in which things happen: preparing the room, collection day, the first days and the first steps beyond the door. It is general welfare information; a vet is the person to ask about health questions. See also this site’s guides to introducing a new pet and setting up litter trays.

    Days before: preparing the settling-in room

    Cats Protection says to set up a quiet, escape-proof sanctuary room before collecting the kitten: a small room where the door can be closed, away from busy or noisy parts of the home. Blue Cross similarly advises one quiet room that is big enough to explore without feeling overwhelming, and says it helps house training, because once the litter tray habit is strong the kitten will seek it out when it has the run of the home.

    Cats Protection lists what the room should contain: a bed, food and water bowls placed apart from each other, at least one litter tray away from food and water, several hiding places, a safe high spot, a scratching post, toys and space to play. Blue Cross adds that the high spot gives a worried kitten somewhere to watch from a safe distance, and says to check that shelves are not too high and that there is an easy way up and down.

    The room and the rest of the home also need checking. Cats Protection says kittens can squeeze into very small spaces, so gaps behind cupboards, furniture and kitchen appliances should be blocked, washing machines and tumble dryers kept closed, toxic plants removed (lilies are described as highly toxic to cats) and medicines and cleaning products locked away. Blue Cross adds tidying trailing wires and putting small items out of sight.

    Scent swapping

    Cats Protection suggests that, a few days before collection, the owner asks whether a blanket or item of clothing that smells of them can be left with the kitten, and that a small cloth smelling of the kitten is rubbed gently over surfaces in the room before it arrives. Blue Cross and PDSA also suggest asking the breeder or rehoming centre for a blanket or towel that smells of the kitten’s previous home so that it has familiar smells in its first days.

    Collection day

    Cats Protection recommends a sturdy, well-ventilated carrier, secured with a seatbelt if travelling by car. Blue Cross says to check before leaving that windows and doors to the outside are closed and nooks and crannies blocked off. On arrival, Cats Protection says to take the kitten straight to its room, place the carrier there, open the door and let the kitten come out in its own time, without pulling it out or forcing it to interact. Some kittens adapt quickly, it adds, while others may take a few weeks to feel settled and safe.

    The first days

    Cats Protection’s list for the first hours and days is short and calm:

    • let the kitten approach rather than picking it up straight away;
    • keep handling gentle and brief, and allow hiding when the kitten wants to;
    • keep noise and visitors to a minimum, and avoid sudden movements;
    • keep the routine consistent and allow plenty of time to sleep.

    Blue Cross suggests sitting quietly in the room and talking so the kitten hears the owner’s voice, and never pulling it out of a space or bed if it hides. PDSA says to keep feeding at the same time each day, to use the same food and litter as the breeder or shelter at first and change them gradually, and to let the kitten explore at its own pace, staying around but letting it come to the owner. Blue Cross also advises booking a vet check a few days after the kitten comes home, and PDSA says to get one soon after.

    Opening the door a little wider

    As the kitten becomes used to its room, Blue Cross says it can start exploring other rooms, eventually the whole house once it is confident. Cats Protection gives guidance for the household: children should be taught to be gentle, kittens should be left alone when sleeping, eating, hiding or using the litter tray, and children should never chase a kitten. Introductions to another cat should be done very slowly, starting with swapping scent items, with separate food bowls, water bowls, litter trays and beds for each cat.

    Outdoor access comes later. Cats Protection says a kitten should be fully settled, fully vaccinated, neutered and microchipped before going outside, and that in England microchipping is compulsory for all owned cats over 20 weeks old. Blue Cross says kittens need to be at least five months old before exploring the outdoors. The step-by-step version is in the guide to cat collars, cat flaps and first trips outside.

    Two quick questions

    How old should a kitten be when it comes home?

    Blue Cross says at least eight weeks old. Cats Protection says a kitten raised with its mother should stay with her until at least eight weeks.

    Where do the bowls and litter tray go?

    Cats Protection says food and water bowls should be placed apart from each other, with the litter tray away from both. Blue Cross says cats prefer to eat and drink in separate locations.

    The bottom line

    All three charities describe the same pattern for a new kitten: a quiet room prepared in advance, a familiar-smelling blanket, a carrier opened in the room on arrival, then a calm, predictable routine in which the kitten sets the pace. Cats Protection says some kittens settle quickly and others take a few weeks.

    Sources

    • Bringing a new kitten home (cats.org.uk)
    • Bringing your new kitten home (bluecross.org.uk)
    • How can I prepare for a new kitten? (pdsa.org.uk)
  • Teaching a Dog to Come Back When Called: Recall Training From Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Blue Cross

    Picture a dog let off the lead in an open space just as a squirrel bolts across the path. This is an illustration, not a real case, but Dogs Trust names a squirrel or another dog as the kind of thing that can seem more exciting than coming back. Most dogs love a run off the lead, the charity says, and before letting a dog loose an owner needs to be confident that it will always come back when called, whatever is going on around it. This guide brings together the recall advice of Dogs Trust, the RSPCA and Blue Cross. It is general welfare information and not a substitute for a qualified trainer or behaviourist; see this site’s guide to trainers, instructors and behaviourists.

    Why the dog may choose the squirrel

    Dogs Trust says that when a dog is let off the lead, a whole world of choice opens up, and the dog may also be unsure that its owner wants it to return. The charity’s answer is to teach the dog that coming back is always a good thing, with tasty snacks, a fuss or whatever reward the dog likes best. The RSPCA puts the same idea plainly: to teach a dog to come back, the owner must learn to be more exciting than the rest of the world.

    Stage one: a name, a cue and a reward

    Dogs Trust starts with the dog’s name, so the owner can get its attention before adding a recall cue. The cue can be a short word such as “come” or “here”, or a whistle, with a visual cue such as open arms. Everyone in the household should use the same word and movement, and Blue Cross likewise says the choice of cue is up to the owner but should be kept consistent.

    Practice starts somewhere easy. Dogs Trust suggests indoors, in the garden or in another enclosed space with tasty treats to hand: get the dog’s attention, give the cue, take a step away and reward the dog with praise and a treat when it arrives. The RSPCA offers a fun game with a toy as an alternative incentive. Both the RSPCA and Blue Cross mention gently holding the collar as the dog arrives, and Blue Cross explains that an owner will often need to hold the collar, for example to attach a lead.

    Stage two: distance, distractions and the long line

    Once recall is working, Dogs Trust says to increase distance and distractions gradually, eventually leaving the garden, with a long line attached to the dog’s harness to keep it safe during training. The RSPCA says long training leads allow some freedom without complete free range, and should be used outdoors once the dog is consistently coming when called around the house and garden. Blue Cross adds two safety points: a longer lead or training line should only be used well away from roads, and the dog should wear a harness with anything longer than a walking lead, as it may otherwise injure its neck. For lead choices, see the guide to dog harnesses and collars.

    When the dog does not come

    Dogs Trust says that if the dog ignores the cue, the owner should stay calm, because getting angry or shouting will make the dog not want to come back. The owner can gently guide the dog in with the long line, never pulling the dog towards them, or go and collect it. Blue Cross says that if a dog does not return the first time, more training is needed in that situation, so the owner should go back to the point at which the dog was coming back reliably, and avoid telling the dog off.

    Dogs Trust names busy roads, other dogs, farmed animals and dog thieves among the dangers of a dog running around unsupervised. A dog that keeps darting off should stay on a long lead attached to a harness and only be let off in secure areas.

    Habits that undo recall

    • Repeating the cue. Dogs Trust says to leave at least five seconds before calling again, and not to call again if the dog is unlikely to return, as this could teach that not coming back is acceptable.
    • Calling only to end the fun. The RSPCA says a dog called only to be put back on the lead will soon make the association and be reluctant to come back. Blue Cross says the dog will learn that the cue signals the end of free time, and suggests calling it for a fun game or feeding it now and again during a walk.
    • Calling and then scolding. The RSPCA says to call only when the owner is going to praise the dog, because a dog that is called and then told off will be less likely to come back next time.

    Why some dogs find it harder, and when to ask for help

    Blue Cross says some dogs need less motivation than others to come back, often down to breed type: dogs bred to work closely with people, such as gundogs or herding types, seem to keep more of an eye on their owners, while those bred to be more independent, such as terriers or hounds, tend to be more interested in sounds and smells. Dogs Trust says that if training is not improving, the owner may wish to contact a qualified trainer or behaviourist, and it runs a free Behaviour Support Line. It also says a dog should wear a collar and ID tag in public at all times, with microchip details kept up to date, and that this is law in the UK.

    The bottom line

    The three charities describe recall as something taught in stages: a name and cue, rewards that make coming back worth it, then distance and distractions on a long line away from roads. Dogs Trust says to let a dog off the lead in open spaces only when the owner is confident it will come back when called.

    Sources

    • How to train your dog to come back when called (dogstrust.org.uk)
    • Train your dog to come when called (rspca.org.uk)
    • Dog recall training (bluecross.org.uk)
  • Keeping Chinchillas: What the RSPCA, PDSA and Blue Cross Say About Lifespan, Company, Cool Housing, Dust Baths and Hay

    Chinchillas are quiet, clean and attractive, and they are also a long commitment with demanding housing needs. The RSPCA says they can live for 10 to 20 years, are shy and flighty, and do not enjoy being stroked or handled. This guide summarises the RSPCA’s chinchilla pages, with enclosure advice from PDSA and Blue Cross, whose figures differ from each other. It is general welfare information, not veterinary advice; a vet should be asked about any change in eating, droppings or behaviour. For other small species, see this site’s guides to hamsters, gerbils and guinea pigs.

    Company, handling and who they suit

    The RSPCA explains that in the wild chinchillas live in colonies of more than 100 animals, so they must not be kept singly as pets. It recommends housing them with one or more friendly chinchillas and giving them chances to interact with friendly people. Blue Cross agrees that chinchillas are not happy alone and that at least two should be kept, and suggests introducing new companions gradually, with cages side by side about 10cm apart so they can smell each other before meeting.

    Handling is limited. The RSPCA says chinchillas can learn to enjoy familiar people and being petted but tend not to enjoy being picked up and often struggle. It says they are more appropriate for adults than children, and best for owners who enjoy watching animals. They are prey animals with sensitive hearing, easily startled by sudden loud sounds, and the RSPCA warns against shouting at or punishing them. It also notes that chinchillas can lose large patches of fur, called fur slip, as a defence mechanism, which can also occur in captivity because of inappropriate handling.

    Housing: where the sources differ

    The RSPCA says the home must be large and secure, such as a secure room or large metal mesh cage, with solid flooring such as wood in addition to mesh, because long periods on wire can damage feet. It asks for lots of horizontal and vertical space to run and jump, branches and solid platforms with no uninterrupted heights greater than 60cm, hay-filled nest boxes and hiding places, and gnawing toys of wood, rope, cardboard and pumice rather than plastic. It adds that experts are still learning how best to care for chinchillas and that there is no single perfect way provided their needs are met.

    The charities give different size guidance. PDSA says cages often are not big enough and recommends a large indoor enclosure or a room of their own; if a cage is used, it says it should be at least 2 metres high, 2 metres wide and 1 metre deep. Blue Cross gives a minimum cage size of 90cm by 60cm by 120cm for a pair or trio. The practical reading is that these are floors, not ceilings, and bigger is better, with a safe exercise area outside the cage where space is limited.

    For temperature, the RSPCA says to keep chinchillas indoors in well-ventilated, dry, draught-free housing, ideally at 10 to 18 degrees Celsius, because they can become ill in hot, wet, humid or draughty conditions. PDSA gives 10 to 15 degrees and says temperatures over 30 degrees can be deadly, and Blue Cross says a cage should never sit in a sunny window. The RSPCA also says to keep chinchillas quiet and away from dogs, cats, ferrets and other pets. For bedding, it recommends good-quality dust-free hay and warns against cotton wool and other fluffy bedding that separates into strands. PDSA adds that shredded newspaper should not be used because the ink can be toxic.

    Dust baths and daily rhythm

    The RSPCA says each day chinchillas should be given a shallow tray of clean fine sand or “chinchilla dust” to bathe in, which keeps the fur in good condition, and that the tray should be removed or sieved after use. Chinchillas are most active in the evening and at night and need to sleep undisturbed in the day. The RSPCA says they need 12 hours of darkness. PDSA suggests cleaning in the evening when they are naturally active, and keeping back a handful of clean used bedding so the enclosure keeps a familiar smell.

    Diet

    The RSPCA says chinchillas’ digestive systems need hay and grass, and that their teeth grow continuously and are worn down by eating grass and hay or grass-based chinchilla pellets; the wrong diet can lead to serious dental disease. Good-quality hay should make up most of the diet and always be available. Pellets are a small daily addition, and treats are limited to small amounts of dried fruit and root vegetables, with nuts and seeds avoided because they are high in fat. Water comes from a bottle checked twice a day. The diet must never be changed suddenly. Chinchillas produce hard, dry droppings and softer ones that they eat, which are an essential part of the diet. If eating or drinking changes, or droppings become fewer, smaller or stop, the RSPCA says to talk to a vet straight away.

    FAQs

    Can one chinchilla be kept alone?

    The RSPCA says chinchillas must not be kept singly, because they live in large colonies in the wild. Blue Cross says to keep at least two.

    Are chinchillas good pets for children?

    The RSPCA says they are more appropriate for adults, because they are shy, flighty and do not enjoy being handled.

    The bottom line

    Chinchillas need a 10 to 20 year commitment, company of their own kind, a large, cool, quiet and secure home with solid flooring, safe chewing items, a daily dust bath and a diet built on hay. Advice on exact cage size and temperature varies between the RSPCA, PDSA and Blue Cross, so the larger and cooler end of each range, plus a vet’s view, is the safer guide.

    Sources

    • Chinchillas, overview and facts (rspca.org.uk)
    • Creating a good home for chinchillas (rspca.org.uk)
    • Chinchilla behaviour (rspca.org.uk)
    • What to feed chinchillas (rspca.org.uk)
    • The ideal home for chinchillas (pdsa.org.uk)
    • Chinchilla care guide (bluecross.org.uk)
  • Puppy Mouthing, Biting and Chewing: What Dogs Trust and PDSA Say About Teething, Redirection, Safe Chews and When to Ask for Help

    Needle-sharp teeth on hands and ankles and a chewed shoe are standard puppy experiences. Dogs Trust describes puppy mouthing as completely natural and says most puppies grow out of it, while PDSA stresses that chewing is part of being a dog. Both charities say the solution is redirection and meeting the puppy’s needs, not punishment. This guide summarises Dogs Trust’s guidance on mouthing, nipping and biting and PDSA’s guidance on training dogs not to chew. It is general welfare information, not veterinary or behaviour advice. It complements this site’s guides to positive reinforcement training and to toilet training a puppy.

    Why puppies mouth and chew

    Dogs Trust says puppies explore and play with their mouths, and that mouthing is often linked to overexcitement, frustration and pain. Teething is one cause. Baby teeth appear at about four weeks and begin to fall out at about 12 weeks, gums can be sore and sensitive, and chewing can be soothing. Adult teeth usually all come through by about seven months, though this varies with size and other factors, and signs such as drooling or finding lost teeth are normal.

    PDSA adds other reasons dogs chew: boredom, learned attention seeking, distress or frustration, and medical causes. It calls it a myth that dogs chew to annoy or out of spite, saying they just need to chew something and may lack safe options. A change in chewing habits is a reason to visit a vet. Dogs Trust likewise says sudden or increased biting or mouthing can be linked to pain or illness, and that overtired puppies, which need 18 to 20 hours of sleep a day, often show mouthing and “zoomies”.

    What to do in the moment

    Dogs Trust gives a four-step response when a puppy puts its teeth on a person:

    1. stay still, and drop any toy or put it out of sight;
    2. if mouthing continues, turn away and cross the arms, withdrawing attention;
    3. if that fails, move away, using a door or stair gate if the puppy follows and mouths at feet or clothes; and
    4. once the puppy is calm, reward it by restarting the game, picking up the toy, scattering treats or offering a gentle fuss.

    It adds that the puppy will learn that mouthing means the fun ends, and that everyone in the household should follow the same rules, because consistency helps learning. It advises against pulling hands, arms, legs or clothing away quickly, because that can turn the behaviour into a game, and against punishment such as raised voices or pushing the dog down, which can increase frustration and fear. The charity also recommends spotting the signs that a puppy is about to play, such as bouncing, pouncing or batting with paws, and offering a suitable toy first. It adds that rough games or letting a puppy mouth hands teach it that mouthing is acceptable.

    Safe chews and toys

    PDSA says a dog caught chewing something it should not should not be punished, since punishment can make it scared and teach it to chew when no one is around. Instead, distract it with a safe toy and praise it for chewing the toy. PDSA gives these criteria for a safe chew toy:

    • designed for chewing, since soft toys, tug ropes, tennis balls and frisbees are for supervised play only;
    • soft enough to indent with a fingernail, because anything harder risks fractured teeth or bleeding gums;
    • bigger than the dog’s throat, so the whole toy cannot fit in the mouth; and
    • safe if pieces are accidentally swallowed.

    It advises against rawhide, which can splinter and potentially hurt a dog. Dogs Trust suggests rotating three or four toys at a time so they seem new, replacing damaged ones so they do not cause a blockage if swallowed, and offering a stuffed feeder, licking mat or long-lasting chew after exciting events to encourage calming behaviour. Items that could harm a dog, including poisons, should be kept out of reach, and Dogs Trust says to seek veterinary advice immediately if a dog has swallowed a non-food item or chewed anything that may be toxic.

    Meeting the puppy’s other needs, and when to get help

    Both charities link mouthing and chewing to unmet needs. Dogs Trust recommends short, ten-minute activities through the day, a routine with downtime after walks, play and training, and enough sleep. PDSA recommends daily exercise and playtime, and says not to regularly leave a dog alone for more than four hours, with some dogs unable to manage even that.

    Dogs Trust says that when teething finishes, at around seven months, mouthing is typically much reduced, but there is no magic age. It says a puppy that mouths is different from a dog that bites aggressively, which usually shows tense body language, bared teeth and often growling, and that biting at any age can signal a dog that is worried or overwhelmed. If biting does not improve, if fear or frustration seems to be the cause, or if it improves and then returns, the advice is to contact its free Behaviour Support Line or a vet; PDSA suggests an accredited behaviourist for persistent chewing.

    FAQs

    Should a puppy be told off for biting?

    No. Dogs Trust says avoid punishment, because raised voices or pushing the dog down can increase frustration and fear and worsen the behaviour.

    Is mouthing always teething?

    No. Dogs Trust lists over-excitement, play, fear, frustration, tiredness and pain as other causes, and advises a vet check for sudden or increased biting.

    The bottom line

    For puppies, Dogs Trust and PDSA agree on a calm, consistent approach: redirect mouths onto suitable toys, withdraw attention when teeth touch skin, avoid punishment, provide chews that pass PDSA’s fingernail and throat-size tests, and meet the puppy’s needs for exercise, play and sleep. Teething typically ends around seven months. Persistent or worsening biting, signs of fear or a sudden change in behaviour call for a vet or a qualified behaviourist.

    Sources

    • Mouthing, nipping and puppy biting: causes and how to stop it safely (dogstrust.org.uk)
    • How to train my dog not to chew things (pdsa.org.uk)
    • Destructive behaviour in dogs: how to stop it (dogstrust.org.uk)